Camino: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos

Last night…well, of course I had to watch it!

9:40am. Today… I begin.

11:45am. Arrived in Arnéguy. 5.5 miles. Be very careful of traffic for that first mile coming out of SJPDP. At times, there is no shoulder and many fast moving cars. If not for the kindness of strangers, I would currently be climbing a steep hill, only to have to backtrack. Instead, I’m having a brief rest, café, and lite second breakfast (Nutella filled croissant.) Less than three miles to Valcarlos. A good portion of this section will be off road.

1:53pm. Valcarlos. The last hill coming in is penance for a multitude of sins.

The backpack is designed so that the belt across the waist places much of the weight on the hips. That way you are not carrying the weight on your shoulders. It’s a good thing. The only problem is that as a 59-year-old male… well… I ain’t got no hips.

I do believe that all of my preparation and walking leading up to this has prepared me nicely for about 95% of the Camino. However, it did not prepare me for today which means I will definitely not be prepared for tomorrow. I’ll sort it out, but I do confess that I had one of those “What the hell was I thinking?” moments. I somehow suspect that it will not be my last.

In my humble opinion, prep all you want, but nothing gets you ready for the Pyrenees.

Went for a short walk here in town and found a nice glass of wine. Afterward I went and prayed my rosary and then returned to my room. The hostess, Alejandra, here at Etexeale is listening to Aguas de Março (feat. Fernanda Takai). I asked Siri to identify the song for me. It was brilliant. I feel like I’m in some foreign movie and I love those. She is also cooking and I don’t know what’s for supper tonight, but it smells absolutely brilliant. The long and arduous walk up today is almost forgotten. My body seems to be remembering it a little bit and may remind me of it in the morning, but for now… Right as rain.

For the record, I did hire a service to carry the pack to Roncesvalles. It was just too intimidating. The distance is about the same as today, but the climb… Oy! It was a great relief to make that decision.

In my walking about I came across a little bit of local history. This is a Basque thing.

Not for to go now…😳

Dinner is almost ready. We’re now being serenaded by La Maison Près / De La Fontaine.

I cannot recommend this place enough. Dinner: a salad with pickled carrots and onions on a bed of lettuce with her own balsamic olive oil dressing. Followed by a traditional Spanish stew of potatoes, artichokes, and sausage and a light tomato sauce. Dessert consisted of a slice of hard French cheese (almost crunchy), a thin slice of a thick Quince jelly, and walnuts–Membrillo. A traditional Spanish dessert. If I had known this meal was waiting at the end of the road today, the road would have been much shorter.

It’s time for a shower, and to put my feet up for a little while. I hope you all have a blessed evening.

Only 9.8 miles / 18,900 steps.