Camino: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles

The kindness of strangers. Be thankful and give them thanks. It is as though they want you to succeed.

When I woke up this morning, I was a bit nervous to move. I was afraid that yesterday I might’ve hurt something or pulled something or was just too dang tired to move. Everything seems to be in order. Another thing to give thanks for. 

6 miles in. Nothing but climbing. A verse to meditate upon… Do not worry about tomorrow for today has enough concerns of its own.… Do not look up the hill. Just keep putting one foot in front of another. Just look a couple of feet ahead. If you look up the hill, you begin to think you won’t make it. If you look a couple of feet of head, that’s as far as you have to go. And then… A couple of more feet. You’ll make it.

I was very nervous about this stage. A climb of 3000 feet. The smartest thing I did was to have my backpack shipped ahead. I have a small day pack that I added, my water, wallet, and a few other necessities and called it good. Bottom line: according to everything I’ve heard and read, I have made it through my most difficult day. From here it’s not easy, but it’s not as hard. I’ll keep you posted on that one.

Along the way, almost at the top, and the small chapel at the top.

I was ever so happy to see the top of the church in Roncesvalles.

To be only slightly indelicate, I don’t think I’ve sweated this much in my life. It was only 51° but my goodness. Therefore, today is laundry day. hoping the sun will dry everything nicely.

After praying my Rosary, I did some walking about. Came to the tomb of Sancho VII the Strong of Navarre who died in 1234 ad. The Chains of Navarre are a part of the coat of arms of Navarre. Legend has it that the Caliph of the Moors had a human shield of slaves that were chained together. Sancho’s army attacked the Moors, broke the chains of the slaves, and the Caliph fled.

I did find THE sign. Apparently it was placed many years ago, when no one was entirely sure exactly how far it was. The new marker is probably correct. I think by saying Santiago is 790km from here is a bit like saying, So-and-So went out in the desert with God for 50 years. The 50 years isn’t exact, but is really good way of saying, “No one is certain how long So-and-So was out there, but it was quite a long time.” No one is entirely certain how far Santiago is, but it is going to take you a while to get there.

After my wanderings, I stopped for a large water at the local pub. There are many pilgrims mingling, meeting, and talking, but so far, I really haven’t had an interest in any of it. When I was in the place of the king, I was the only one there, and it was so very quiet and peaceful. I guess for now, I’m enjoying walking and praying and being at peace with the world and myself. Maybe later.

Confession is available in ten minutes, then a Mass at 8 p.m. followed by the blessing of pilgrims. Be back later. It will be an early night, that is for certain.

I didn’t understand a word, but the Mass was beautiful and they called all the pelegrinos forward and gave us a blessing. The confession bit… the schedule was off, so I did not get to make confession before Mass, but a lovely older priest took the time afterward to hear my confession. Only thing, he did not speak English, but we both decided that God would hear and know and that it would be good. It was. He then insisted on giving me communion again from the reserved Sacrament.

11.4 miles today / 21,800 steps. Tomorrow, I walk to Zubiri. Map says that it is 13.26 miles.