Travel: Oslo 4 (Culinary Delight)

A trip to The Top, which is the restaurant on the 33rd floor of the hotel.

To begin, I had a tasty glass of wine and the oysters. For those who know my palate, the jalapeño is not generally on it, but the seeds had been removed leaving only the flavor. Both were exquisite and the hostess assured me that the wine was an excellent pairing with the main course.

This was followed by the main course. FYI: if it is a foggy night, Christmas Eve Mass will be cancelled, because I ate Rudolph.

I have had some very tender meat in time, but this was ridiculous. When in Norway, do yourself a solid and have a little reindeer.

REINDEER ENTRECOTE
Lingonberry sauce, caramelized artichoke puree, savoy cabbage

The side dish was a scalloped potato and amazing. Had I been in the restaurant alone, I would have picked up all the plates and licked them clean, which reminds me…

John visited his 90-year-old grandpa who lived way out in the country. On the first morning of the visit, John’s grandpa prepared a breakfast of bacon and eggs. John noticed a film-like substance on his plate, and asked, “Are these plates clean?”

His grandpa replied, “They’re as clean as cold water can get them. Just go ahead and finish your meal.”

For lunch, Grandpa made hamburgers. Again, John was concerned about the plates, as his appeared to have specks of dried egg on it. “Are you sure these plates are clean?” he asked.

Without looking up, Grandpa said, “I told you before, those dishes are as clean as cold water can get them!” 

Later, as John was leaving, his grandpa’s dog started to growl and wouldn’t let him pass.

John said, “Grandpa, your dog won’t let me get by!”

Grandpa yelled to the dog, “Cold Water, go lie down!”

After Cold Water got the dishes cleaned, I made my way to desert.

SEA BUKTHORN SORBET
Chocolate terrine, chervil oil, cocoa soil

Yeah, beneath the rabbit food is a dark and white chocolate bar. Yummy.

I finished the meal up with an Oban 14 (neat).

I’m not spoiled. I’m glad this was in Kronor because, otherwise, I would be sending out one of those text messages about being broke in a foreign country and needing some financial assistance!

As for the rest of the day… I spent it resting the foot (8 miles yesterday), which is doing really well. Only a little ache today. I also did some reading, writing, and napping. If you can spend a Tuesday doing the same, I highly recommend it! Tomorrow, I’m off to see naked people. Apparently, there are 212 of them. Keep you posted.

I know that I talk about this topic a lot, but it is a problem that I hope to solve. From my early morning thoughts…

If you hate someone, then you do not care what you do to them and you don’t care about what happens to them. If something good happens, you sneer about it and if something bad happens to them, then you say they are getting what they deserve. The same thing it’s true about hating and loving yourself. If you hate yourself, you don’t care what you do to yourself and all the bad that can happen you deserve. If you love yourself–and not in a conceited, self-absorbed way, but in a Godly way–then you will care about who you are, how you treat yourself, and are thankful in knowing when good things come your way.

I figure if you’ve read this far, you deserve more than a restaurant review.

Travel: Oslo 3

Every day should begin with a ferry ride…

I made my way across the fjord to visit the Folkenmuseum, which is a collection of buildings and artifacts from all across the time and landscape of Norway.

As with most countries, Norway also has a surprisingly violent history. Following the violence was the development of a class system. That also seems to be true for most societies.

I then wandered about the grounds looking at various buildings until I spotted in the distance the one that I had come to see. 

Did you see it just there?

That is a Stave Church. Stave (I believe) refers to the type of architecture. It has to do with the way that the cross beams are placed on top of the vertical beams. Quite remarkable.

There were a number of reasons that I came to Norway, but this is in the top two. I wanted to see this church. It was actually moved from another location, but it is an excellent example. A wooden church that has survived for 900 years. Imagine. One of the reasons that it has survived has to do with the way that the wood was “cured.”

The primary supporting beams are from old growth forest. To give you an idea as to how old the trees were…

Instead of being cut down, all the limbs are trimmed off of the pines and the sap then saturates the heart of the tree. It is then harvested and the resulting wood is far more impervious to disease, rot, and other natural decaying elements.

In the latter years, the church was Protestant, however, it began its life as a Catholic Church. Much of the ornate beauty would have been removed. (A bit more about that in a minute.)

In the woodwork, you can see much of the Norse Heritage. There is much discussion on whether or not the Viking Compass is a contemporary invention or an historic fact. After looking at this door, which is about 900 years old, I think it’s more historic than recent. 

I made my way further into the museum and came to a section dedicated to the transitions from the Roman Catholic Church to the reformation.

Commentary Warning: Whether intentional or not, I believe they pointed out the biggest problem with the verbiage on this plaque.

ALTARPIECE

HEGGEN CHURCH, BUSKERUD COUNTY.

DATED 1595. THE LEFT WING IS MISSING.

According to the teachings of Luther the only path to salvation was through God’s Word in the Bible. After the Reformation, some clergymen understood this to mean that pictoral renditions in the church could lead to idolatry and divert attention from the Scriptures. In several churches, Catholic altarpieces with depictions of saints were therefore replaced with so-called text altarpieces.

A total of 78 are known in Norway, mainly from 1580-1625.

With Luther, the practice of worshiping the “text” as God became popular. When will we begin to worship GOD?…. Thus endeth the commentary.

Another mile on the feet and I came to the Fram Museum which was the celebration of the Norwegian exploration of the polar regions.

An amazing boat…

I thought it would be something about the Vikings, but… interesting.

As I made my way back to the ferry, I came across this statue. They are remembered in Norway and I know that there were many across the world who are remembered for this time as well.

The plaque speaks of the 4,500 Norwegian sailors who lost their during WWII.

Having crossed the fjord, I went in search of a church that was open. At first, I was very discouraged, but then I found the church of Saint Olaf. It seemed to be closed, but after following a few young men who appeared to know where they were going, I came to a door that allowed me in.

I was tired, so my first three decades were basically wasted, but then I was able to focus for a while.

I embraced the foot of the cross. It was then that Jesus said to me, “Look at me. I did not endure this so that you would carry your sins forever. Look at me. You only see my death. See my humanity. See the life I lived for you. Will you waste yours? Look at me! I love you. Look at me. See all that I have given you.”

I will continue to see You!

Travel: Oslo 2

Today, I attended Mass at the Oslo Domkirke (Cathedral), built between 1694-97, restored in 2010. As you approach from the front, you encounter the massive bronze doors depicting the Beatitudes. Across the top reads “Salice er,” “Blessed are….” Just to the right of the doors is “The Devil of Oslo,” a sculpture showing a man being consumed by evil, represented by a lion and a dragon. It was created in the 12th century and found in the ruins of St. Hallvard’s Cathedra.

Entering the sanctuary, I was bit surprised. I had anticipated it would be much more austere, and although not as ornate as many of the churches I’ve seen, it was still quite ornate and beautiful.

The service was in Norwegian, so I again did not understand a word of it; even so, it was very edifying, and I found myself feeling immensely blessed as I left. I took a minute to visit with the Pastor who was delighted to learn that I was a priest. He stated that much of their liturgy is based on the Anglican tradition. Even though I did not understand it all, I knew parts and definitely the rhythm. It was a well-ordered service and “polite”—that was the impression for me.

I intentionally arrived an hour early so that I could pray my Rosary. I did not expect there to be a statue of Mary, but…

This was by far the most meaningful of all the Rosaries I’ve prayed on this journey. I was finally able to experience His presence more deeply. Perhaps I’m finally feeling rested and at peace instead of being rushed and pushed.

Outside the cathedral is a memorial to the 77 people who were murdered on July 22, 2011, by a domestic terrorist. The marker reads,

On 22 July 2011, an act of terrorism ended the lives of 77 persons in Norway. In a spontaneous act of solidarity, thousands of people laid down roses in front of Oslo Cathedral. Inspired by this sea of roses, artists Tobbe Malm and Tone Karlsrud initiated a project in which smiths from all over the world, survivors and others affected by the attack were invited to forge roses from iron. Iron Roses is a memorial from the people, for the people.

Iron Roses created by
Tobbe Malm and MDH Arkitekter
2019

The city is quiet today, with the exception of many tourists pulling suitcases to the train station, so I plan to open the windows of my room, read a little and continue writing on the new novel. Did I mention I was working on a new project? It’ll be quite different than what I’ve done before. The first chapter is only three sentences long: “No one claimed responsibility, and the nuclear blast left no evidence. Those who died in the initial blast and from the fallout were the fortunate ones. Those who survived lived and died in great horror.” The working title is Triskelion.

Perhaps I also forgot to mention that I have a new book coming out early fall. It is not a Father Anthony, but maybe you’ll enjoy. I think I’ve got the cover about right…

Farvel for nå.

Travel: Oslo 1

After about a 1 mile walk, I arrived at the Nasjonalmuseet, The National Museum.  It is a collection of over 400,000 pieces and holds many of the national treasures of Norway.  I was drawn to the religious art (big surprise there), but there were many other pieces that I enjoyed.

My feet were tired at this point, so I sat down in front of the painting below and just enjoyed it. After a few minutes, I noticed the seagull down in the bottom right corner. There were actually two of them. The painting is Fresh Breeze on the Norwegian Coast by Hans Gude.

And then we came across this fella. This is a self portrait of Vincent van Gogh that was painted in 1889 and purchased by the museum in 1910. In 1970 it was questioned as to whether or not it was actually a van Gogh. It was confirmed in 2020. Van Gogh was in a deep state of psychosis at the time of the painting.

From an article in The Guardian:

In the portrait, dated August 1889, the artist’s expression is lifeless and the image is dominated by a dreary and downbeat greenish-brown tone.

“The Oslo self-portrait depicts someone who is mentally ill,” the museum said. “His timid, sideways glance is easily recognisable and is often found in patients suffering from depression and psychosis.”

Van Gogh admitted himself to a small asylum in Saint-Rémy, France, in May 1889 andii was struck down by a severe psychotic episode in July that lasted for a month and a half.

The painting can be linked to a letter that the artist wrote to his brother Theo in September, about a self-portrait “attempt from when I was ill”.

Try not to be too scared by what you see next. There are many amazing pieces of art in the museum, but this is perhaps the most famous. The Scream by Edvard Munch (yes, he is a Norwegian.) It was the only painting that I saw where a security guard was posted beside it. My guess is that the recent acts of vandalism against famous pieces of art has brought this on.

And yes, I am a dork.

After coming out of the museum and allowing my eyes a few minutes to adjust, I discovered that I was right next to the Nobel Peace Prize Center. I enjoyed my walk-through. There were many that I knew, but I sought out my two favorites.

Narges Mohammadi from Iran was the 2023 recipient of the award. Her story is quite fascinating.

Just a few photos from my walking about.

One more from the museum. It seems fitting that it should be at the bottom of this post. The title is Hell by Gustav Vigeland. The central figure is modeled after Rodin’s Gates of Hell. Old Scratch is seen here as a thinker.

Travel: Ireland / Cliffs of Moher

A two hour drive today out to the Cliffs of Moher, which are on the edge of the Burren. A beautiful scene looking up and down the coast and out over the Atlantic. There at mid-day, so the sun wasn’t quite on the cliffs at the time.

If you keep traveling in that direction, you will his the good ol’ USA.

Directly behind me from the 2nd picture above is O’Brien’s Tower, which was constructed in 1835.

For you Harry Potter fans, that cave is where Harry and Dumbledore found the locket…

To give you a perspective as to how tall the cliffs are, I’ve circled some people standing at the top. Apparently it is the place to fling yourself off if you’ve been rejected by your love. I think it would do the job.

If you ever make it to Lisdoonvarna, County Clare, I can earnestly recommend to you The Roadside Tavern. (Pictures not mine) I had the lamb, which was outstanding. I sat at the table there in the middle, although I did not line the beers up like that.

Your’s truly looking particularly windblown and in need of a shave.

Travel: Ireland / Rock of Cashel

The picture below is not mine, but is Devil’s Bit Mountain. The Devil’s bit is that gap in the middle.

Legend has it that Saint Patrick vanquished the devil from a cave. The devil became so infuriated that he took a bite out of the mountain. When he did, he broke a tooth. Being in pain, he spat out the mountain and his tooth. The site of the Rock of Cashel (about 22 miles south of Devil’s Bit Mountain) is the bit of the mountain and the devil’s broken tooth that was spat out. Originally the Rock of Cashel was a castle, but was later donated to the church by someone seeking favor. From there, it was transformed into a great community. It now lays in ruin, but you get an idea of what it once was.

From the website (Source):

Set on a dramatic outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale, The Rock of Cashel, iconic in its historic significance, possesses the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland. Among the monuments to be found there is a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral and a fifteenth-century Tower House.

Originally the seat of the kings of Munster, according to legend St. Patrick himself came here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity (note: this occurred in the year 432 a.d.) Brian Boru was crowned High King at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital.

In 1101 the site was granted to the church and Cashel swiftly rose to prominence as one of the most significant centres of ecclesiastical power in the country.

Apparently, she also gave considerable money.

As with all cities and castles, it was built on a hill to give a commanding view of the surrounding lands.

Cormac’s Chapel dates to the 11th century. Pictured below is the restored chapel. In the process of the restoration, beautiful frescos were discovered beneath the centuries of dirt and whitewash. Although no longer fully intact, the second image is what it is believed to have originally looked like.

After such a hard day of walking and looking, what better place to stop than a traditional Irish pub and have a very tasty Irish coffee.

I hear that the weather has been absolutely remarkable and it was again today, although a bit blustery. The foot is doing well and did not give me any grief. A very good day. Next Wednesday, I travel again. Where will I land this time?

Camino: still in Ireland…

It is no longer the Camino de Santiago, but it is the way I am going now.

The foot is doing better, although I would not set out on an 18 mile walk. It is going to take a bit more time to get back to that. For now, I am mostly content to rest it, though I feel like I’m “wasting” my sabbatical. We will see what the days ahead bring.

The sun is rising on a new day here in Ireland. Keep you posted.

Camino to Ireland

Today has been a day of travel. I went from Los Arcos to Logroño. My bus was late so I missed my second bus to Madrid. There was another one at 12:45 PM and I got that one. Four hours later I arrived in Madrid. I went and found a new suitcase because I had been carrying my possessions in a bag that I found in the back room of the hotel. I gave away my hiking shoes in Los Arcos because the hikers I had were murder on my foot. The walking I did in my sandals hurt like the dickens at the beginning, but settled in after a bit. I somehow suspect that a little bit later tonight I will regret that walking. I have found some new shoes! Skechers. There were several other brands, but these are recognized. Soft on the bottom, and more importantly, soft on the top.

I have stayed in some very nice places the last several nights. However, the hotel I’m staying at in Madrid is a paradise. I’m sitting down, waiting on my octopus to be delivered for my supper. I’m thinking it’s going to be delicious although you who have issues with my mackrel during the week may not find it so appetizing.

I continue to think about many things. We really don’t change. We are who we are and we fight the battles. It doesn’t matter where you are, your demons will follow you. If you pray that those demons might release you and they remain, does that mean that you are a complete loss and destined for level nine? Or does that mean that Saint Paul heard correctly, “My grace is sufficient for thee.” Do we continue to fight against the demons? I look at the person that I am, and I wonder, is this really who God wants me to be? I can’t imagine the person that I am is satisfying to Him. We desire to be more but… all that remains is who we are…. hold that thought, supper has arrived…

I absolutely complained to the management. It was a terrible supper. The baby octopus was two days too old. Horrible. I ate it so that I would not embarrass the chef. For those of you who know that I eat mackerel out of a can, please know that this was even better, and if I could get it in a can, I would be eating it every day! Just for the record.

I see that I have mentioned this earlier, so I am just rambling now… Before I arrived at my hotel, I purchased a new suitcase and a new pair of sneakers. My foot is very appreciative of the new sneakers. The suitcase actually contains everything after the great purge. I got rid of my backpack and many of the items that I needed for the long walk. However, I was left with a small day pack, and it was bursting at the seams. It made it this far, but I think it had just about met its maker.

When I walked into the luggage store and the shoe store, they both looked at me as though I did not belong. That is something worth preaching on. However, when they realized that I could actually pay… do you remember that scene from Pretty Woman, apparently they did… they helped me out.

I have been rambling all day long. My apologies. Not great writing. However, I’ve been struggling from one place to the next and I’m just about to the place where I can stop. I need a haircut. I need a shower. I need somebody to trim my eyebrows (I can’t be that shaggy English guy!) I need about a 12 hour nap. Who doesn’t? We go too hard. We must learn to find peace and rest…………

I do not believe that we know how to breathe. I think we try so hard to prove to the world and to ourselves… What?… Something.… That we are… Important? Have relevance? Deserve to be heard?…

… Maybe we just want the world to know that we exist or existed? Maybe we are all the good thief who cries out in all desperation, “Remember me.” …… I’m talking to myself now…..

Wait! I forgot about my white crane this morning. She/he was sitting on their nest at the top of the bell tower in Los Arcos. A beautiful bird, and so very peaceful to watch. So high up that she/he did not care that we were down below observing them.

If you do not hear from me in the next six months, start searching for my body in this area of Ireland. I’ll be headed there tomorrow.

Sleep well. know that God loves you.

My scars hurt.