The kindness of strangers. Be thankful and give them thanks. It is as though they want you to succeed.
When I woke up this morning, I was a bit nervous to move. I was afraid that yesterday I mightโve hurt something or pulled something or was just too dang tired to move. Everything seems to be in order. Another thing to give thanks for. ๏ฟผ
6 miles in. Nothing but climbing. A verse to meditate uponโฆ Do not worry about tomorrow for today has enough concerns of its own.โฆ Do not look up the hill. Just keep putting one foot in front of another. Just look a couple of feet ahead. If you look up the hill, you begin to think you wonโt make it. If you look a couple of feet of head, thatโs as far as you have to go. And thenโฆ A couple of more feet. Youโll make it.
I was very nervous about this stage. A climb of 3000 feet. The smartest thing I did was to have my backpack shipped ahead. I have a small day pack that I added, my water, wallet, and a few other necessities and called it good. Bottom line: according to everything Iโve heard and read, I have made it through my most difficult day. From here itโs not easy, but itโs not as hard. Iโll keep you posted on that one.
Along the way, almost at the top, and the small chapel at the top.
I was ever so happy to see the top of the church in Roncesvalles.
To be only slightly indelicate, I donโt think Iโve sweated this much in my life. It was only 51ยฐ but my goodness. Therefore, today is laundry day. hoping the sun will dry everything nicely.
After praying my Rosary, I did some walking about. Came to the tomb of Sancho VII the Strong of Navarre who died in 1234 ad. The Chains of Navarre are a part of the coat of arms of Navarre. Legend has it that the Caliph of the Moors had a human shield of slaves that were chained together. Sanchoโs army attacked the Moors, broke the chains of the slaves, and the Caliph fled.
I did find THE sign. Apparently it was placed many years ago, when no one was entirely sure exactly how far it was. The new marker is probably correct. I think by saying Santiago is 790km from here is a bit like saying, So-and-So went out in the desert with God for 50 years. The 50 years isnโt exact, but is really good way of saying, โNo one is certain how long So-and-So was out there, but it was quite a long time.โ No one is entirely certain how far Santiago is, but it is going to take you a while to get there.
After my wanderings, I stopped for a large water at the local pub. There are many pilgrims mingling, meeting, and talking, but so far, I really havenโt had an interest in any of it. When I was in the place of the king, I was the only one there, and it was so very quiet and peaceful. I guess for now, Iโm enjoying walking and praying and being at peace with the world and myself. Maybe later.
Confession is available in ten minutes, then a Mass at 8 p.m. followed by the blessing of pilgrims. Be back later. It will be an early night, that is for certain.
I didnโt understand a word, but the Mass was beautiful and they called all the pelegrinos forward and gave us a blessing. The confession bitโฆ the schedule was off, so I did not get to make confession before Mass, but a lovely older priest took the time afterward to hear my confession. Only thing, he did not speak English, but we both decided that God would hear and know and that it would be good. It was. He then insisted on giving me communion again from the reserved Sacrament.
11.4 miles today / 21,800 steps. Tomorrow, I walk to Zubiri. Map says that it is 13.26 miles.
It is difficult to find a church that is open. I suspect most of the problem is related to the shortage of clergy and the decline of Christianity in Europe. it did not stop me from praying. I sat outside and enjoyed the cool breeze.
11:45am. Arrived in Arnรฉguy. 5.5 miles. Be very careful of traffic for that first mile coming out of SJPDP. At times, there is no shoulder and many fast moving cars. If not for the kindness of strangers, I would currently be climbing a steep hill, only to have to backtrack. Instead, Iโm having a brief rest, cafรฉ, and lite second breakfast (Nutella filled croissant.) Less than three miles to Valcarlos. A good portion of this section will be off road.
1:53pm. Valcarlos. The last hill coming in is penance for a multitude of sins.
The backpack is designed so that the belt across the waist places much of the weight on the hips. That way you are not carrying the weight on your shoulders. Itโs a good thing. The only problem is that as a 59-year-old maleโฆ wellโฆ I ainโt got no hips.
I do believe that all of my preparation and walking leading up to this has prepared me nicely for about 95% of the Camino. However, it did not prepare me for today which means I will definitely not be prepared for tomorrow. Iโll sort it out, but I do confess that I had one of those โWhat the hell was I thinking?โ moments. I somehow suspect that it will not be my last.
In my humble opinion, prep all you want, but nothing gets you ready for the Pyrenees.
Went for a short walk here in town and found a nice glass of wine. Afterward I went and prayed my rosary and then returned to my room. The hostess, Alejandra, here at Etexeale is listening to Aguas de Marรงo (feat. Fernanda Takai). I asked Siri to identify the song for me. It was brilliant. I feel like Iโm in some foreign movie and I love those. She is also cooking and I donโt know whatโs for supper tonight, but it smells absolutely brilliant. The long and arduous walk up today is almost forgotten. My body seems to be remembering it a little bit and may remind me of it in the morning, but for nowโฆ Right as rain.
For the record, I did hire a service to carry the pack to Roncesvalles. It was just too intimidating. The distance is about the same as today, but the climbโฆ Oy! It was a great relief to make that decision.
In my walking about I came across a little bit of local history. This is a Basque thing.
โTo the Basque People who fought their Liberty here and emerged victorious over Charlemagne.โ
Not for to go nowโฆ๐ณ
Dinner is almost ready. Weโre now being serenaded by La Maison Prรจs / De La Fontaine.
I cannot recommend this place enough. Dinner: a salad with pickled carrots and onions on a bed of lettuce with her own balsamic olive oil dressing. Followed by a traditional Spanish stew of potatoes, artichokes, and sausage and a light tomato sauce. Dessert consisted of a slice of hard French cheese (almost crunchy), a thin slice of a thick Quince jelly, and walnuts–Membrillo. A traditional Spanish dessert. If I had known this meal was waiting at the end of the road today, the road would have been much shorter.
Itโs time for a shower, and to put my feet up for a little while. I hope you all have a blessed evening.
It is 43ยฐ F and raining. Any other time and place, that would be a perfect excuse to stay at home and stay warm. However, being here, thatโs really not an option. Today I can sleep late, but tomorrow they are going to kick me out come rain or shine. Though nuanced with gray clouds, the perfectly blue sky is still out there. Time to go enjoy it and live a life. FYI: cod stew makes for some very wild dreams.
Flashback to trip to Lisbonโฆ I washed clothes last night and with great apprehension, I felt them today. No hairdryer required.
I have spent the day walking around. It rained most of the morning and part of the afternoon but the sun is trying to come out now. I prayed my rosary at a beautiful church, and then had a delicious lunch at Comme ร la Maison. Very quaint little restaurant. Five stars in my book.
Afterwards I made my way up the hill a short ways to the pilgrims office. Had to wait in line for about half an hour, but it was a cheerful place. As large group from South Korea in front of me. ๏ฟผEveryone was quite excited.
I then made my way indoorsโฆ
And there it is. My first stamp.
Each day on the Camino, a pilgrim must receive a stamp in their โCredencial del Peregrinoโ as proof they have been there. it is the pilgrims passport. Note to self: donโt lose it!
Iโm going to be still and quiet for the rest of the day. Tomorrow morning I start walking. My first stop isnโt too far and not that difficultโValcarlosโ about 7 miles. It will be one of my shorter days, but Thursday is all uphill. There is no need to worry about that today though. ๏ฟผ
I did not know I was tired until I slept and I did not know I was hungry until I ate. What a good night. I spent the night in the Mercure hotel in Bordeaux. A delightful place. The staff were very kind, even though I donโt speak a lick of French. Maybe they all roll their eyes after I turned away but I didnโt see it. I also did not sense it. Which I think is even more important. Check out is not until noon but I think Iโll pack things up here and head over to the train station. What better place to watch humanity. More later.
11:34 a.m. I am at the train station. Iโm looking for pilgrims, but I have not seen one yet. I suppose in one way or another we are all pilgrims, but Iโm looking for some very specific ones. I would like to wish someone, Buen Camino.
11:41 a.m. and as I stand here, I just remembered Blaine the Mono. Stephen King fans unite!
12:19 p.m. I have met my first pilgrim, although she walked it two years ago. She saw the Cross of St. James on my pack (thank you, Dana, for sewing them onโI havenโt forgotten our deal!) I am smiling. Becoming more real.
1:10 p.m. I just began The Road to Daybreak by Henri Nouwen. The first two sentences: โThis is the first day of my new life! Though it sounds melodramatic, I cannot avoid feeling that something significant is starting today.โ Ummmโฆ..
2:23 p.m. on the train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Many pilgrims.
3:24.
4:21 p.m. Arrived at my apartment for the next two nights. It is lovelyโGรฎtes Vue Montagne St-Jean-Pied-de Port. Five stars and I havenโt even checked out the bed.
7:53 p.m. I walked back into town to find a bite to eat and a few groceries for the next couple of days. Not much. Just a few eggs and bread. Iโll go back in tomorrow for a bigger meal.
As I walked, I was thinking about the pilgrims I metโฆ no, โmetโ is the wrong wordโฆ encountered or bumped into along the way today. *WE* were all still caught up in our normal lives. We were rushing and pushing and jostling. We were not good pilgrims (I donโt even know that we are pilgrims yet.) We were our normal selves. Always in a hurry. Always checking the clock. Always believing that our journey is of utmost importance. Not true Young Grasshoppa. Thisโin my no miles on the Camino, yet, opinionโis not the Way of St. James.
St. James was guided by an angel to his final resting place in Santiago. Perhaps, instead of guiding our own path, we allow Godโs holy angels to guide usโฆ is that a statement or a question?
I prayed the Rosary today in a beautiful church. I understood that I was at the foot of the cross with Mary. I had my left hand on Jesus foot and Mary had a hand on mine. Mary had her right hand on Jesusโ other foot and I had my other hand on hers. We stood side by side. At first, I was distracted by the others coming and going, but Mary said for me not to listen to them. She said that I was to listen for His voiceโthat He would speak to me along the way. I will listen.
I lit a candle and asked her to pray for me along The Way. She will.
It is 11:09 AM and I am in the airport in Oklahoma City. My flight doesnโt leave for a couple more hours so I stopped for some breakfast. It was Andy who drove me to the airport and he took a before photo.
The next leg of the journey will take me from here to DFW, where I have another short layover before heading out to Paris.
The flight to Dallas was uneventful and short. I am hopeful that the next flight will at least be uneventful! It will be long…. about 10 hours/5,231 miles. I hope to sleep which is something I can never do on a plane. Donโt take that as complaining! I get to do this thing. Having a few French fries before boarding because you never really know about what will be served.
It is 12:02 Paris time and we are taxing to the runway at DFW.
Sunrise at 37,000 feet. About an hour out from Paris.
Arrived in Paris without any trouble. Only was able to sleep for about an hour or so. I wish I could learn to do that. Sleep on the plane that is. Took a taxi to the Montparnasse train station, and then waited on the train.
Arrived in Bordeaux. 24 1/2 hours after I left. Long trip but not a complaint. I see sleeping in Babyland in my future.
A room with a pretty nice view.
I have two trains tomorrow, but really a pretty easy day. Only about three hours of traveling and then I will be at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I have two nights there, which Iโm really looking forward to. Not only will it give me the opportunity to rest up from the trip, but I can also explore the town at a leisurely pace.
In the final hours leading up to departure from Sherwood Forest, I am finally at rest. Everything is packed, and the house is clean. If I have forgotten it, I probably don’t need it. If it is not clean, it’s probably not all that dirty. I now sit with a glass of wine and a movie that I found–The Wall (I know nothing about it, but the blurb says it is a tour-de-force performance by Martina Gedeck. I don’t know her either, but I’m glad she had a forceful tour.)
The alarm is set for 7:30 a.m. tomorrow. My trusty chauffeur will be picking me up at 9:00 a.m. (trusty chauffeur is good for a snarky comment below.) Roughly 24 hours after I wake up in the a.m., I will be landing in Paris. Bonjour. Merci. Parlez vous Francais? Nope. I’m from Oklahoma, and the only thing we parlez vous around here is… well, I was hoping for another Come-for-da-bull joke there, but it didn’t work out.
The Queen is on her perch, glaring down at me. She is beginning to catch on and the claws are flexing. Maybe I’ll make it out the door before she goes all screaming terrorist.
You all have a good night’s rest. I’ll try and update tomorrow, but I’m not sure how all that will work out, so it will likely be sometime Sunday and I’ll be in Bordeaux, France (poor me…. bwaahahahaha.) With that, “Good night, and good morning, in case we don’t talk before that!)
I’ve packed and repacked the backpack about 6 times now. In the process, I’ve lightened the load by 7 pounds and got the weight down to 25lbs, which includes water. Several items in the first picture did not make the cut. The only real luxury item is the iPad. On a shorter trip, I might consider leaving it at home, but I plan on doing some other writing while I’m there, and a keyboard attached to the phone just wouldn’t work.
I’ve done plenty of walking with weight, so I believe all shall be well. If not, all my pictures will be of me sitting on a beach somewhere in Europe (life could be a lot worse.)
I’ve scheduled sixty days on the Camino with 46 walking days and 14 days off. This is what those stages look like, but could change once I’m there.
It looks a bit overwhelming when I look at some of the daily distances, but then I remember that it is not a race–although those 15+ mile days are a bit intimidating. On average, I’ll be walking 4 to 5 hours per day. Walk for a couple of hours in the morning, have lunch, have a siesta by the gurgling fountain, walk for a couple more hours, take off the boots, and enjoy the rest of the day. No problem (and everyone reading this rolls their eyes!)
I fly out on Saturday and arrive in Paris on Sunday Morning. From Paris, I take a train to Bordeaux where I’ll spend the night. The following day is a train ride to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, where I’ll spend two nights getting my days in order and breathing. The pilgrimage officially begins on Wednesday, April 10th. If all goes well, I’ll be in Santiago around June 10th. Regardless of what happens, I’ll need to be back in Paris by June 26th–that’s my return flight.
In a conversation with C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien said, โWe have come from God, and inevitably the myths woven by us, though they contain error, will also reflect a splintered fragment of the true light, the eternal truth that is with God.โ Within our legends and myths, there is a certain amount of truth. The same is true with what I would like to share todayโa combination of facts, myths, and legends, and it all begins in the year 43 B.C. We can read about it in the Acts of the Apostles.
โHerod the king laid violent hands on some who belonged to the church. He killed James the brother of John with the sword, and when he saw that it pleased the Jews, he proceeded to arrest Peter also.โ (Acts 12:1-3a) The Apostle James, brother of John and son of Zebedee, was martyred by beheading. It is from there that our legend begins.
Following his death, his followers, wanting to provide a proper burial for him but also wanting his body to be kept safe, took it to the coast, where they boarded a stone boat. The boat had no rudder or sail but was guided by an angel, which took it on a long journey across the Mediterranean, through the Strait of Gibraltar, and up to the northwest corner of Spain.
At this same time, a father was throwing a huge wedding party for his son. There was food, drinks, dancing, and games. One of the games played was abofardarโthe men, riding horses, would take a spear and hurl it into the air as high and far as they could, then, charging forward, they would attempt to catch the spear before it hit the groundโvery safe. The groomโs turn came, and he gave the spear a mighty throw. However, he was so focused on the spear that he paid little attention to where his horse was going, and he plummeted into the sea and disappeared. There was high tension as the crowd watched and waited for him to surface. Finally, he did. A way out from shore, the groom and horse popped up. Fortunately for them, there was a boat directly beside them. It was the stone boat carrying the body of the Apostle James.
After rescuing the groom and the horse, it was discovered that they were both covered in scallop shells. The followers of James on the boat saw this as a miracle, so the scallop shell became a symbol of all who were saved by coming to St. James.
Following these events, the body of St. James was secretly buried and essentially lost for almost 800 years until a hermit, Pelayo, noticed strange lights in the sky. Following the lights, Pelayo came to a field where he discovered the hidden tomb. He informed his Bishop, who, with several others, went to investigate and were able to determine that it was, in fact, the remains of the Apostle. A church was built over the tomb, and later a cathedral. The city that grew up around it that supported the pilgrims who came to venerate the saint was named Santiago de Compostella. Santiago is translated as St. James, and Compostella means โfield of lights.โ For the last 1,200 years, saints and sinners, lay people and clerics, rich and poor, popes and kings, have made the pilgrimage to pray before the remains of St. James the Greatโone who was so very close and dear to Jesus.
The pilgrimage is called the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James, and the starting point for many is Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which means St. John at the Foot of the Passโthe pass is the one that takes you over the Pyrenees Mountains, from France into Spain. On April 10th of this year, I will rename this town Jean-Pied-de-PortโJohn at the Foot of the Pass (unless, of course, Iโm sainted in the next month, then Iโll keep it the same.) The French Way, the route I will be taking, is the most popular and the one pilgrims have walked for 1,200 years.
Iโll take more time and make more stops, but there are traditionally 31 stops along the way, and early on, pilgrims would make the journey there and back, so with the Cathedral counting as their destination, you would have 63 stops. As they did not have the benefit of GPS and a well-marked trail, early pilgrims relied on various maps, one of which was created by the Templars. That early map has evolved into a game still played today (and one our kids will have the opportunity to play while Iโm away)โThe Royal Game of the Goose. Thus enter Albert the Goose. Why a goose?
It was the Templars who were charged with protecting pilgrims as they made the pilgrimage, and so it was the Templars who made the original map. Looking at our game board, you will see many of the squares have symbols in them. The meaning of most of the symbols is lost. Still, the labyrinth could represent physical and spiritual growth, a well might represent a lousy day, and a bridgeโalthough it may be a specific bridgeโcan also represent a spiritual crossing. And then there is the goose. For the Templars, the goose represented wisdom, and throughout the Camino, if you keep your eyes open, you will see a goose carved in the base of a statue or a distinctive goose track in various locations. There are also towns with โGooseโ in their names: Villafranca de Montes de Oca, Castrojeriz (city of geese), El Ganso, Ocรณn, Puerto de Oca, Manjarรญn (man of geese). (Source) While Iโm away, Albert will also be traveling, and you may find him at your front door looking for a place to rest.
In the very early days of the Camino, there were tens of thousands of pilgrims, but the numbers waned due to wars and other issues. Eventually, it nearly fell out of use, and in 1979, only twelve people completed the walk. However, popularity has increased dramatically. Last year, which was considered a holy year, over 442,000 individuals walked a Camino.
To officially walk a Camino, you must walk at least 100km (62 miles). From St-Jean, where Iโll start, it is 800km (500 miles), and last year, of the 442,000, about 23,000 made that distance. For each, regardless of the distance, the shellโlike the one attached to the groom and his horseโhas become the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. It is what designates a pilgrimโthey attach one to their pack or hatโand it is what marks The Way, with signposts, wayfaring markers, and various marks in the road.
Finally, the Camino de Santiago is a physical exerciseโputting one foot in front of the other for 500 milesโbut more than that, it is a spiritual exercise. It is a journey of the soul. It is a way of letting go of all except the most necessary and, hopefully, along The Way, discovering that all you truly need is God and a few items you can carry on your back. As I walk, I hope to declutter my mind and my soul, and just as I might leave some gear that I donโt use along the way, I hope to leave the clutter and discover that life is far simpler than we make it.
I will be on the Camino for 60 days, and Iโll be out for fourteen weeks. I will be very out of touch, but I will pray for you every day. As Iโve told several people, St. Matthewโs was around for 125 years before I got here, so I know youโll be just fine and in very capable hands. I encourage you to participate in the events and activities that have been planned. In the process, you might just discover the spirit of the Camino and find The Way opening up before you.
Let us pray (this is the traditional pilgrimโs prayer that was written in the 12th century):
O God, who brought your servant Abraham out of the land of the Chaldeans, protecting him in his wanderings, who guided the Hebrew people across the desert, we ask that you watch over us, your servants, as we walk in the love of your name.
Be for us our companion on the walk, Our guide at the crossroads, Our breath in our weariness, Our protection in danger, Our refuge on the Camino, Our shade in the heat, Our light in the darkness, Our consolation in our discouragements, And our strength in our intentions.
So that with your guidance we may arrive safe and sound at the end of the Road and enriched with grace and virtue we return safely to our homes filled with joy. In the name of Jesus Christ our Lord, Amen.
St. James the Greater, pray for us. Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for us.
Candle in a Cave 