Santiago –> Madrid: Day Eight

Well, the day was a busy one. I got up, had some breakfast, packed the bags, and headed down to the church. After a full day, including the mass at 4 p.m., I came back to the Casa to discover that there were no taxis available in all of Santiago. Two and a half kilometers later, I arrived at the train station after a nice, slow walk. Along the way, I stopped at a pastry shop and picked up something for breakfast in the morning. Three hours on the train, and I am now at my hotel in Madrid. The Casa Anglicana had a nice little bathroom that was about two and a half by six feet, maybe. The hot water tank in my room held two gallons, so each morning was a mad dash to beat the hot water before it ran out. Arriving at the Crowne Plaza Madrid Airport Hotel, I may have drained their hot water tank. It was really nice. I do believe it’s time for some sleep.

For those who are interested, here is a link to the book that I put together while I was here. I will tell you that the information is very interesting. The pictures are as good as I could take. And the layoutโ€”well, it’s a little wanting. It’s really difficult to publish books with pictures on Amazon. Anyhow, if it’s something you are interested in, you can go to Amazon and purchase a copy. Or, if you drop me a note, I will be more than happy to send you a free PDF version of it. The history of that one little church and all of the churches in Santiago is actually quite fascinating.

Santiago (et al): Day Four

This was my day off and it was whirlwind tour day: Muros, Hรณrreo de Carnota, Xallas, Cape Finisterre, Fisterra, Muxia, and Ponte Maceira. Here we goโ€ฆ

Muros: a beautifully preserved Galician fishing town where granite arcades, narrow streets, and sea all come together. Its harbor still feels genuinely working rather than staged for visitors.

We only had 45 minutes here, so I headed straight for the Church of Santa Maria do Campo (the traditional name) / Igrexa San Pedro (current parish name).

The plate outside states: Currently, it is the parish church of Muros. From its original construction, in the 13th century, the Romanesque faรงade must be highlighted. Inside, there is an example of the Maritime Gothic style, with a single nave made of several wide pointed arches, which give the building the shape of an upturned ship. This building was converted into a Collegiate Church in the year 1500, thanks to the privilege granted to the town by the papal bull of Alexandre VI. After the conversion, successive improvement works were promoted, such as the creation of side chapels, a baptistery and a tower bell, which was built by the Guild of Fishermen, one of the main benefactors of the tempie. In 1851, surrounded by the political conflicts of the 19th century, the temple lost its status of Collegiate Church. Inside the church, the water font is remarkable due to its ubmerged sculpture of a snake that symbolizes triumph over sin.

Yeah. Itโ€™s a snake!

Insideโ€ฆ

Beautiful statues in the many side altarsโ€ฆ

And thenโ€ฆ the scariest Jesus Iโ€™ve ever seen! My goodness, these Spaniards have a way of making a point.

One of the primary โ€œcropsโ€ of Muros is muscles. There are many farms. These long ropes are dangled below the floating farms and the muscles attach, grow, and are harvested.

Hรณrreo de Carnota: A hรณrreo is a traditional raised granary found especially in Galicia and Asturias in northern Spain. It was built to store corn, grain, potatoes, and other food while keeping them dry and safe from rodents.

Most are about this sizeโ€ฆ

The design is such that mice could climb up the pillars but the small round top of the pillars that the building sits on is flat and the little vermin couldnโ€™t navigate them. The slats on the sides are for airflow. They are no longer used, but if one is on your property, you are required to keep it standing and repaired as they are considered part of the regional heritage.

As I said above, most are smaller, but we saw one of the largestโ€ฆ

Who would need such a large hรณrreo? Why the Church, of course. At the time, farmers were required to tithe 10% and the Church needed somewhere to store it all. See a big hรณrreo, look aroundโ€ฆ the church will not be far.

Xallas: Everything is big in Xallas and this was a big waterfall. Over 100 feet high. The water at the bottom is a combination of sweet water and salt water as the Atlantic Ocean is very near. In the past, the waterfall was much greater, but most of the water is now running a hydroelectric plant.

Cape Finisterra: We are now traveling along the the Costa da Morta (Coast of Death), getting its name from all the shipwrecks.

Enter the Raqueiros. These bandits supposedly put false lights along the shoreโ€”one famous version says lanterns were attached to cattleโ€”so sailors would mistake them for safe harbor lights, steer toward shore, wreck on the rocks, and leave their cargo available for plunder. There were plenty of ships to plunder after they wrecked, but apparently an archbishop declared that all found property belonged to original owner and had to be returned. Yeahโ€ฆ and they also outlawed liquor in the USA for a while. Iโ€™ll let you figure out if said archbishop was obeyed. The actual lighthouseโ€ฆ

For many years, it was considered to be the end of the world, and it is easy to see why: no more beyond.

Enid, Oklahoma is about 4,500 miles away, straight across the Atlantic.

My artistic shotโ€ฆ

Fisterra: We stopped for lunch and I forgot to take pictures! It was goodโ€”Longueirรณn (Knives) from Fisterra and Galician Scallops. And then to the place Iโ€™ve been waiting forโ€ฆ

Muxia: Iโ€™ll let the pictures do the talking here, but will tell you that I was right down there below that big rock with red dot.

I posted a video on Facebook if you can get to it.

There is a church, but a lightning strike started a fire and it was gutted. Repairs are underway.

And just being weird here, but there was a large pile of rubble outside the building that the workers had been clearing out. Caught one of them on a smoke break and asked for a piece. He smiled and found me a good one. Yeah. Itโ€™s concrete, but it was closeโ€ฆ

Last stopโ€”Ponte Maceira: a bridge that spans the Tambre River on the Camino from Santiago toward Fisterra. According to medieval legend, Saint Jamesโ€™s disciples, Theodore and Athanasius, crossed an earlier bridge here while fleeing Roman soldiers after seeking permission to bury the Apostle. As their pursuers followed, the bridge miraculously collapsed, leaving the disciples safely across the river. The present medieval bridge came centuries later, but its seven stone arches still carry the memory of that miraculous escape. 

That was nine hours of my life that I wouldnโ€™t trade. Such an amazing and rich history here. Google these towns and ask about the legends surrounding them, especially regarding the Camino de Santiago and St. James. Fascinating.

I pray you are all well.

Santiago: Day Three

Sunday started a bit slower here than at home. The Mass wasnโ€™t until 12:30 p.m. I may have to talk to the vestry about a new time for church! There were eight in attendance, but for a very Roman Catholic community, that was pretty good. Wasnโ€™t quite as nervous today as I was the first time.

I did remember to take a picture of the churchโ€ฆ

    I also found my way to the small balconyโ€ฆ

    It is quite lovely.

    This afternoon I spent nursing a very sore back and editing six chapters of Birdy. This evening, the back is better after I located a pharmacy for a little something to salve it with.

    I also spent more time this afternoon researching the artwork in San Fiz. Iโ€™m planning on putting together a small booklet to share with the Anglican community so that others might benefit from it. In the process, I came across a very curious symbol at the bottom of the retable, just below the statue of Maryโ€ฆ

    No. It is not, โ€œShow me the money!โ€

    An S pierced by what at first appears to be an arrow. The key is recognizing it as a nailโ€”clavo in Spanish. Together they form a visual wordplay: S + clavo = esclavo, โ€œslave.โ€

    The emblem was used by Spanish religious confraternities whose members described themselves as esclavos of Christ, the Blessed Sacrament, or the Virgin Mary. Here โ€œslaveโ€ expressed complete, voluntary devotional surrender rather than literal bondage. Examples of the S-and-nail device can be traced to Spanish religious practice at least as far back as the late sixteenth century, with particularly clear Marian examples in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

    Thus, what looks like a curious decorative mark at San Fiz is actually a small theological declaration: I belong entirely to God.

    I like that! And I may need some ink.

    After a Middle Eastern lunch at Jerusalem, very tasty, I wandered around and attempted to be artsy.

    Came back to the Casa to unload the pack and cassock and then back out for dinner. I had a real hankering for curry, but all the places I found were closed, so chose Ramen Okaeri. Guess what? They serve curry and it was delicious!

    I started with an Asahi and the Takoyaki (octopus balls):

    And finished up with Curry rice with prawn tempura:

    Feeling particularly fat and happy. Ohโ€ฆ and there was a โ€œCUTEโ€ cat that watched over it all:

    That was my day. Tomorrow I am โ€œoffโ€ and will be taking a tour through Finisterre, Muxรญa, ร‰zaro & Coast of Death (Iโ€™ve no idea what that is).

    They are singing down in the garden here, so I may have to go see what the peregrinos are up to.

    Looking out the window from my room.

    And todayโ€™s selfie (it was taken in what will later be known as my artsy phase)โ€ฆ

    Have a blessed day.

    Santiago: Day Two

    This is definitely a working vacation. I am the only clergy serving the Casa Anglicana and St. Fiz Church (still forgot the photo). The Casa is full with 32 guests and the churchโ€ฆ

    From 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., I blessed many rosaries, heard confessions, prayed the midday office and the Mass, and welcomed over 400 visitors to the church. I also got chewed out on two separate occasions by little Spanish ladies who are not pleased with we Anglican apostates using their church (I survived both chewings and the bonus, I didnโ€™t understand a word, but got the point). It was a very big day. Also a glorious one.

    Afterward, I slipped off my cassock, grabbed a cold beer, and took in a few sightsโ€”first the church at the Convent of St. Francis was open. As it is not one of the big tourist hangouts, it was quiet and beautiful.

    After that, I did some random people-watching, then stumbled into an even quieter courtyard. I can relate, Alonso III de Fonseca. I can relate.

    The courtyard was lovely.

    Coming back to the Casa, I passed in front of the Cathedral and watched the Martins swooping between the spires. Thinking they might have been Swallows, I was reminded of a passage from Treatise on the Love of God by St. Francis de Sales:

    There are certain birds, Theotimus, which Aristotle calls apodes, because having extremely short legs, and feeble feet, they use them no more than if they had none.

    And if ever they light upon the ground they must remain there, so that they can never take flight again of their own powerโ€ฆ hence they remain there motionless, and die, unless some wind, propitious to their impotenceโ€ฆ happen to seize upon and bear them up.

    He then writes,

    But we mortals rather resemble apodesโ€ฆ

    And concludes,

    The wind that raises the apodes blows first upon their feathersโ€ฆ

    Yet, it is the wind of divine love that must blow upon us should we ever choose to โ€œlight upon the ground,โ€ that is, step outside of Godโ€™s love and grace.

    Lesson: never โ€œlight upon the ground,โ€ but remain always in flight of Godโ€™s grace. However, if you choose to try and โ€œwalkโ€ alone, and find that you canโ€™t, pray for Wind. It will find you.

    This also reminds me of someone I visited with today. I felt a breeze around them.

    I pray you are well.

    Oklahoma City Museum of Art: “Flaming June”


    Exhibit: The Sense of Beauty: Six Centuries of Painting from Museo De Arte De Ponce. Flaming June is a painting I have loved since I first saw it… probably in my 20s. It made its way to the top of the things to do when I heard it would be showing in OKC. It was worth the wait!

    Miguel Trelles
    Puerto Rican, b. 1969
    Philanthropist, 2000
    Oil on canvas
    Raised in an academic and literate environment, Miguel Trelles is an artist, curator, and cultural manager based in New York City’s Lower East Side, committed to increasing the visibility of the Latino community in the city’s visual and performing arts scenes. His artistic work is notable for blending elements of Chinese and Latin American cultures.
    For this work, Trelles drew inspiration from figures such as American philanthropist Paul Mellon and Luis A. Ferrรฉ, founder of the Museo de Arte de Ponce, who was a key supporter of his artistic career from the beginning.
    The subject of the painting appears seated on a sofa, while an early modern portrait hangs on the wall behind him. This painting within a painting serves as a nod to the philanthropist’s role as a collector, highlighting the connection between art and patronage.

    William-Adolphe Bouguereau
    French, 1825-1905
    Far from Home, 1868
    Oil on canvas
    This canvas was among the first artworks acquired by Luis A. Ferrรฉ for the Museo de Arte de Ponce. It depicts two young sisters who survive by performing music and begging on the streets of Rome. William-Adolphe Bouguereau’s idealized figures, set against a classical-inspired architectural background, illustrate the theme of poverty without the harsh realism that can be unsettling. A polished finish, muted color palette, and classical poses define his work. Although Bouguereau stayed a dedicated supporter of the academic style throughout his career, this painting reveals an interest in the new themes that emerged during the second half of the nineteenth century, when increased social awareness led to the portrayal of scenes from daily life.

    Lucas Cranach the Elder German, 1472-1553
    Judith with the Head of Holofernes, ca. 1527-1537
    Oil on panel
    Lucas Cranach the Elder served as a court painter for the prince-electors of Saxony, who were based in Wittenberg. At the court, he befriended Martin Luther and supported his criticism of the Catholic Church.
    In this powerful portrayal of Judith, the heroine of the Old Testament, Cranach depicts her as victorious after beheading Holofernes, the Assyrian general who was besieging her city. Juxtaposing serene beauty with gruesome triumph, she is elegantly dressed in a red velvet contemporary gown trimmed with brocaded fabric and a pearl-embroidered trunk. She holds the enemy’s head with her slashed gloves, which reveal her lavish rings. Her gentle face, with the delicate features typical of the artist, is framed by the golden halo of her hair and jewel-encrusted necklaces. Judith’s story has been interpreted as an allegory of the struggle between good and evil, and, therefore, Cranach may have envisioned this composition as a symbol of the battle between the Protestant Reformation and the Catholic Church.

    Domรฉnikos Theotokรณpoulos, “El Greco” l
    Greek, 1541-1614
    Saint Francis of Assisi in Meditation with Brother Leo, ca. 1600-
    1605
    Oil on canvas
    Representations of Saint Francis of Assisi, especially those depicting his ascetic and contemplative life, exemplified the Christian life that the faithful were expected to follow according to the principles of the Counter-Reformation, initiated by the Council of Trent (1545-1563) to strengthen
    Catholic influence in response to the Protestant Reformation. Art played a crucial role in this effort, aiming to inspire faith and devotion through the visual expression of spiritual intensity.
    Building on the popularity of devotional art, El Greco created numerous depictions of the saint, with more than 30 versions of the composition showing
    Saint Francis alongside Brother Leon, his secretary and confessor. To meet the growing demand for devotional paintings, El Greco relied on the help of his assistants. Contemporary sources describe the small samples he would show clients, from which they could choose their preferred composition, with the value based on the artist’s involvement. The painting’s dramatic lighting and elongated forms are characteristic of El Greco’s style.

    Pedro Machuca
    Spanish, ca. 1490-1550
    The Descent of the Holy Ghost, ca. 1520-1530
    Oil on panel
    On the Christian feast of Pentecost, the Virgin Mary and the twelve apostles gathered in Jerusalem. During this gathering, they witnessed a miracle: the Holy Ghost, depicted as a dove surrounded by a large halo, descended into the room and empowered everyone to speak different languages, enabling them to preach the Gospel in foreign lands.
    The Spanish painter Pedro Machuca worked in Rome, most likely in Raphael’s renowned workshop, before returning to Spain in 1520. It is believed that he created this intensely emotional piece after returning to the Iberian Peninsula.
    Machuca brought with him artistic innovations that were popular in Italy at the time. The painting demonstrates the use of perspective and naturalistic figures, similar to the works of the great masters of the Italian Renaissance.
    Its horizontal format suggests that it was originally used as a predella for an altarpiece that would have been placed above it. This panel was one of sixteen Italian and Spanish paintings donated to the Museo de Arte de Ponce by the Samuel H. Kress Foundation in 1962.


    Andrew Peters
    Sandhill Cranes on the Great
    Migration

    Oil, gold, wood, metal | 60 ร— 60 ร— 12 in.

    Scott Burdick
    Transcending Time

    Paul Moore
    Moon Over the Pueblo
    Oil on canvas | 20 x 20 in.

    Frederic Leighton
    English, 1830-1896
    Flaming June, ca. 1895
    Oil on canvas
    Flaming June, an iconic work in art history, has been widely reproduced, cementing its place in our cultural consciousness. Its reproductive value was highlighted in one of its earliest reviews, a trait appreciated by its first owner, the publisher of an illustrated newspaper, who admired and promoted it by distributing free reproductions to his subscribers as a Christmas gift. The contemporary audience undoubtedly revered its creator, Frederic Leighton, who was then president of the Royal Academy of Arts in London. The work was one of six paintings Leighton displayed at the Academy’s summer exhibition in 1895, just months before he died in January 1896.
    Flaming June results from an extensive creative process where the artist experimented with multiple sketches to capture the complex posture of a woman reclining before a Mediterranean seascape. The painting echoes some of the artist’s earlier works and draws inspiration from historical masterpieces, including classical Greek sculptures and Renaissance artworks, especially those by Michelangelo. The interplay of line, color, and light offers a unique interpretation of Mediterranean antiquity, captured in the slumber of a sensual female form.
    Luis A. Ferrรฉ’s acquisition of the painting in 1963 for the Museo de Arte de Ponce, during a time when Victorian art was undervalued-this piece had been out of the public eye for more than three decades-reflects the philosophy of Ferrรฉ and his advisors, who aimed to acquire
    “pictures of quality, irrespective of their ‘fashion’ in the market,” thus contributing to the formation of the museum’s exceptional collection.

    Travel: Luxembourg (Vacation Day)

    It was a rather noisy beginning todayโ€”the renovation of the room above me started. I said, to myself, โ€œSelf, you need to do penance, so just endure,โ€ but then my selfish self said, โ€œNope. Not while on vacation!โ€ So, I did something very much unlike me, I asked for a new room. The staff was kind and understanding and understood that I can do penance when I return home, and gave me a new room. Very nice.

    Once settled, I did something unusual for someone who is about 5,000 miles from home, I spent the day writing. The mind took an amazing journey and I put down many words (even ran out of ink in my pen and had to go in search of a new one!)

    I do believe the next vaca will be a writing retreat. We shall see. The story (have I already mentioned this) is Execution Day. It will be a part of a collection of short storiesโ€”nothing like Iโ€™ve written/published beforeโ€”titled Seven Deadly. At this point, they are all a bit weird, but too much fun to write. Iโ€™m always killinโ€™ off somebody!

    At about 7:30 p.m., I realized that I had only a light breakfast to eat and went in search of ramen. The ones near by were closed, but I found โ€œAsian Soulโ€ and had some delicious Thai food and beerโ€ฆ I think the second beer was actually from China.

    Fried shrimp cakes with an onion, garlic, and pepper pickled for dipping.
    Shrimp in green curry, toned down for me. Perfect amount of spice and so very good.

    During and afterward, I stopped to take a few pictures. This first one is called โ€œThe Ordinary in Lightโ€ (doesnโ€™t he think he is the artiste giving his pictures names!)

    On the way back to the hotel, I saw the light playing off the buildings andโ€ฆ

    And from the balcony of the new room (sorry, brother, no more garden)โ€ฆ

    Tomorrow will be a bit busier. Following breakfast, I will make my way to Adikt Ink where Matteo will give my new adult โ€œsticker.โ€ Something to remember this journey by and inspired by Joan, my hero in Rouen, France. Afterward, I will visit a local bookstore where I can find a Stephen King in some language other than English (I wonโ€™t be able to read it, but other than the new โ€œstickerโ€ it will be one of my few souvenirs. FYI: the exchange rate is miserable, so Iโ€™ve done little to no shopping.

    During my occasional scroll today, I came across this from Fyodor Dostoevsky: โ€œFrom the outside, you seem mature with a philosopher’s mind. But inside, you’re just a child lost in a sweet delusion.โ€ Donโ€™t be afraid to be a child. They are always curious and poking their little noses in all sorts of interesting places. Along the way, someone is bound to tell you โ€œNo!โ€ or โ€œItโ€™s not possible!โ€ Donโ€™t you believe it. Even a sixty-one year old child is finding out those sweet delusions can, in fact, be reality.

    May you have a blessed day, may your Grand Marnier always be a long pour, and may Our Lord and God bless you immensely. He does love all His silly children.

    For those curious about The Queen, she apparently has a new favorite game at The Cat Resortโ€ฆ

    Travel: Rouen (via Paris) to Luxembourg and Rest

    Yesterday was a much easier day of travel from Rouen to Luxembourgโ€”took the train. We did not crash into any buildings.

    After so many days of going, I took the day off. My only reason for getting up and dressed was breakfast and phone chargerโ€”I forgot to bring my converter for the outlets. The other hotels had USB ports, but this one did not. Glad to have brought my battery pack to charge the phone last night.

    After returning to the hotel, I did the only logical thing: took a nap. Then got up and worked on a short story, Execution Day, which I hope will be part of a collection of short stories that Iโ€™ve been working onโ€”Seven Deadlyโ€”although there will be more than seven stories, and they will not all be too deadly.

    At one point, as I sat here in my PJs and writing, I got a bit chilly. I do not have a robe or slippers with me, so did the best I could. The result: me sitting in my PJs, wearing my overcoat (which Iโ€™m very glad I brought) and my hiking boots.

    Selfie Stick and timer set on phone + mad dash to strike the pose.

    After such hard work, it was time for some food. I went for something completely different and will likely be sitting up in bed all night because my white-bread American stomach doesnโ€™t handle spicy food too well, but it was so very good.

    The mealโ€ฆ

    I had no idea what I was ordering, so relied on my very kind host to help me out. I had at first wanted to attempt one other dish, but it had three ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ beside it. My host said it wasn’t possible to make it milder, so we agreed on a dish with ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ, and he said he could get it down to ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ. It was perfect! Timmuri with Sichuan pepper, onion, ginger, garlic, and Nepali spice. I added some lamb to get a bit extra. The nan was with garlic. He had me first try the Cobra beer from India (after getting it, I remembered that I had it once before in Lisbon) and then he said I must try a Nepalese beerโ€ฆ excellent. Much more carbonation and natural taste.

    This is just an American talking here, butโ€ฆ it seems that when you eat out in various countries, if you eat at a โ€œlocalโ€ restaurant, youโ€™ll likely get good food, but the attitude that comes with it really puts me offโ€”theyโ€™re doing you a favor by deigning to have you seated in their establishment. However, if you choose an ethnic restaurant, well, like you, they are the foreigners. They know what it is like to be a stranger in a strange land and so, to me, they are so much kinder and helpful. Look, I willingly admit, I donโ€™t know what Iโ€™m doing half the time and I sure as heck donโ€™t know what Iโ€™m ordering, so when you ask, โ€œWhat do you recommend?โ€ the locals will roll their eyes, but the foreigners like you will smile and be so very helpful. Something about it in Leviticus (perhaps 19:33-34) but I wonโ€™t get preachy.

    There is a park behind my hotel that I can see from the windowโ€ฆ

    โ€ฆso on the way, in an attempt to walk off some of that meal, I took a stroll. Beautiful flowers that my brother would be disgusted with me if I didnโ€™t stop and smell. So, for the brotherโ€ฆ

    And donโ€™t forgetting be the babbling fountain:

    As I stood next to the water, these two came cruising byโ€ฆ

    The last two days have been the most relaxing of the expedition (although Iโ€™ve loved it allโ€”except maybe for the long bus trip, but I did get to see the Eiffel Tower and I was in Paris), and on several occasions, I have caught myself smiling for no dang reason at all. Those around me probably think they have a crazy person on their hands, butโ€ฆ Noโ€ฆ just me. It is a good feeing to smile for no reason at all.

    I think Iโ€™ll work on my short story for a bit longer, then do some reading. Iโ€™m very much into Haruki Murakami these days and have been working through 1Q84, which is delightfully Murakami.

    Travel: Ghent, Belgium to Rouen, France – Day Five & Six

    My days may be off, but we are seeing the world. I hope this post is more than a photo dump like the other day, butโ€ฆ Iโ€™ve experienced so much. Letโ€™s see what happensโ€ฆ

    Yesterday was a travel day extraordinaire! Twelve hours from point A to point B. One of those hours was stupidity on my part in not knowing how to read my ticket, the other eleven hours were automobiles and buses (two of them to be exact). The first half of the trip was good, but when I hit Paris โ€” OY! Note to self: when reading your bus ticket, donโ€™t look for destinationโ€”look for bus number. I was probably standing directly next to my outbound bus for thirty minutes, but the board never said, โ€œRouen.โ€ Instead, it said the next stop (whatever that was), and I missed it. Had to purchase a new ticket for the next bus. Dang near missed that one as well until I realized my mistake.

    There was a fun sight along the way:

    Paris traffic was c.r.a.z.y. and the bus driver headed down the wrong street twice and had to back up! but I finally arrived (two hours later than planned) in Rouen, France. Life is good! Iโ€™m in France for Pete sake! (Sorry, โ€œPierre sake!) The fella checking me in at the hotel was VERY French in attitude, but I smiled. It was dark, but I decided to see what I could see. It was so worth the 12 hours of traveling. I came around a cornerโ€ฆ I donโ€™t know that a tear ran down my cheek, but it was a close call.

    This morning, I woke up feeling refreshed and ready to see what the city offered, but I did have one destination in mind. First things first, thoughโ€ฆ I went back to the cathedral to see the inside, but no sooner had I arrived and they were ushering us all out. What? Turns out, Mass was about to begin. Well, my Anglican friends, I kept my mouth shut and had a seat. What a surprise and blessing for me: from my Facebook postโ€ฆ โ€œWhen your heathen soul gets lucky and you show up on time to attend mass with the Archbishop of Rouen and Primate of Normandy, Monseigneur Dominique Lebrun. Second photo from web.โ€

    At this point I was feeling good. I continued with my tour, seeing what I could see. Only problem: so much of what I wanted to see was behind locked gates and I wasnโ€™t allowed to get close. Just you wait! My first time through the 12-century gothic Cathรฉdrale Notre-Dame de Rouen.

    1000 years in the weather has done much damage to everything. They are working on the restoration, but it is a slow process.
    St. James: notice the shell on his cap. Having walked a portion of the Camino de Santiago, that shell is like a secret sign and your eye is immediately drawn to it. I stopped dead in the middle of a street later in the day. Iโ€™ll show you that in a minute.
    I would like to say that It was Jesus who caught my attention in this picture, but it was that red hair. I donโ€™t know what that says about me. I havenโ€™t identified the artist.

    Weโ€™ll be back at 2:30 p.m. but for now, I headed to my next destinationโ€”and the point of coming to Rouen to begin withโ€”the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.

    Friends, Joan of Arc has been a hero of mine forever. This was on the list of places to visit from the first time I came to Europe. It was simple, noisy, dirty, smelly, drunks being loud, people oblivious, none of it matteredโ€ฆ I pulled out my small rosary and rubbed it in the dirt of this place.

    I came back later in the day and found the spot with the sun directly behind the marker.

    The small Joan of Arc medal on my rosary that came home to her ashesโ€ฆ

    Sitting here shaking my headโ€ฆ donโ€™t know how to explain.

    I stopped and had some lunch, seafood, then made my way back to the cathedral. I had read somewhere that there is a tour that begins at 2:30 on Saturday. It is not posted anywhere or publicized. Show up and join in. I did. For the next three hours, I visited the parts of the cathedral I wasnโ€™t allowed to get close to and parts I didnโ€™t even know existed! Amazing. There were only ten of us on the tour. Did I mention it was all in French? I didnโ€™t understand a word said, but it was absolutely fascinating.

    The Baptistryโ€ฆ

    It was all I could do not to straighten that candle!

    The Joan of Arc side chapelโ€ฆ

    Chapelle de la Vierge (Chapel of the Virgin)โ€ฆ

    St. Georgeโ€ฆ โ€œKill the dragon!!โ€

    And I havenโ€™t forgottenโ€ฆ

    Some of you may remember this photoโ€ฆ

    It was taken in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, the starting point of the Camino de Santiago in 2024. Well, today, as I was walking along, I came across thisโ€ฆ

    The Camino is not done with me. It keeps calling in the most remarkable ways. Just wait until this October! Iโ€™m still blown away by this development, but thatโ€™s later. For nowโ€ฆ Yeahโ€ฆ โ€œBuen Camino!โ€ Mine continues! God is good.

    My day and my life. It was and is a good one. Tomorrow, is another travel day. Back to Luxembourg. There are some places I want to see and Iโ€™m planning on a couple of โ€œvacationโ€ days where I look out the window of my hotel room, read my book, sip some wine, and not worry about the world too much.

    Blessings to you all.