It only looks like I need to wash my feet, but it is actually a bruise on my right foot brought on by a stress fracture. The swelling was enough this morning that I could barely get my sandal on. I did not try my shoes.
And, yes, I am aware that I have finger toes, and that there is a massive gap where another toe could fit in.
What does this all mean? I am seeking further advice from a podiatrist. I have to be out of this hotel by noon tomorrow so things could happen quickly.
“Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.” – Ferris Bueller.
Stick with me my blog reading friends, we have a change of plans. Two to four weeks of little walking or it will be a couple of months in a boot. I choose to rest, and what better place to rest than the Irish countryside. I’ll be there for three to four weeks, then we’ll see what’s next. Heck, I already have an invitation from friends to meet them in Vienna and I’m definitely still planning on Norway. Regardless of the aches and pains, life is very good. Love living it.
Tomorrow is mostly travel: hotel to bus stop (car), Los Arcos to Logroño (bus), Logroño to Madrid (bus… about 4.5 hours), and Uber to hotel. The flight to Dublin leaves Saturday morning.
The last five miles of the walk for today comes with a warning on the map: From here to Los Arcos there is hardly any shade. Remember this especially in summertime. No water fountains or any other service available. The high for today is only supposed to be 49 with a 70% chance of rain. As long as the blister doesn’t give me fits, it should be fine.
I don’t think I got one drop of rain today. It was a beautiful day and was able to take my jacket off for a while. The wind kick back up again and it got cool though. I’m now in Los Arcos.
I looked at that pointy little mountain way off in the distance, and thought to myself, “Self, I bet they make you climb it.” Well, we did not have to climb it, but it was close. 
The road was beautiful today.
I’m not sure what the crop is, but there are fields of these yellow flowers. They’re beautiful.
And then I came across these purple trees. They were only in one spot.
My feet need to rest, so I will be taking tomorrow off. I’ve got in around 54 miles in three days so I’m feeling pretty good about that. I actually built in two days off each week and I’m ready. This is a physically challenging experience.
Onacompletely different subject, I’ve been thinking about “want.” Actually, it was focused and intense thinking as I walked this morning. It seems that want is at the heart of so much sin and pain in our own lives. Those who have, want more. Those who don’t, want something. We are always wanting. It definitely ties into, “Thou shall not covet.” When we want something or many things, we lose our peace. We become so focused on IT, that we lose sight of all that we truly have. Those things that are most important. I was trying to figure out how to rid myself of want. It also plays back to that Margaret Atwood quote from a couple of days ago. When there is want/desire, there really is no peace. I’ve used it in a sermon before, and somewhere in a closet, I still have the album—The The (yeah, that’s the band name), True Happiness This Way Lies. Or, maybe, I just need to get out of my head and go visit with some other pilgrims.
Waking up this morning I find out there’s less to be concerned about. I’ve only been at it for about a week now, but I’m finding myself very much in a routine. I sleep, I have breakfast, I do the final pack on my bag, I walk, I pray, I drink lots of water, I eat when I’m hungry, I find my room, I get things ready for the next day, and I sleep. That really does sum it up. I know that I always compare things to praying the rosary. Once you figure out the mechanics of it… The Lord prayer, the Hail Mary, the Fatima prayer, etc.… once you figure out all those other things, then you are able to actually pray. It might be the same with this walk. I wonder what is next? As our minds begin to pray more deeply with the rosary, what will we learn/pray/discover/etc. as we walk ?
My opportunity to pray the rosary today was amazing. It was in the ruins of a monastery. That was an existence almost 900 years ago. The brothers were there. I could feel their prayers. I had to make myself get up and move. I would still be sitting there otherwise.
Today was really all about the walk. I think my mental self and my physical self are beginning to meet in a particular place. I think that place will allow me to move forward, but it is a challenge. I have walked more than 17 miles today, which is more than anything I’ve ever walked before. The interesting thing is, I walked that many miles yesterday as well. At some point, the body says, I’m tired!
Later…My feet hurt and there were times when I wondered what the hell I have gotten myself into.
There were still flowers along the way. I think I missed this one by a day or two, but it was still pretty.
I have joined the ranks of the blistered, and it is a crowd pleaser. As much as we do to take care of our feet, it was inevitable. All shall be well. Note to self: don’t take any detours.
This one is for my cat. I’m pretty sure The Queen would appreciate it. Len, don’t take it personal.  She really is a bitch. 
While you are here… Go into the restaurant. Sit in the bar. You will not understand anything that is being said, but it is passionate and there is life. Much life—movie life. Old men that are discussing Catch 22 or whether or not Israel should retaliate against Iran. Who is to say? The beer flows and there are smiles and they are happy. What more could a person want?…. With so many men, I think a few wives would be appreciated.
I am still considering my Facebook post from a couple of days ago. I shall renew it here.
OK, I know I put that somewhere!
Today, the best moment or timeframe was when I was praying my rosary at the monastery that had been built around 1000 years ago. There were red poppies, growing all around, and I could imagine each of them being one of those monks that had lived and prayed in that place. I kept trying to figure out where the sanctuary was located. It was hard to discern. However, you really could feel them all around you. They were there. When you prayed, you knew you were praying with them. It felt as though they were thankful to have someone new praying with them. I was glad that they chose me today.
The photo below is the best I could do today. It would have required me to climb multiple steps to get you a better picture. I was not up for it. Hopefully this one will work.
Finally, there is a story about the water near this place.…
Take care not to drink the water here, neither yourself nor your horse, for it is a deadly river! On the way to Santiago we came across two Navarrese sitting by the bank, sharpening the knives they used to flay pilgrims’ horses which had drunk the water and died. We asked them fi the water was fit to drink, and they lyingly replied that it was, whereupon we gave it to our horses to drink. Two of them dropped dead at once and the Navarrese flayed them there and then.
In other words, leave your pony at home!
I could be rambling tonight. Sorry. It is 9:12 PM and I need to get ready for tomorrow. I pray you are well.
Did I mention the bells? I don’t know. Oh, well.
I’m too tired to read back over this one to see if there are typos. You can point them out and I will try and correct them, otherwise… Life is better with typos.
17.6 miles/35,002 steps.
410.38 miles to Santiago. I think I will break the 400 mile barrier tomorrow. Tell that to my feet and they may come and kick you! 
All that remains of this 12th century monastery are a few cut stones, and I had to walk an extra mile to get to it, but… it was as though I were surrounded by these monks from 900 years ago and we were praying as one. A beautiful place.
Today’s walk will be the longest so far. Officially 14.7 miles. For the life of me, I can’t figure out why someone would put a mountain in the middle of it, but there it is–about a 1200 foot climb. I thought of the scripture that said that we could say to the mountain be uprooted and planted in the sea; however, knowing that people have been walking this way for over 1000 years I suspect that many have prayed those exact same words before me. Apparently it is God’s will that we climb… and so we climb. Therefore, seeing as how I will be winded by the time I reach the top, I’ll save my breath for a different prayer.
It is not intentional, but we all have a way of grouping up as we walk along. The first picture is looking back towards Pamplona, and the other one is looking forward towards that silly mountain. The silly mountain wasn’t too bad and the reward at the end was absolutely brilliant.
From here we climbed. It’s funny that you will pass and then be passed by the same people all along. Just depending on when you take a break or how much oxygen you need. (I can’t believe that there are people stopping to take smoke breaks! I think that would just about kill me.)
On the way up, I stopped in a small church in Zariquiegui for a few minutes—Iglesia San Andrés— and received a stamp, and was also given an olive leaf.
I only need one stamp a day, so this one will be it.
At the top we reached perhaps one of the most iconic scenes of the Camino de Santiago.
The wind was absolutely screaming up there. I have my hat crammed down on my head just so that it will not end up somewhere in the Mediterranean sea which is several hundred miles away. Looking west, the horizon just kept going.
Regarding the statues, from Jean Mitchell-Leham’s book The Lore of the Camino de Santiago: A Literary Pilgrimage: The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession. Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims. Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.
After about a total of 15 miles I finally entered town. I’m not sure who the city architects were but this is an interesting place. The more modern portion has wide streets and so on, but the older part of town where I am staying is quite unique. I’m guessing it was designed to assist in the event of an invasion.
More pictures of churches. This is where I stopped. Pray my rosary today. It was stunning. Very peaceful.
I thought I’d treat myself to a nice dinner. Ordered the Argentinian steak—A) these folks need to order some Oklahoma beef OR B) that cow was old when Charlemange was raiding the countryside—I don’t think the Argentinians would have claimed it OR C) chef needs to retake the cooking steak class.
After all that, I am in my room. Oh… My room. It is small quite nice. I’m getting used to sleeping on twin beds again. I haven’t rolled out once. And after walking umpteen miles… Who even notices?
Me lying in that twin bed dictating this post. A little too pooped even to sit up at the moment.
Pamplona is definitely a city. All day and all night you hear the sounds of horns and sirens and people. I’m looking forward to the day here, but I’m also looking forward to getting back into the country and the quieter places.
This morning’s alarm clock was brought to you by the guy walking down the street yelling at the top of his lungs. That’s OK. It was almost time to get up.
I made a quick coffee and I had a few cookies before heading off for mass. There were not many people out this early. The air was cool. I found the church pretty quick, so I stopped in and had a café con Leche and a pastry. Then I made my way back up to the church.
from the plaque out front: CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARÍA LA REAL — Pamplona Cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries over the remains of a Romanesque church. The neoclassical façade from 1799 is by Ventura Rodríguez and the interior is French Gothic.
It was a full sung, Latin mass. I didn’t understand a word but the bells helped. The sermon lasted about five minutes, and even though I couldn’t understand it, the dean of the cathedral seemed quite passionate.
Located in the center of the cathedral is The Royal Mausoleum with the death statues of Carlos III el Noble and his wife Leonor de Trastamara, Monarchs of Navarre. This sculpture is a unique work of European XVth century sculpture and was carried out between 1413 and 1419 by Jehan Lome de Tournai and his craftsmen.
For those back home in Oklahoma, I found the four Evangelist and identified our favorite.
Coming out of the church, and to the south a bit, you arrive at the Townhall of Pamplona. You can follow this link to read all about the symbolism in the work.
After all that, I was ready for another café con Leche. I found a beautiful little café where I also ordered a baked scallop. I can highly recommend this tasty little treat.
I have less than 3 miles on my feet this morning, but they are already asking to be put back up again, so I headed back to the hotel to find a place to do some laundry. I started to do it myself when the gentleman cleaning the rooms interrupted me and said I could not do that because they were washing the sheets and all of that for the hotel. He said for 5€ he would do it for me and have it to my room by 10 o’clock tonight. I took him up on that offer. I’ll go back out later today, but for now I’m just going to enjoy the quiet.
I made it back out today and just wandered around a bit. I came across a beautiful garden. I had a glass of wine and some tasty little treat that I have no idea what was. If I see something that I’ve never tried before, I’ll give it a day in court. I have not been disappointed yet.
Afterward, I walked until I found a church that was open and stopped to pray my rosary. I timed it so that I would be praying while my church in Oklahoma was celebrating the mass. I think it worked out.
Tomorrow will be my longest walking day yet. Almost 15 miles. I’m going to rest my toes for a bit now and then try and get a good night’s sleep. The weather is supposed to be much cooler tomorrow and probably raining. In my opinion, that makes for good walking weather.
5.2 miles/10,023 steps. I’m not a step closer to Santiago than I was at this time yesterday. The beautiful thing, this is not a race.
Basílica de la Trinidad de Arte. I actually stopped about an hour before I arrived at my final location. This church was built in the 12th century, although it has been renovated extensively since then. It’s quite small but beautiful. It was also about 20° cooler in there than it was outside.
The picture is not mine, but there is a bridge that crosses the river right there at the church.
I think it’s from all the downhill walking yesterday, but it feels like someone has inserted hot coals into each of my calves. Stretch. Stretch. Stretch. All shall be well. 
I made it to the top of the most recent hill. There are plenty of them here. As I started my way down I came across all these purple flowers. It struck me that Santiago is still over 450 miles away and that it’s OK to stop and smell the flowers for just a moment. It will not delay my arrival at all.
I have a new found taste for Coca-Cola. After putting in 10 miles it is the most delicious thing on the planet. As I sat there, drinking my ice cold Coca-Cola and visiting with a girl from Canada, who has a love of hockey, I looked over and there was a lady who is walking the Camino with her baby. The girl from Canada and I both felt rather ashamed at being tired. The baby was no more than three or four months old, and the momma was carrying the baby all along the way. I got nothing.
I just saw a sign that said Pamplona is about 8.3 km/5 miles. I said to myself, “Self, that is less than three times around Crosslin Park.” I’ve got to keep moving.
I don’t know how well this will come out, but it is the valley before Pamplona. It is a panoramic shot. Go ahead and say it, “Gorgeous!”
Soon afterward, I came to the church where I said my rosary for today. It was so nice and cool inside. Probably no more than about 40 people could have fit. I’m not quite sure how I got this shot but I thought it came out beautiful.
I have arrived at my hotel in Pamplona. It is the Aloha Hostel. I’m not sure that Aloha is a Spanish word. And, yes, if you thought of the movie, Hostel, when you read the name… So did I!
Now, please do not judge me. I was hungry, I was tired, and I did not want to figure out anything else. It’s also right next-door to my hotel. I had a Pepsi to go with it only because they did not serve Coca-Cola. I ordered the Alabama. When I said, “Alabama,” the girl behind the counter, looked at me and wondered what language I was speaking. I wanted to teach her how to say it properly, maybe the way Boudreaux would have said it, but I just kept my mouth shut and sat down and drank my Pepsi. The next time you’re in Pamplona I can recommend this pizza. I thought all those little yellow things were slices of garlic, but it turns out it was corn. Never had corn on a pizza before. I don’t think that’s American. 🤪
I am now in my room with my shoes and socks off and my pajamas on. It’s only 5:45 PM but I have no intentions of going anywhere else today. I’ve got my window open so I can hear the city below and they can have a beautiful Saturday night, and I will sit here and listen to them enjoying it. Tomorrow I plan on exploring the city. I’ve seen the top of the church here in town and it is amazing. I hope to go to mass there sometime tomorrow morning. That is if I wake up tomorrow morning.
16.5 miles/31,604 steps. Right now the bathroom is about four steps away and that seems like a pretty fair distance.
Never once have I woken up and said to myself, “Self, why don’t we walk 33,000 steps today?” I know that some of you probably have to do this for your job, but the distance between the altar and the little place where I stand to preach there’s no more than about 20 steps at most. My feet hurt. Tomorrow, I will get up and do about the same thing. I volunteered for this. Amazing. It really is quite amazing.
On the way out this morning I noticed that one of the small chapels was open. James was there to greet the day.
From there, it was a matter of picking them up and putting them down. I actually felt stronger today. I think part of it had to do with coming down out of the altitude. Seems there’s a bit more air down here.
Did I mention that I’m listening to The Long Walk by Stephen King? I won’t spoil it for you because I know so many of you are going to want to read it now, but it is motivation to keep moving that’s for sure. I really do hope they make a movie out of this one.
In the book, there was mention of passing a cemetery, and as luck would have it…
Most of the day was spent fairly off-road. They’ve done quite a bit to make it more accessible, but there are places where the way gets quite challenging.
Compared to a few spots, that’s actually quite tame. The last 3 miles leading into Zubiri are rough. The rocks and the roots want to reach out and bite you. Just prior to this patch was a fella in a food truck. I was 10 miles in at this point and was more than willing to pay five euros for an ice cold Coca-Cola and a chocolate chip cookie. There were several who were purchasing his beers. I would not have wanted to navigate that road on even a sip of wine.
I’m resting my barking dogs at the moment, but we’ll go out in a bit and see if I can find an open church and then track down some supper. A remarkable day so far.
Zubiri is basically a bedroom community to Pamplona so there’s not a lot here. The church was locked up tighter than a bank, with a padlock and chain. The restaurants were basically bars with loud people. I stopped by the grocery store and bought a nice French loaf, some smoked meat, hard cheese, and a Toblerone bar. I sat in the dining hall with Elvis and enjoyed my meal.
Sounds like a perfect supper to me. It’s not even 6:30 PM and I am ready for bed.
I did not sleep well last night. My room was on the third floor… Top floor… And the windows did not open. It was hot. Tonight will be better.
Candle in a Cave 