Well, the day was a busy one. I got up, had some breakfast, packed the bags, and headed down to the church. After a full day, including the mass at 4 p.m., I came back to the Casa to discover that there were no taxis available in all of Santiago. Two and a half kilometers later, I arrived at the train station after a nice, slow walk. Along the way, I stopped at a pastry shop and picked up something for breakfast in the morning. Three hours on the train, and I am now at my hotel in Madrid. The Casa Anglicana had a nice little bathroom that was about two and a half by six feet, maybe. The hot water tank in my room held two gallons, so each morning was a mad dash to beat the hot water before it ran out. Arriving at the Crowne Plaza Madrid Airport Hotel, I may have drained their hot water tank. It was really nice. I do believe it’s time for some sleep.
For those who are interested, here is a link to the book that I put together while I was here. I will tell you that the information is very interesting. The pictures are as good as I could take. And the layout—well, it’s a little wanting. It’s really difficult to publish books with pictures on Amazon. Anyhow, if it’s something you are interested in, you can go to Amazon and purchase a copy. Or, if you drop me a note, I will be more than happy to send you a free PDF version of it. The history of that one little church and all of the churches in Santiago is actually quite fascinating.
I’m a bit weary. It has been an amazing week. Tomorrow is my last day in Santiago. Get up, breakfast, pack, run and to the duties at the church, run back to the Casa, finish packing, head to the train station, arrive in Madrid about 11:30 p.m., bedtime about 1:00 a.m. Oy!
What did I do today, you ask? Here is a tease:
It is nothing really special and the formatting is not great, but it is a record of the church. If you ask nicely, I’ll send you a .pdf of the file. If you ask rudely, I’ll send you the Amazon link and make a wee royalty off of you. hahahha.
If I were you, I’d save my money for Birdy, which will be out in December.
Tired. Time to sleep. Oops… clothes in the dryer, then sleep.
Spent the morning with Birdy, the afternoon working at the church, and the evening eating Indian food… Oh, my! If anyone ever offers you Soan Papdi, just nod your head.
Soan Papdi is dangerously easy to keep eating. 😄 It’s an Indian sweet with a wonderfully strange texture: flaky, wispy, crisp, and almost cotton-candy-like, but richer and nuttier. It breaks apart into delicate threads and then practically dissolves in your mouth.
The traditional ingredients are usually gram flour (besan/chickpea flour), all-purpose flour, sugar, ghee, and milk or water, flavored with cardamom. Many versions are topped or mixed with pistachios and almonds, and sometimes saffron.
Melts in your mouth.
From the research project (it is above the main entrance of San Fiz.)
The Epiphany tympanum, dated 1316. The close view preserves the relationship between the sculpted scene, surviving polychromy, archivolts, and capitals.
The tympanum is one of the most securely documented medieval works at San Fiz. It represents the Epiphany: the Virgin and Child occupy the center; the Magi approach in adoration; St. Joseph sits opposite; and the kneeling donor, Xoán de Ben, appears in prayer. The lintel inscription dates the work to 1316 and names the enigmatic Master F. París.
The sculpture still preserves evidence of color, although the visible polychromy should not automatically be assumed to be original. Its importance lies not only in its age but in the fact that it belongs to a recognizable fourteenth-century sculptural milieu in Compostela. Related work has been associated with the same workshop.
Sunday started a bit slower here than at home. The Mass wasn’t until 12:30 p.m. I may have to talk to the vestry about a new time for church! There were eight in attendance, but for a very Roman Catholic community, that was pretty good. Wasn’t quite as nervous today as I was the first time.
I did remember to take a picture of the church…
I also found my way to the small balcony…
It is quite lovely.
This afternoon I spent nursing a very sore back and editing six chapters of Birdy. This evening, the back is better after I located a pharmacy for a little something to salve it with.
I also spent more time this afternoon researching the artwork in San Fiz. I’m planning on putting together a small booklet to share with the Anglican community so that others might benefit from it. In the process, I came across a very curious symbol at the bottom of the retable, just below the statue of Mary…
No. It is not, “Show me the money!”
An S pierced by what at first appears to be an arrow. The key is recognizing it as a nail—clavo in Spanish. Together they form a visual wordplay: S + clavo = esclavo, “slave.”
The emblem was used by Spanish religious confraternities whose members described themselves as esclavos of Christ, the Blessed Sacrament, or the Virgin Mary. Here “slave” expressed complete, voluntary devotional surrender rather than literal bondage. Examples of the S-and-nail device can be traced to Spanish religious practice at least as far back as the late sixteenth century, with particularly clear Marian examples in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
Thus, what looks like a curious decorative mark at San Fiz is actually a small theological declaration: I belong entirely to God.
I like that! And I may need some ink.
After a Middle Eastern lunch at Jerusalem, very tasty, I wandered around and attempted to be artsy.
Came back to the Casa to unload the pack and cassock and then back out for dinner. I had a real hankering for curry, but all the places I found were closed, so chose Ramen Okaeri. Guess what? They serve curry and it was delicious!
I started with an Asahi and the Takoyaki (octopus balls):
And finished up with Curry rice with prawn tempura:
Feeling particularly fat and happy. Oh… and there was a “CUTE” cat that watched over it all:
That was my day. Tomorrow I am “off” and will be taking a tour through Finisterre, Muxía, Ézaro & Coast of Death (I’ve no idea what that is).
They are singing down in the garden here, so I may have to go see what the peregrinos are up to.
Looking out the window from my room.
And today’s selfie (it was taken in what will later be known as my artsy phase)…
It is no longer the Camino de Santiago, but it is the way I am going now.
The foot is doing better, although I would not set out on an 18 mile walk. It is going to take a bit more time to get back to that. For now, I am mostly content to rest it, though I feel like I’m “wasting” my sabbatical. We will see what the days ahead bring.
The sun is rising on a new day here in Ireland. Keep you posted.
Today has been a day of travel. I went from Los Arcos to Logroño. My bus was late so I missed my second bus to Madrid. There was another one at 12:45 PM and I got that one. Four hours later I arrived in Madrid. I went and found a new suitcase because I had been carrying my possessions in a bag that I found in the back room of the hotel. I gave away my hiking shoes in Los Arcos because the hikers I had were murder on my foot. The walking I did in my sandals hurt like the dickens at the beginning, but settled in after a bit. I somehow suspect that a little bit later tonight I will regret that walking. I have found some new shoes! Skechers. There were several other brands, but these are recognized. Soft on the bottom, and more importantly, soft on the top.
I have stayed in some very nice places the last several nights. However, the hotel I’m staying at in Madrid is a paradise. I’m sitting down, waiting on my octopus to be delivered for my supper. I’m thinking it’s going to be delicious although you who have issues with my mackrel during the week may not find it so appetizing.
I continue to think about many things. We really don’t change. We are who we are and we fight the battles. It doesn’t matter where you are, your demons will follow you. If you pray that those demons might release you and they remain, does that mean that you are a complete loss and destined for level nine? Or does that mean that Saint Paul heard correctly, “My grace is sufficient for thee.” Do we continue to fight against the demons? I look at the person that I am, and I wonder, is this really who God wants me to be? I can’t imagine the person that I am is satisfying to Him. We desire to be more but… all that remains is who we are…. hold that thought, supper has arrived…
I absolutely complained to the management. It was a terrible supper. The baby octopus was two days too old. Horrible. I ate it so that I would not embarrass the chef. For those of you who know that I eat mackerel out of a can, please know that this was even better, and if I could get it in a can, I would be eating it every day! Just for the record.
I see that I have mentioned this earlier, so I am just rambling now… Before I arrived at my hotel, I purchased a new suitcase and a new pair of sneakers. My foot is very appreciative of the new sneakers. The suitcase actually contains everything after the great purge. I got rid of my backpack and many of the items that I needed for the long walk. However, I was left with a small day pack, and it was bursting at the seams. It made it this far, but I think it had just about met its maker.
When I walked into the luggage store and the shoe store, they both looked at me as though I did not belong. That is something worth preaching on. However, when they realized that I could actually pay… do you remember that scene from Pretty Woman, apparently they did… they helped me out.
I have been rambling all day long. My apologies. Not great writing. However, I’ve been struggling from one place to the next and I’m just about to the place where I can stop. I need a haircut. I need a shower. I need somebody to trim my eyebrows (I can’t be that shaggy English guy!) I need about a 12 hour nap. Who doesn’t? We go too hard. We must learn to find peace and rest…………
I do not believe that we know how to breathe. I think we try so hard to prove to the world and to ourselves… What?… Something.… That we are… Important? Have relevance? Deserve to be heard?…
… Maybe we just want the world to know that we exist or existed? Maybe we are all the good thief who cries out in all desperation, “Remember me.” …… I’m talking to myself now…..
Wait! I forgot about my white crane this morning. She/he was sitting on their nest at the top of the bell tower in Los Arcos. A beautiful bird, and so very peaceful to watch. So high up that she/he did not care that we were down below observing them.
If you do not hear from me in the next six months, start searching for my body in this area of Ireland. I’ll be headed there tomorrow.
It only looks like I need to wash my feet, but it is actually a bruise on my right foot brought on by a stress fracture. The swelling was enough this morning that I could barely get my sandal on. I did not try my shoes.
And, yes, I am aware that I have finger toes, and that there is a massive gap where another toe could fit in.
What does this all mean? I am seeking further advice from a podiatrist. I have to be out of this hotel by noon tomorrow so things could happen quickly.
“Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.” – Ferris Bueller.
Stick with me my blog reading friends, we have a change of plans. Two to four weeks of little walking or it will be a couple of months in a boot. I choose to rest, and what better place to rest than the Irish countryside. I’ll be there for three to four weeks, then we’ll see what’s next. Heck, I already have an invitation from friends to meet them in Vienna and I’m definitely still planning on Norway. Regardless of the aches and pains, life is very good. Love living it.
Tomorrow is mostly travel: hotel to bus stop (car), Los Arcos to Logroño (bus), Logroño to Madrid (bus… about 4.5 hours), and Uber to hotel. The flight to Dublin leaves Saturday morning.
The last five miles of the walk for today comes with a warning on the map: From here to Los Arcos there is hardly any shade. Remember this especially in summertime. No water fountains or any other service available. The high for today is only supposed to be 49 with a 70% chance of rain. As long as the blister doesn’t give me fits, it should be fine.
I don’t think I got one drop of rain today. It was a beautiful day and was able to take my jacket off for a while. The wind kick back up again and it got cool though. I’m now in Los Arcos.
I looked at that pointy little mountain way off in the distance, and thought to myself, “Self, I bet they make you climb it.” Well, we did not have to climb it, but it was close. 
The road was beautiful today.
I’m not sure what the crop is, but there are fields of these yellow flowers. They’re beautiful.
And then I came across these purple trees. They were only in one spot.
My feet need to rest, so I will be taking tomorrow off. I’ve got in around 54 miles in three days so I’m feeling pretty good about that. I actually built in two days off each week and I’m ready. This is a physically challenging experience.
Onacompletely different subject, I’ve been thinking about “want.” Actually, it was focused and intense thinking as I walked this morning. It seems that want is at the heart of so much sin and pain in our own lives. Those who have, want more. Those who don’t, want something. We are always wanting. It definitely ties into, “Thou shall not covet.” When we want something or many things, we lose our peace. We become so focused on IT, that we lose sight of all that we truly have. Those things that are most important. I was trying to figure out how to rid myself of want. It also plays back to that Margaret Atwood quote from a couple of days ago. When there is want/desire, there really is no peace. I’ve used it in a sermon before, and somewhere in a closet, I still have the album—The The (yeah, that’s the band name), True Happiness This Way Lies. Or, maybe, I just need to get out of my head and go visit with some other pilgrims.
Waking up this morning I find out there’s less to be concerned about. I’ve only been at it for about a week now, but I’m finding myself very much in a routine. I sleep, I have breakfast, I do the final pack on my bag, I walk, I pray, I drink lots of water, I eat when I’m hungry, I find my room, I get things ready for the next day, and I sleep. That really does sum it up. I know that I always compare things to praying the rosary. Once you figure out the mechanics of it… The Lord prayer, the Hail Mary, the Fatima prayer, etc.… once you figure out all those other things, then you are able to actually pray. It might be the same with this walk. I wonder what is next? As our minds begin to pray more deeply with the rosary, what will we learn/pray/discover/etc. as we walk ?
My opportunity to pray the rosary today was amazing. It was in the ruins of a monastery. That was an existence almost 900 years ago. The brothers were there. I could feel their prayers. I had to make myself get up and move. I would still be sitting there otherwise.
Today was really all about the walk. I think my mental self and my physical self are beginning to meet in a particular place. I think that place will allow me to move forward, but it is a challenge. I have walked more than 17 miles today, which is more than anything I’ve ever walked before. The interesting thing is, I walked that many miles yesterday as well. At some point, the body says, I’m tired!
Later…My feet hurt and there were times when I wondered what the hell I have gotten myself into.
There were still flowers along the way. I think I missed this one by a day or two, but it was still pretty.
I have joined the ranks of the blistered, and it is a crowd pleaser. As much as we do to take care of our feet, it was inevitable. All shall be well. Note to self: don’t take any detours.
This one is for my cat. I’m pretty sure The Queen would appreciate it. Len, don’t take it personal.  She really is a bitch. 
While you are here… Go into the restaurant. Sit in the bar. You will not understand anything that is being said, but it is passionate and there is life. Much life—movie life. Old men that are discussing Catch 22 or whether or not Israel should retaliate against Iran. Who is to say? The beer flows and there are smiles and they are happy. What more could a person want?…. With so many men, I think a few wives would be appreciated.
I am still considering my Facebook post from a couple of days ago. I shall renew it here.
OK, I know I put that somewhere!
Today, the best moment or timeframe was when I was praying my rosary at the monastery that had been built around 1000 years ago. There were red poppies, growing all around, and I could imagine each of them being one of those monks that had lived and prayed in that place. I kept trying to figure out where the sanctuary was located. It was hard to discern. However, you really could feel them all around you. They were there. When you prayed, you knew you were praying with them. It felt as though they were thankful to have someone new praying with them. I was glad that they chose me today.
The photo below is the best I could do today. It would have required me to climb multiple steps to get you a better picture. I was not up for it. Hopefully this one will work.
Finally, there is a story about the water near this place.…
Take care not to drink the water here, neither yourself nor your horse, for it is a deadly river! On the way to Santiago we came across two Navarrese sitting by the bank, sharpening the knives they used to flay pilgrims’ horses which had drunk the water and died. We asked them fi the water was fit to drink, and they lyingly replied that it was, whereupon we gave it to our horses to drink. Two of them dropped dead at once and the Navarrese flayed them there and then.
In other words, leave your pony at home!
I could be rambling tonight. Sorry. It is 9:12 PM and I need to get ready for tomorrow. I pray you are well.
Did I mention the bells? I don’t know. Oh, well.
I’m too tired to read back over this one to see if there are typos. You can point them out and I will try and correct them, otherwise… Life is better with typos.
17.6 miles/35,002 steps.
410.38 miles to Santiago. I think I will break the 400 mile barrier tomorrow. Tell that to my feet and they may come and kick you! 
