Camino: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Never once have I woken up and said to myself, “Self, why don’t we walk 33,000 steps today?” I know that some of you probably have to do this for your job, but the distance between the altar and the little place where I stand to preach there’s no more than about 20 steps at most. My feet hurt. Tomorrow, I will get up and do about the same thing. I volunteered for this. Amazing. It really is quite amazing.

On the way out this morning I noticed that one of the small chapels was open. James was there to greet the day.

From there, it was a matter of picking them up and putting them down. I actually felt stronger today. I think part of it had to do with coming down out of the altitude. Seems there’s a bit more air down here.

Did I mention that I’m listening to The Long Walk by Stephen King? I won’t spoil it for you because I know so many of you are going to want to read it now, but it is motivation to keep moving that’s for sure. I really do hope they make a movie out of this one.

In the book, there was mention of passing a cemetery, and as luck would have it…

Most of the day was spent fairly off-road. They’ve done quite a bit to make it more accessible, but there are places where the way gets quite challenging.

Compared to a few spots, that’s actually quite tame. The last 3 miles leading into Zubiri are rough. The rocks and the roots want to reach out and bite you. Just prior to this patch was a fella in a food truck. I was 10 miles in at this point and was more than willing to pay five euros for an ice cold Coca-Cola and a chocolate chip cookie. There were several who were purchasing his beers. I would not have wanted to navigate that road on even a sip of wine.

I’m resting my barking dogs at the moment, but we’ll go out in a bit and see if I can find an open church and then track down some supper. A remarkable day so far.

Zubiri is basically a bedroom community to Pamplona so there’s not a lot here. The church was locked up tighter than a bank, with a padlock and chain. The restaurants were basically bars with loud people. I stopped by the grocery store and bought a nice French loaf, some smoked meat, hard cheese, and a Toblerone bar. I sat in the dining hall with Elvis and enjoyed my meal.

Sounds like a perfect supper to me. It’s not even 6:30 PM and I am ready for bed.

I did not sleep well last night. My room was on the third floor… Top floor… And the windows did not open. It was hot. Tonight will be better.

16.5 miles / 34,200 steps

12 Replies to “Camino: Roncesvalles to Zubiri”

  1. Wow! Proud of you! 😎 This will make my mower repair and mowing seem like a breeze! Elvis has left the building…

  2. Don’t give up it will get better (and maybe worse). It is worth it. Thoughts from an Appalachian Trail hiker.

  3. What an adventure this is. I check in every night to read of your adventures for the day. What you are doing is really remarkable. Sending lots of encouragement and courage to you. Linda Pickens

  4. Sounds like you found a “heads down” trail. (On Trails by Robert Moor)

    Loving the adventure!

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