Travel – Candle in a Cave

6 October 20266 October 2026

Santiago: Day Five

It was a very early start today so that I could get to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela when it opened and before all the other visitors. I was fourth in line and this little creature kept me company while I waited for the doors to open.

Promptly at seven, the doors opened and I made my way to the altar. It so much more glorious than this picture shows.

From the back, you get another hint of what you are searching for.

The little star is the clue…

According to medieval tradition, after his martyrdom in Jerusalem around AD 44, the body of St. James the Greater was carried by his disciples to Galicia in northwestern Spain and buried there. Over the centuries, the location of the tomb was forgotten.

Around AD 813, a hermit or monk named Pelayo (Pelagius) began seeing mysterious lights—often described as stars—shining over a wooded place called Libredón. He reported the phenomenon to Bishop Theodomir of Iria Flavia, who investigated and discovered an ancient tomb containing remains believed to be those of St. James and two of his disciples.

King Alfonso II of Asturias was informed and ordered a church built over the site. That shrine eventually developed into the great Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and became one of medieval Christianity’s major pilgrimage destinations.

The famous explanation that Compostela means campus stellae, “field of the star,” comes from this tradition. It is beautiful and very old, although modern linguists generally think the actual origin of the name Compostela is different. The star, nevertheless, became one of Santiago’s enduring symbols—heaven itself, in the legend, pointing pilgrims toward the apostle’s resting place.

Taking several steps further down, you find the Apostle James. It is very moving.

I had about 30 seconds with him alone, then the other pilgrims began filing in, but for those 30 seconds… yeah.

I have now prayed before the remains of Peter, Paul, James, Josémaría Escrivá, John Paul II, and several others (and let’s not forget Fatima). It is always an experience and you feel the… what?… connection seems like such a weak word.

Different angles of the cathedral…

I came back and visited with a lady from Brazil. She is a lawyer and an author. All of her books are in Portuguese, but if you like…

From there, I was off to the “office.” I continued to work on my report on the artwork and other bits of San Fiz’s history while attending to the duties. Visitors come in singles or many at once. It is very rare that I’m in the church alone.

When I am, I take silly pictures (or proof that I’m actually here!)…

There was octopus for lunch with roasted potatoes and chips with chocolate-filled biscotti for dinner… just working the spectrum.

As a hint to the “research project”: this is the baptismal font located in the church. The base and pedestal are from two different centuries. I found the seven holes on the rim interesting and wondered what they were for. Research indicates that there was perhaps a locking lid (formally required) and several other instances could be found, so I asked to recreate what it may have looked like. How the font currently looks…

Based on intact examples, a rendering of the font may have looked something like this…

Is that what it would have looked like? I don’t know, but I’m making a fairly educated guess that it is close.

Something to do while I attend to the church and visitors.

I pray you are all well. I am happy to light a candle for you in the Church of San Fiz if you like. Just send me a note or comment on this post.

Blessings!

FYI: Her Royal Felineness seems a little less hissed off than a few days ago and also appears to be coming close to slinkying off the counter…

5 October 2026

Santiago (et al): Day Four

This was my day off and it was whirlwind tour day: Muros, Hórreo de Carnota, Xallas, Cape Finisterre, Fisterra, Muxia, and Ponte Maceira. Here we go…

Muros: a beautifully preserved Galician fishing town where granite arcades, narrow streets, and sea all come together. Its harbor still feels genuinely working rather than staged for visitors.

We only had 45 minutes here, so I headed straight for the Church of Santa Maria do Campo (the traditional name) / Igrexa San Pedro (current parish name).

The plate outside states: Currently, it is the parish church of Muros. From its original construction, in the 13th century, the Romanesque façade must be highlighted. Inside, there is an example of the Maritime Gothic style, with a single nave made of several wide pointed arches, which give the building the shape of an upturned ship. This building was converted into a Collegiate Church in the year 1500, thanks to the privilege granted to the town by the papal bull of Alexandre VI. After the conversion, successive improvement works were promoted, such as the creation of side chapels, a baptistery and a tower bell, which was built by the Guild of Fishermen, one of the main benefactors of the tempie. In 1851, surrounded by the political conflicts of the 19th century, the temple lost its status of Collegiate Church. Inside the church, the water font is remarkable due to its ubmerged sculpture of a snake that symbolizes triumph over sin.

Yeah. It’s a snake!

Inside…

Beautiful statues in the many side altars…

And then… the scariest Jesus I’ve ever seen! My goodness, these Spaniards have a way of making a point.

One of the primary “crops” of Muros is muscles. There are many farms. These long ropes are dangled below the floating farms and the muscles attach, grow, and are harvested.

Hórreo de Carnota: A hórreo is a traditional raised granary found especially in Galicia and Asturias in northern Spain. It was built to store corn, grain, potatoes, and other food while keeping them dry and safe from rodents.

Most are about this size…

The design is such that mice could climb up the pillars but the small round top of the pillars that the building sits on is flat and the little vermin couldn’t navigate them. The slats on the sides are for airflow. They are no longer used, but if one is on your property, you are required to keep it standing and repaired as they are considered part of the regional heritage.

As I said above, most are smaller, but we saw one of the largest…

Who would need such a large hórreo? Why the Church, of course. At the time, farmers were required to tithe 10% and the Church needed somewhere to store it all. See a big hórreo, look around… the church will not be far.

Xallas: Everything is big in Xallas and this was a big waterfall. Over 100 feet high. The water at the bottom is a combination of sweet water and salt water as the Atlantic Ocean is very near. In the past, the waterfall was much greater, but most of the water is now running a hydroelectric plant.

Cape Finisterra: We are now traveling along the the Costa da Morta (Coast of Death), getting its name from all the shipwrecks.

Enter the Raqueiros. These bandits supposedly put false lights along the shore—one famous version says lanterns were attached to cattle—so sailors would mistake them for safe harbor lights, steer toward shore, wreck on the rocks, and leave their cargo available for plunder. There were plenty of ships to plunder after they wrecked, but apparently an archbishop declared that all found property belonged to original owner and had to be returned. Yeah… and they also outlawed liquor in the USA for a while. I’ll let you figure out if said archbishop was obeyed. The actual lighthouse…

For many years, it was considered to be the end of the world, and it is easy to see why: no more beyond.

Enid, Oklahoma is about 4,500 miles away, straight across the Atlantic.

My artistic shot…

Fisterra: We stopped for lunch and I forgot to take pictures! It was good—Longueirón (Knives) from Fisterra and Galician Scallops. And then to the place I’ve been waiting for…

Muxia: I’ll let the pictures do the talking here, but will tell you that I was right down there below that big rock with red dot.

I posted a video on Facebook if you can get to it.

There is a church, but a lightning strike started a fire and it was gutted. Repairs are underway.

That is actually a large picture of the altar.

And just being weird here, but there was a large pile of rubble outside the building that the workers had been clearing out. Caught one of them on a smoke break and asked for a piece. He smiled and found me a good one. Yeah. It’s concrete, but it was close…

Last stop—Ponte Maceira: a bridge that spans the Tambre River on the Camino from Santiago toward Fisterra. According to medieval legend, Saint James’s disciples, Theodore and Athanasius, crossed an earlier bridge here while fleeing Roman soldiers after seeking permission to bury the Apostle. As their pursuers followed, the bridge miraculously collapsed, leaving the disciples safely across the river. The present medieval bridge came centuries later, but its seven stone arches still carry the memory of that miraculous escape.

That was nine hours of my life that I wouldn’t trade. Such an amazing and rich history here. Google these towns and ask about the legends surrounding them, especially regarding the Camino de Santiago and St. James. Fascinating.

I pray you are all well.

4 October 2026

Santiago: Day Three

Sunday started a bit slower here than at home. The Mass wasn’t until 12:30 p.m. I may have to talk to the vestry about a new time for church! There were eight in attendance, but for a very Roman Catholic community, that was pretty good. Wasn’t quite as nervous today as I was the first time.

I did remember to take a picture of the church…

I also found my way to the small balcony…

It is quite lovely.

This afternoon I spent nursing a very sore back and editing six chapters of Birdy. This evening, the back is better after I located a pharmacy for a little something to salve it with.

I also spent more time this afternoon researching the artwork in San Fiz. I’m planning on putting together a small booklet to share with the Anglican community so that others might benefit from it. In the process, I came across a very curious symbol at the bottom of the retable, just below the statue of Mary…

No. It is not, “Show me the money!”

An S pierced by what at first appears to be an arrow. The key is recognizing it as a nail—clavo in Spanish. Together they form a visual wordplay: S + clavo = esclavo, “slave.”

The emblem was used by Spanish religious confraternities whose members described themselves as esclavos of Christ, the Blessed Sacrament, or the Virgin Mary. Here “slave” expressed complete, voluntary devotional surrender rather than literal bondage. Examples of the S-and-nail device can be traced to Spanish religious practice at least as far back as the late sixteenth century, with particularly clear Marian examples in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

Thus, what looks like a curious decorative mark at San Fiz is actually a small theological declaration: I belong entirely to God.

I like that! And I may need some ink.

After a Middle Eastern lunch at Jerusalem, very tasty, I wandered around and attempted to be artsy.

Came back to the Casa to unload the pack and cassock and then back out for dinner. I had a real hankering for curry, but all the places I found were closed, so chose Ramen Okaeri. Guess what? They serve curry and it was delicious!

I started with an Asahi and the Takoyaki (octopus balls):

And finished up with Curry rice with prawn tempura:

Feeling particularly fat and happy. Oh… and there was a “CUTE” cat that watched over it all:

That was my day. Tomorrow I am “off” and will be taking a tour through Finisterre, Muxía, Ézaro & Coast of Death (I’ve no idea what that is).

They are singing down in the garden here, so I may have to go see what the peregrinos are up to.

Looking out the window from my room.

And today’s selfie (it was taken in what will later be known as my artsy phase)…

Have a blessed day.

3 October 2026

Santiago: Day Two

This is definitely a working vacation. I am the only clergy serving the Casa Anglicana and St. Fiz Church (still forgot the photo). The Casa is full with 32 guests and the church…

From 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., I blessed many rosaries, heard confessions, prayed the midday office and the Mass, and welcomed over 400 visitors to the church. I also got chewed out on two separate occasions by little Spanish ladies who are not pleased with we Anglican apostates using their church (I survived both chewings and the bonus, I didn’t understand a word, but got the point). It was a very big day. Also a glorious one.

Afterward, I slipped off my cassock, grabbed a cold beer, and took in a few sights—first the church at the Convent of St. Francis was open. As it is not one of the big tourist hangouts, it was quiet and beautiful.

After that, I did some random people-watching, then stumbled into an even quieter courtyard. I can relate, Alonso III de Fonseca. I can relate.

The courtyard was lovely.

Coming back to the Casa, I passed in front of the Cathedral and watched the Martins swooping between the spires. Thinking they might have been Swallows, I was reminded of a passage from Treatise on the Love of God by St. Francis de Sales:

There are certain birds, Theotimus, which Aristotle calls apodes, because having extremely short legs, and feeble feet, they use them no more than if they had none.

And if ever they light upon the ground they must remain there, so that they can never take flight again of their own power… hence they remain there motionless, and die, unless some wind, propitious to their impotence… happen to seize upon and bear them up.

He then writes,

But we mortals rather resemble apodes…

And concludes,

The wind that raises the apodes blows first upon their feathers…

Yet, it is the wind of divine love that must blow upon us should we ever choose to “light upon the ground,” that is, step outside of God’s love and grace.

Lesson: never “light upon the ground,” but remain always in flight of God’s grace. However, if you choose to try and “walk” alone, and find that you can’t, pray for Wind. It will find you.

This also reminds me of someone I visited with today. I felt a breeze around them.

I pray you are well.

2 October 2026

Santiago: Day One

A partial tour of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. I’ll be going back for more.

Portico of Glory by Master Mateo and his workshop. You can no longer enter the cathedral from this entrance and must pay to see the portico. Of course I did. You can see the hand print where thousands upon thousands of pilgrims have touched it, but you can no longer join them (the guard is there to see to it that you don’t.) It is glorious and will be well preserved. No pictures allowed. The photo was available online.

This was followed by a tour of the rooftop, and yes, my legs are still wiggly from all the steps.

The progression of the pictures. St. James from below. St. James zoomed in from below. The back of St. James from the top.

Other shots from the roof.

Afterward, I stopped by “the office” — San Félix de Solovio (aka: San Fiz). All the pictures are from the inside because I forgot to take one outside.

I was not expecting to “work” today, but the priest who was here had to leave early, so I took the Mass at 4 p.m. I have not been that nervous praying the Mass since my first time!

The brief history provided to pilgrims:

This church is mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus and is associated with the first pilgrims. Legend has it that this was the first church in Compostela and the home of a hermit named Paio, who, guided by a star, was able to discover the tomb containing the remains of Saint James. The pilgrim Leon de Rosmital, who traveled between 1465 and 1467, wrote in his diary: iOn the outskirts, before entering the city, there is a small Galician church believed to have been built by Saint James, where he lived while preaching in Galicia.”

Historians date the original church on this site to the 9th century. Damaged during the Arab invasions, it was rebuilt around 1122. In 1316, a portico and a polychrome tympanum depicting the Adoration of the Magi were added.

The tower was added several centuries later.

The early medieval church was destroyed by Almanzor and rebuilt in the 12th century by Diego Xelmirez. In the 18th century, it was rebuilt once again by Simón Rodríguez, who significantly expanded the church grounds and built a new bell tower, whose design was often imitated throughout Galicia in the following years.

At a side altar. She is beautiful… Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Mary, Mother of Sorrows)

She is Mary alone in her grief after Christ’s Passion. Attributed to Galician sculptor José Ferreiro, she wears dark mourning colors, tears visibly streaming down her face. The sword recalls Simeon’s prophecy, while her upward gaze transforms sorrow into prayer, surrender, and hope.

Other pieces throughout the church that I plan to learn more about during the week.

It was then time for dinner because I forgot to eat lunch. Let’s just say, “I’ll be going back.”

Taberna Montes— a wonderfully Galician meal: zamburiñas a la plancha, small scallops grilled in their shells with olive oil, garlic, and herbs, followed by pulpo á feira, tender octopus dressed simply with olive oil, coarse salt, and smoky pimentón. I washed it all down with a crisp, refreshing glass of Albariño—Galicia on a plate.

The lines for the public areas of the Cathedral are long. Maybe not tomorrow, but I will be up early one day this week to get in at 7 a.m. while pilgrims on their way are not yet here and pilgrims who are here are sleeping in.

I pray you are all well and happier than The Queen who is not yet sociable at the Cat Resort (I get her a room to royal self and she sleeps in the darkest corner.)

10 July 2026

Oklahoma City Museum of Art: “Flaming June”

Exhibit: The Sense of Beauty: Six Centuries of Painting from Museo De Arte De Ponce. Flaming June is a painting I have loved since I first saw it… probably in my 20s. It made its way to the top of the things to do when I heard it would be showing in OKC. It was worth the wait!

Miguel Trelles
Puerto Rican, b. 1969
**Philanthropist**, 2000
Oil on canvas
Raised in an academic and literate environment, Miguel Trelles is an artist, curator, and cultural manager based in New York City’s Lower East Side, committed to increasing the visibility of the Latino community in the city’s visual and performing arts scenes. His artistic work is notable for blending elements of Chinese and Latin American cultures.
For this work, Trelles drew inspiration from figures such as American philanthropist Paul Mellon and Luis A. Ferré, founder of the Museo de Arte de Ponce, who was a key supporter of his artistic career from the beginning.
The subject of the painting appears seated on a sofa, while an early modern portrait hangs on the wall behind him. This painting within a painting serves as a nod to the philanthropist’s role as a collector, highlighting the connection between art and patronage.

William-Adolphe Bouguereau
French, 1825-1905
***Far from Home***, 1868
Oil on canvas
This canvas was among the first artworks acquired by Luis A. Ferré for the Museo de Arte de Ponce. It depicts two young sisters who survive by performing music and begging on the streets of Rome. William-Adolphe Bouguereau’s idealized figures, set against a classical-inspired architectural background, illustrate the theme of poverty without the harsh realism that can be unsettling. A polished finish, muted color palette, and classical poses define his work. Although Bouguereau stayed a dedicated supporter of the academic style throughout his career, this painting reveals an interest in the new themes that emerged during the second half of the nineteenth century, when increased social awareness led to the portrayal of scenes from daily life.

Lucas Cranach the Elder German, 1472-1553
***Judith with the Head of Holofernes***, ca. 1527-1537
Oil on panel
Lucas Cranach the Elder served as a court painter for the prince-electors of Saxony, who were based in Wittenberg. At the court, he befriended Martin Luther and supported his criticism of the Catholic Church.
In this powerful portrayal of Judith, the heroine of the Old Testament, Cranach depicts her as victorious after beheading Holofernes, the Assyrian general who was besieging her city. Juxtaposing serene beauty with gruesome triumph, she is elegantly dressed in a red velvet contemporary gown trimmed with brocaded fabric and a pearl-embroidered trunk. She holds the enemy’s head with her slashed gloves, which reveal her lavish rings. Her gentle face, with the delicate features typical of the artist, is framed by the golden halo of her hair and jewel-encrusted necklaces. Judith’s story has been interpreted as an allegory of the struggle between good and evil, and, therefore, Cranach may have envisioned this composition as a symbol of the battle between the Protestant Reformation and the Catholic Church.

Doménikos Theotokópoulos, “El Greco” l
Greek, 1541-1614
***Saint Francis of Assisi in Meditation with Brother Leo***, ca. 1600-
1605
Oil on canvas
Representations of Saint Francis of Assisi, especially those depicting his ascetic and contemplative life, exemplified the Christian life that the faithful were expected to follow according to the principles of the Counter-Reformation, initiated by the Council of Trent (1545-1563) to strengthen
Catholic influence in response to the Protestant Reformation. Art played a crucial role in this effort, aiming to inspire faith and devotion through the visual expression of spiritual intensity.
Building on the popularity of devotional art, El Greco created numerous depictions of the saint, with more than 30 versions of the composition showing
Saint Francis alongside Brother Leon, his secretary and confessor. To meet the growing demand for devotional paintings, El Greco relied on the help of his assistants. Contemporary sources describe the small samples he would show clients, from which they could choose their preferred composition, with the value based on the artist’s involvement. The painting’s dramatic lighting and elongated forms are characteristic of El Greco’s style.

Pedro Machuca
Spanish, ca. 1490-1550
***The Descent of the Holy Ghost***, ca. 1520-1530
Oil on panel
On the Christian feast of Pentecost, the Virgin Mary and the twelve apostles gathered in Jerusalem. During this gathering, they witnessed a miracle: the Holy Ghost, depicted as a dove surrounded by a large halo, descended into the room and empowered everyone to speak different languages, enabling them to preach the Gospel in foreign lands.
The Spanish painter Pedro Machuca worked in Rome, most likely in Raphael’s renowned workshop, before returning to Spain in 1520. It is believed that he created this intensely emotional piece after returning to the Iberian Peninsula.
Machuca brought with him artistic innovations that were popular in Italy at the time. The painting demonstrates the use of perspective and naturalistic figures, similar to the works of the great masters of the Italian Renaissance.
Its horizontal format suggests that it was originally used as a predella for an altarpiece that would have been placed above it. This panel was one of sixteen Italian and Spanish paintings donated to the Museo de Arte de Ponce by the Samuel H. Kress Foundation in 1962.

Andrew Peters
Sandhill Cranes on the Great
Migration
Oil, gold, wood, metal | 60 × 60 × 12 in.

Paul Moore
***Moon Over the Pueblo***
Oil on canvas | 20 x 20 in.

Frederic Leighton
English, 1830-1896
***Flaming June***, ca. 1895
Oil on canvas
Flaming June, an iconic work in art history, has been widely reproduced, cementing its place in our cultural consciousness. Its reproductive value was highlighted in one of its earliest reviews, a trait appreciated by its first owner, the publisher of an illustrated newspaper, who admired and promoted it by distributing free reproductions to his subscribers as a Christmas gift. The contemporary audience undoubtedly revered its creator, Frederic Leighton, who was then president of the Royal Academy of Arts in London. The work was one of six paintings Leighton displayed at the Academy’s summer exhibition in 1895, just months before he died in January 1896.
Flaming June results from an extensive creative process where the artist experimented with multiple sketches to capture the complex posture of a woman reclining before a Mediterranean seascape. The painting echoes some of the artist’s earlier works and draws inspiration from historical masterpieces, including classical Greek sculptures and Renaissance artworks, especially those by Michelangelo. The interplay of line, color, and light offers a unique interpretation of Mediterranean antiquity, captured in the slumber of a sensual female form.
Luis A. Ferré’s acquisition of the painting in 1963 for the Museo de Arte de Ponce, during a time when Victorian art was undervalued-this piece had been out of the public eye for more than three decades-reflects the philosophy of Ferré and his advisors, who aimed to acquire
“pictures of quality, irrespective of their ‘fashion’ in the market,” thus contributing to the formation of the museum’s exceptional collection.

22 April 2026

Travel: Luxembourg (Vacation Day)

It was a rather noisy beginning today—the renovation of the room above me started. I said, to myself, “Self, you need to do penance, so just endure,” but then my selfish self said, “Nope. Not while on vacation!” So, I did something very much unlike me, I asked for a new room. The staff was kind and understanding and understood that I can do penance when I return home, and gave me a new room. Very nice.

Once settled, I did something unusual for someone who is about 5,000 miles from home, I spent the day writing. The mind took an amazing journey and I put down many words (even ran out of ink in my pen and had to go in search of a new one!)

I do believe the next vaca will be a writing retreat. We shall see. The story (have I already mentioned this) is Execution Day. It will be a part of a collection of short stories—nothing like I’ve written/published before—titled Seven Deadly. At this point, they are all a bit weird, but too much fun to write. I’m always killin’ off somebody!

At about 7:30 p.m., I realized that I had only a light breakfast to eat and went in search of ramen. The ones near by were closed, but I found “Asian Soul” and had some delicious Thai food and beer… I think the second beer was actually from China.

Fried shrimp cakes with an onion, garlic, and pepper pickled for dipping.

Shrimp in green curry, toned down for me. Perfect amount of spice and so very good.

During and afterward, I stopped to take a few pictures. This first one is called “The Ordinary in Light” (doesn’t he think he is the artiste giving his pictures names!)

On the way back to the hotel, I saw the light playing off the buildings and…

And from the balcony of the new room (sorry, brother, no more garden)…

Tomorrow will be a bit busier. Following breakfast, I will make my way to Adikt Ink where Matteo will give my new adult “sticker.” Something to remember this journey by and inspired by Joan, my hero in Rouen, France. Afterward, I will visit a local bookstore where I can find a Stephen King in some language other than English (I won’t be able to read it, but other than the new “sticker” it will be one of my few souvenirs. FYI: the exchange rate is miserable, so I’ve done little to no shopping.

During my occasional scroll today, I came across this from Fyodor Dostoevsky: “From the outside, you seem mature with a philosopher’s mind. But inside, you’re just a child lost in a sweet delusion.” Don’t be afraid to be a child. They are always curious and poking their little noses in all sorts of interesting places. Along the way, someone is bound to tell you “No!” or “It’s not possible!” Don’t you believe it. Even a sixty-one year old child is finding out those sweet delusions can, in fact, be reality.

May you have a blessed day, may your Grand Marnier always be a long pour, and may Our Lord and God bless you immensely. He does love all His silly children.

For those curious about The Queen, she apparently has a new favorite game at The Cat Resort…

21 April 202621 April 2026

Travel: Luxembourg

…and I’ve no idea how many days.

I debated on whether or not to bring a coat with me. I’m glad the warm natured John lost that bet. It was a chilly day with wind. Still, that did not stop me from getting out. First stop: Notre Dame Cathedral at Luxembourg. FYI: Notre Dame means “Our Lady,” so there are many churches named Notre Dame.

A view from the outside…

This is the only view I got. Why? Because it is closed for the next three days. Oh, well. I crossed the street and went underground… literally.

Welcome to the Pétrusse Casemates, the underground portion of the fortifications. Once you enter, it is all down hill.

AUSTRIAN STAIRWAY
This impressive stairway, hewn into the rock, was constructed in 1728 under the Austrians.
Via 131 steps, it leads down into the Pétrusse valley. Through a double door, the passageway went on up to the fort on the opposite side. A direct underground connection was thus created between the inner and outer fortifications.

ILLUMINATION
Four kinds of illumination were deployed in the underground fortifications, just as they were in the mines up until the 19th century: candles, pinewood spills, oil lamps, and tallow dips with animal fats. Inventories show that in the Luxembourg fortress it was mainly oil lamps and candles that were used for illumination in the casemates.

I actually thought the sign over this doorway said something of interest, but after arriving back at the hotel… “Smoking Prohibited.”

RAVELIN DU PÂTÉ
The so-called Ravelin du pâté® (from the French
•pâté”, an irregular platform] was built by the Spaniards in about 1673/74 to protect the main wall of the fortress. The interior consists of two artillery galleries, one above the other, with embrasures for the defence of the valley. There is a small platform on the top for the placement of artillery.

Once at the bottom of the valley, you have an excellent view of the bridge. Carved into the stone a little further down the river was a beautiful church, also closed, but I tried to get a few photos through the windows.

Chapel of St Quirinus (Gräinskapell)
The Chapel of St Quirinus is situated in the valley of the Pétrusse, close to a spring that is said to work miracles. Its water is indeed said to have a beneficial effect on diseases of the eye. Originally, this was probably the site of a pagan cult, which was then converted into a Christian place of worship under the Romans. The chapel is dedicated to St Quiri-nus, who until 1666 was the patron saint of the city. The inside of the chapel consists of a double grotto, the larger being the church and the other the sacristy. The Gothic-style façade was probably erected around 1350 by the Knights of the Teutonic Order. The little steeples and roof of this pilgrimage site were added in 1885 during a restoration carried out by the State architect Charles Arendt (1825-1910). The miracle-performing spring situated at the bottom of the chapel can no longer be accessed. It has been closed over by a grid.

At this point, I stood staring and wondering where to go. Pulling out my trusty map, the decision wasn’t difficult and only a 30 minute bus ride. It is not something I am generally drawn to, but I’m so very glad I took the trip. It was very moving. Something in your soul will ache.

5,076 Headstones

4,958 Latin Crosses

119 Stars of David

371 markers of the Unknown

22 sets of brothers

Luxembourg American Cemetery is the only American military cemetery in Luxembourg.

When I get home, I would like to try and find out more about him. Maybe send his family the picture.

At the time, I was the only one here. I thought that was sad.

As I walked through, I couldn’t help but touch the markers and read the names… it seemed to be the only way I could honor them. I kept thinking, “Today, I see you.”

Among those buried here…

A truly sacred place.

That it may please Thee to make wars to cease in all the world; to give to all nations unity, peace, and concord; and to bestow freedom upon all peoples, We beseech thee to hear us, good Lord.

Okay… breathe. I don’t know where I saw this, but I thought it was important:

After today, my soul needs sushi. Be back shortly with pictures of food and beer.

So good…

And, as I did not get one of the beer (Sapporo, naturally), you get your’s truly with his Grand Marniner.

And the dork is cracking himself up!!

Have a blessed day.

20 April 2026

Travel: Rouen (via Paris) to Luxembourg and Rest

Yesterday was a much easier day of travel from Rouen to Luxembourg—took the train. We did not crash into any buildings.

After so many days of going, I took the day off. My only reason for getting up and dressed was breakfast and phone charger—I forgot to bring my converter for the outlets. The other hotels had USB ports, but this one did not. Glad to have brought my battery pack to charge the phone last night.

After returning to the hotel, I did the only logical thing: took a nap. Then got up and worked on a short story, Execution Day, which I hope will be part of a collection of short stories that I’ve been working on—Seven Deadly—although there will be more than seven stories, and they will not all be too deadly.

At one point, as I sat here in my PJs and writing, I got a bit chilly. I do not have a robe or slippers with me, so did the best I could. The result: me sitting in my PJs, wearing my overcoat (which I’m very glad I brought) and my hiking boots.

Selfie Stick and timer set on phone + mad dash to strike the pose.

After such hard work, it was time for some food. I went for something completely different and will likely be sitting up in bed all night because my white-bread American stomach doesn’t handle spicy food too well, but it was so very good.

The meal…

I had no idea what I was ordering, so relied on my very kind host to help me out. I had at first wanted to attempt one other dish, but it had three 🌶️🌶️🌶️ beside it. My host said it wasn’t possible to make it milder, so we agreed on a dish with 🌶️🌶️, and he said he could get it down to 🌶️. It was perfect! Timmuri with Sichuan pepper, onion, ginger, garlic, and Nepali spice. I added some lamb to get a bit extra. The nan was with garlic. He had me first try the Cobra beer from India (after getting it, I remembered that I had it once before in Lisbon) and then he said I must try a Nepalese beer… excellent. Much more carbonation and natural taste.

This is just an American talking here, but… it seems that when you eat out in various countries, if you eat at a “local” restaurant, you’ll likely get good food, but the attitude that comes with it really puts me off—they’re doing you a favor by deigning to have you seated in their establishment. However, if you choose an ethnic restaurant, well, like you, they are the foreigners. They know what it is like to be a stranger in a strange land and so, to me, they are so much kinder and helpful. Look, I willingly admit, I don’t know what I’m doing half the time and I sure as heck don’t know what I’m ordering, so when you ask, “What do you recommend?” the locals will roll their eyes, but the foreigners like you will smile and be so very helpful. Something about it in Leviticus (perhaps 19:33-34) but I won’t get preachy.

There is a park behind my hotel that I can see from the window…

…so on the way, in an attempt to walk off some of that meal, I took a stroll. Beautiful flowers that my brother would be disgusted with me if I didn’t stop and smell. So, for the brother…

And don’t forgetting be the babbling fountain:

As I stood next to the water, these two came cruising by…

The last two days have been the most relaxing of the expedition (although I’ve loved it all—except maybe for the long bus trip, but I did get to see the Eiffel Tower and I was in Paris), and on several occasions, I have caught myself smiling for no dang reason at all. Those around me probably think they have a crazy person on their hands, but… No… just me. It is a good feeing to smile for no reason at all.

I think I’ll work on my short story for a bit longer, then do some reading. I’m very much into Haruki Murakami these days and have been working through 1Q84, which is delightfully Murakami.

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