Tag: Travel

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Camino: Zubiri to Pamplona

I think it’s from all the downhill walking yesterday, but it feels like someone has inserted hot coals into each of my calves. Stretch. Stretch. Stretch. All shall be well. 

I made it to the top of the most recent hill. There are plenty of them here. As I started my way down I came across all these purple flowers. It struck me that Santiago is still over 450 miles away and that it’s OK to stop and smell the flowers for just a moment. It will not delay my arrival at all.

I have a new found taste for Coca-Cola. After putting in 10 miles it is the most delicious thing on the planet. As I sat there, drinking my ice cold Coca-Cola and visiting with a girl from Canada, who has a love of hockey, I looked over and there was a lady who is walking the Camino with her baby. The girl from Canada and I both felt rather ashamed at being tired. The baby was no more than three or four months old, and the momma was carrying the baby all along the way. I got nothing.

I just saw a sign that said Pamplona is about 8.3 km/5 miles. I said to myself, “Self, that is less than three times around Crosslin Park.” I’ve got to keep moving.

I don’t know how well this will come out, but it is the valley before Pamplona. It is a panoramic shot. Go ahead and say it, “Gorgeous!”

Soon afterward, I came to the church where I said my rosary for today. It was so nice and cool inside. Probably no more than about 40 people could have fit. I’m not quite sure how I got this shot but I thought it came out beautiful.

I have arrived at my hotel in Pamplona. It is the Aloha Hostel. I’m not sure that Aloha is a Spanish word. And, yes, if you thought of the movie, Hostel, when you read the name… So did I!

Now, please do not judge me. I was hungry, I was tired, and I did not want to figure out anything else. It’s also right next-door to my hotel. I had a Pepsi to go with it only because they did not serve Coca-Cola. I ordered the Alabama. When I said, “Alabama,” the girl behind the counter, looked at me and wondered what language I was speaking. I wanted to teach her how to say it properly, maybe the way Boudreaux would have said it, but I just kept my mouth shut and sat down and drank my Pepsi. The next time you’re in Pamplona I can recommend this pizza. I thought all those little yellow things were slices of garlic, but it turns out it was corn. Never had corn on a pizza before. I don’t think that’s American. 🤪

I am now in my room with my shoes and socks off and my pajamas on. It’s only 5:45 PM but I have no intentions of going anywhere else today. I’ve got my window open so I can hear the city below and they can have a beautiful Saturday night, and I will sit here and listen to them enjoying it. Tomorrow I plan on exploring the city. I’ve seen the top of the church here in town and it is amazing. I hope to go to mass there sometime tomorrow morning. That is if I wake up tomorrow morning.

16.5 miles/31,604 steps. Right now the bathroom is about four steps away and that seems like a pretty fair distance.

Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.

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Camino: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Never once have I woken up and said to myself, “Self, why don’t we walk 33,000 steps today?” I know that some of you probably have to do this for your job, but the distance between the altar and the little place where I stand to preach there’s no more than about 20 steps at most. My feet hurt. Tomorrow, I will get up and do about the same thing. I volunteered for this. Amazing. It really is quite amazing.

On the way out this morning I noticed that one of the small chapels was open. James was there to greet the day.

From there, it was a matter of picking them up and putting them down. I actually felt stronger today. I think part of it had to do with coming down out of the altitude. Seems there’s a bit more air down here.

Did I mention that I’m listening to The Long Walk by Stephen King? I won’t spoil it for you because I know so many of you are going to want to read it now, but it is motivation to keep moving that’s for sure. I really do hope they make a movie out of this one.

In the book, there was mention of passing a cemetery, and as luck would have it…

Most of the day was spent fairly off-road. They’ve done quite a bit to make it more accessible, but there are places where the way gets quite challenging.

Compared to a few spots, that’s actually quite tame. The last 3 miles leading into Zubiri are rough. The rocks and the roots want to reach out and bite you. Just prior to this patch was a fella in a food truck. I was 10 miles in at this point and was more than willing to pay five euros for an ice cold Coca-Cola and a chocolate chip cookie. There were several who were purchasing his beers. I would not have wanted to navigate that road on even a sip of wine.

I’m resting my barking dogs at the moment, but we’ll go out in a bit and see if I can find an open church and then track down some supper. A remarkable day so far.

Zubiri is basically a bedroom community to Pamplona so there’s not a lot here. The church was locked up tighter than a bank, with a padlock and chain. The restaurants were basically bars with loud people. I stopped by the grocery store and bought a nice French loaf, some smoked meat, hard cheese, and a Toblerone bar. I sat in the dining hall with Elvis and enjoyed my meal.

Sounds like a perfect supper to me. It’s not even 6:30 PM and I am ready for bed.

I did not sleep well last night. My room was on the third floor… Top floor… And the windows did not open. It was hot. Tonight will be better.

16.5 miles / 34,200 steps

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Camino: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles

The kindness of strangers. Be thankful and give them thanks. It is as though they want you to succeed.

When I woke up this morning, I was a bit nervous to move. I was afraid that yesterday I might’ve hurt something or pulled something or was just too dang tired to move. Everything seems to be in order. Another thing to give thanks for. 

6 miles in. Nothing but climbing. A verse to meditate upon… Do not worry about tomorrow for today has enough concerns of its own.… Do not look up the hill. Just keep putting one foot in front of another. Just look a couple of feet ahead. If you look up the hill, you begin to think you won’t make it. If you look a couple of feet of head, that’s as far as you have to go. And then… A couple of more feet. You’ll make it.

I was very nervous about this stage. A climb of 3000 feet. The smartest thing I did was to have my backpack shipped ahead. I have a small day pack that I added, my water, wallet, and a few other necessities and called it good. Bottom line: according to everything I’ve heard and read, I have made it through my most difficult day. From here it’s not easy, but it’s not as hard. I’ll keep you posted on that one.

Along the way, almost at the top, and the small chapel at the top.

I was ever so happy to see the top of the church in Roncesvalles.

To be only slightly indelicate, I don’t think I’ve sweated this much in my life. It was only 51° but my goodness. Therefore, today is laundry day. hoping the sun will dry everything nicely.

After praying my Rosary, I did some walking about. Came to the tomb of Sancho VII the Strong of Navarre who died in 1234 ad. The Chains of Navarre are a part of the coat of arms of Navarre. Legend has it that the Caliph of the Moors had a human shield of slaves that were chained together. Sancho’s army attacked the Moors, broke the chains of the slaves, and the Caliph fled.

I did find THE sign. Apparently it was placed many years ago, when no one was entirely sure exactly how far it was. The new marker is probably correct. I think by saying Santiago is 790km from here is a bit like saying, So-and-So went out in the desert with God for 50 years. The 50 years isn’t exact, but is really good way of saying, “No one is certain how long So-and-So was out there, but it was quite a long time.” No one is entirely certain how far Santiago is, but it is going to take you a while to get there.

After my wanderings, I stopped for a large water at the local pub. There are many pilgrims mingling, meeting, and talking, but so far, I really haven’t had an interest in any of it. When I was in the place of the king, I was the only one there, and it was so very quiet and peaceful. I guess for now, I’m enjoying walking and praying and being at peace with the world and myself. Maybe later.

Confession is available in ten minutes, then a Mass at 8 p.m. followed by the blessing of pilgrims. Be back later. It will be an early night, that is for certain.

I didn’t understand a word, but the Mass was beautiful and they called all the pelegrinos forward and gave us a blessing. The confession bit… the schedule was off, so I did not get to make confession before Mass, but a lovely older priest took the time afterward to hear my confession. Only thing, he did not speak English, but we both decided that God would hear and know and that it would be good. It was. He then insisted on giving me communion again from the reserved Sacrament.

11.4 miles today / 21,800 steps. Tomorrow, I walk to Zubiri. Map says that it is 13.26 miles.

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Prayed today’s Rosary at…

Parroquia De Santiago

It is difficult to find a church that is open. I suspect most of the problem is related to the shortage of clergy and the decline of Christianity in Europe. it did not stop me from praying. I sat outside and enjoyed the cool breeze.

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Camino: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos

Last night…well, of course I had to watch it!

9:40am. Today… I begin.

11:45am. Arrived in Arnéguy. 5.5 miles. Be very careful of traffic for that first mile coming out of SJPDP. At times, there is no shoulder and many fast moving cars. If not for the kindness of strangers, I would currently be climbing a steep hill, only to have to backtrack. Instead, I’m having a brief rest, café, and lite second breakfast (Nutella filled croissant.) Less than three miles to Valcarlos. A good portion of this section will be off road.

1:53pm. Valcarlos. The last hill coming in is penance for a multitude of sins.

The backpack is designed so that the belt across the waist places much of the weight on the hips. That way you are not carrying the weight on your shoulders. It’s a good thing. The only problem is that as a 59-year-old male… well… I ain’t got no hips.

I do believe that all of my preparation and walking leading up to this has prepared me nicely for about 95% of the Camino. However, it did not prepare me for today which means I will definitely not be prepared for tomorrow. I’ll sort it out, but I do confess that I had one of those “What the hell was I thinking?” moments. I somehow suspect that it will not be my last.

In my humble opinion, prep all you want, but nothing gets you ready for the Pyrenees.

Went for a short walk here in town and found a nice glass of wine. Afterward I went and prayed my rosary and then returned to my room. The hostess, Alejandra, here at Etexeale is listening to Aguas de Março (feat. Fernanda Takai). I asked Siri to identify the song for me. It was brilliant. I feel like I’m in some foreign movie and I love those. She is also cooking and I don’t know what’s for supper tonight, but it smells absolutely brilliant. The long and arduous walk up today is almost forgotten. My body seems to be remembering it a little bit and may remind me of it in the morning, but for now… Right as rain.

For the record, I did hire a service to carry the pack to Roncesvalles. It was just too intimidating. The distance is about the same as today, but the climb… Oy! It was a great relief to make that decision.

In my walking about I came across a little bit of local history. This is a Basque thing.

“To the Basque People who fought their Liberty here and emerged victorious over Charlemagne.”

Not for to go now…😳

Dinner is almost ready. We’re now being serenaded by La Maison Près / De La Fontaine.

I cannot recommend this place enough. Dinner: a salad with pickled carrots and onions on a bed of lettuce with her own balsamic olive oil dressing. Followed by a traditional Spanish stew of potatoes, artichokes, and sausage and a light tomato sauce. Dessert consisted of a slice of hard French cheese (almost crunchy), a thin slice of a thick Quince jelly, and walnuts–Membrillo. A traditional Spanish dessert. If I had known this meal was waiting at the end of the road today, the road would have been much shorter.

It’s time for a shower, and to put my feet up for a little while. I hope you all have a blessed evening.

Only 9.8 miles / 18,900 steps.

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Camino: A Day in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port

It is 43° F and raining. Any other time and place, that would be a perfect excuse to stay at home and stay warm. However, being here, that’s really not an option. Today I can sleep late, but tomorrow they are going to kick me out come rain or shine. Though nuanced with gray clouds, the perfectly blue sky is still out there. Time to go enjoy it and live a life. FYI: cod stew makes for some very wild dreams.

Flashback to trip to Lisbon… I washed clothes last night and with great apprehension, I felt them today. No hairdryer required.

I have spent the day walking around. It rained most of the morning and part of the afternoon but the sun is trying to come out now. I prayed my rosary at a beautiful church, and then had a delicious lunch at Comme à la Maison. Very quaint little restaurant. Five stars in my book.

Afterwards I made my way up the hill a short ways to the pilgrims office. Had to wait in line for about half an hour, but it was a cheerful place. As large group from South Korea in front of me. Everyone was quite excited.

I then made my way indoors…

And there it is. My first stamp.

Each day on the Camino, a pilgrim must receive a stamp in their “Credencial del Peregrino” as proof they have been there. it is the pilgrims passport. Note to self: don’t lose it!

I’m going to be still and quiet for the rest of the day. Tomorrow morning I start walking. My first stop isn’t too far and not that difficult—Valcarlos— about 7 miles. It will be one of my shorter days, but Thursday is all uphill. There is no need to worry about that today though. 

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Camino: Bordeaux to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

I did not know I was tired until I slept and I did not know I was hungry until I ate. What a good night. I spent the night in the Mercure hotel in Bordeaux. A delightful place. The staff were very kind, even though I don’t speak a lick of French. Maybe they all roll their eyes after I turned away but I didn’t see it. I also did not sense it. Which I think is even more important. Check out is not until noon but I think I’ll pack things up here and head over to the train station. What better place to watch humanity. More later.

11:34 a.m. I am at the train station. I’m looking for pilgrims, but I have not seen one yet. I suppose in one way or another we are all pilgrims, but I’m looking for some very specific ones. I would like to wish someone, Buen Camino.

11:41 a.m. and as I stand here, I just remembered Blaine the Mono. Stephen King fans unite!

12:19 p.m. I have met my first pilgrim, although she walked it two years ago. She saw the Cross of St. James on my pack (thank you, Dana, for sewing them on—I haven’t forgotten our deal!) I am smiling. Becoming more real.

1:10 p.m. I just began The Road to Daybreak by Henri Nouwen. The first two sentences: “This is the first day of my new life! Though it sounds melodramatic, I cannot avoid feeling that something significant is starting today.” Ummm…..

2:23 p.m. on the train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Many pilgrims.

3:24.

4:21 p.m. Arrived at my apartment for the next two nights. It is lovely—Gîtes Vue Montagne St-Jean-Pied-de Port. Five stars and I haven’t even checked out the bed.

7:53 p.m. I walked back into town to find a bite to eat and a few groceries for the next couple of days. Not much. Just a few eggs and bread. I’ll go back in tomorrow for a bigger meal.

As I walked, I was thinking about the pilgrims I met… no, “met” is the wrong word… encountered or bumped into along the way today. *WE* were all still caught up in our normal lives. We were rushing and pushing and jostling. We were not good pilgrims (I don’t even know that we are pilgrims yet.) We were our normal selves. Always in a hurry. Always checking the clock. Always believing that our journey is of utmost importance. Not true Young Grasshoppa. This—in my no miles on the Camino, yet, opinion—is not the Way of St. James.

St. James was guided by an angel to his final resting place in Santiago. Perhaps, instead of guiding our own path, we allow God’s holy angels to guide us… is that a statement or a question?

I prayed the Rosary today in a beautiful church. I understood that I was at the foot of the cross with Mary. I had my left hand on Jesus foot and Mary had a hand on mine. Mary had her right hand on Jesus’ other foot and I had my other hand on hers. We stood side by side. At first, I was distracted by the others coming and going, but Mary said for me not to listen to them. She said that I was to listen for His voice—that He would speak to me along the way. I will listen.

I lit a candle and asked her to pray for me along The Way. She will.

This peregrino is tired. Blessings to you all.

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Camino: Enid, Oklahoma to Bordeaux, France

It is 11:09 AM and I am in the airport in Oklahoma City. My flight doesn’t leave for a couple more hours so I stopped for some breakfast. It was Andy who drove me to the airport and he took a before photo.

The next leg of the journey will take me from here to DFW, where I have another short layover before heading out to Paris.

The flight to Dallas was uneventful and short. I am hopeful that the next flight will at least be uneventful! It will be long…. about 10 hours/5,231 miles. I hope to sleep which is something I can never do on a plane. Don’t take that as complaining! I get to do this thing. Having a few French fries before boarding because you never really know about what will be served.

It is 12:02 Paris time and we are taxing to the runway at DFW.

Sunrise at 37,000 feet. About an hour out from Paris.

Arrived in Paris without any trouble. Only was able to sleep for about an hour or so. I wish I could learn to do that. Sleep on the plane that is. Took a taxi to the Montparnasse train station, and then waited on the train.

Arrived in Bordeaux. 24 1/2 hours after I left. Long trip but not a complaint. I see sleeping in Babyland in my future.

A room with a pretty nice view.

I have two trains tomorrow, but really a pretty easy day. Only about three hours of traveling and then I will be at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I have two nights there, which I’m really looking forward to. Not only will it give me the opportunity to rest up from the trip, but I can also explore the town at a leisurely pace.

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Camino: T-minus 15 hours 47 minutes (but who’s counting)

In the final hours leading up to departure from Sherwood Forest, I am finally at rest. Everything is packed, and the house is clean. If I have forgotten it, I probably don’t need it. If it is not clean, it’s probably not all that dirty. I now sit with a glass of wine and a movie that I found–The Wall (I know nothing about it, but the blurb says it is a tour-de-force performance by Martina Gedeck. I don’t know her either, but I’m glad she had a forceful tour.)

The alarm is set for 7:30 a.m. tomorrow. My trusty chauffeur will be picking me up at 9:00 a.m. (trusty chauffeur is good for a snarky comment below.) Roughly 24 hours after I wake up in the a.m., I will be landing in Paris. Bonjour. Merci. Parlez vous Francais? Nope. I’m from Oklahoma, and the only thing we parlez vous around here is… well, I was hoping for another Come-for-da-bull joke there, but it didn’t work out.

The Queen is on her perch, glaring down at me. She is beginning to catch on and the claws are flexing. Maybe I’ll make it out the door before she goes all screaming terrorist.

You all have a good night’s rest. I’ll try and update tomorrow, but I’m not sure how all that will work out, so it will likely be sometime Sunday and I’ll be in Bordeaux, France (poor me…. bwaahahahaha.) With that, “Good night, and good morning, in case we don’t talk before that!)

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