I had no plans on getting out today and I didnโt get very far, maybe about 60 steps to a delightful restaurant: Tandoor – A Taste of Punjab.
I enjoyed a bright yellowed Garnele Korma. I looked that up before I went because I know that sometimes Indian food can get more than a little spicy. The korma is a mild dish; despite the look of the picture, it was lightly curried, and the shrimp were perfectly cooked. It was served over a very long grain white rice. The Cobra beer was also a first. I can recommend it and Iโm not a big beer person.
Iโm having a great time trying new foods while I am here.
I believe I played until about 1 a.m. this morning and did not take the time to write, although there are some jottings in my notebook that I may share here.
On this fine New Yearโs Day, it is pouring rain, washing the air and the streets, so it has been officially decided by the powers that be that today will be a true Sabbath rest day. Still, yesterdayโฆ 18,000 steps took me many places, the first of which was across town to the Cais do Sodrรฉ train station, where I boarded the train to Cascais, but got off on the third stop, Belรฉm. (FYI: it is really cheap to take the trains, ferry, buses, etc. I think yesterdayโs ride was 1,35โฌ.)
From the station, I walked to my first destination, The Padrรฃo dos Descobrimentos, The Monument to the Discoveries. As with all such sites, it was crowded, but I can only imagine what it would be like during the high tourist season.
The monument (170 feet tall) was originally only a temporary structure with a minimum of material for the 1940 Worldโs Fair, but twenty years later was reconstructed for permanence. It is Henry the Navigator (Dom Henrique of Portugal, his statue is 26 feet tall) at the front who was responsible for choreographing much of the early Portuguese maritime expansion. Other figures represent princesses, cartographers, clerics, etc., who participated in the expansion work. I took a moment to be in Oklahoma on the map in front of the monument.
A half mile further up the street is the Belรฉm Castle, the Tower of Saint Vincent, built in the 16th century. Its location was originally an island, guarding the entrance of the Tagus River, but the river did what rivers doโchanged courseโand the castle is now quite near the shore.
I then made my way across the main road/train tracks to see the Imperial Gardens (closed for remodeling) and St. Jeronimos (Jerome) Monastery (closed for the holiday), which was built in 1502. It is epic in size. To be able to walk through those doors would make it all worthwhile.
Then for lunch at Queijadas de Belรฉm where I had a pretty good steak cooked in olive oil and garlic. And, yes, that was an exceptionally generous pour of wine. The espresso following the meal helped me to recover.
From lunch, I found a nearby park and just sat and enjoyed while looking up at this handsome fella. Researching it back at the apartment, I discovered that he is Afonso de Albuquerque, 1st Duke of Goa and Viceroy of Portuguese India. To demonstrate the power he commanded, one hand rests on the hilt of his sword while, with the other hand, he points at the guns under his feet (under his command).
This is where I chose to sit and write for a bit. Choose for yourselfโฆ
Iโm sitting here thinking about how much/far Christianity has reached and helped the world to discover itself, and now that we have, we turn our backs on this faith. You cannot escape the symbols of Christianity, but like so much of the pastโthe world has thrown the baby out with the bathwater. It is sinful, but sin is no longer relevant in a world that chooses its own relevancy. It is out of fashion and has been discarded like last seasonโs dernier cri. We are dying, and we believe we are living.
Who is this man atop this pedestalโa pedestal supported by angels and the waves of the sea? Does his sword save him now, or has he become like us? Dead in shoes, going from place to place with no home or friend beside us. Ah! Now a seagull sits on his head and shits upon it! HA!
Children running in circles in playโarenโt we all.
I donโt know if those are good thoughts, odd thoughts, or no thoughts at all, but having spent my time out and about in this city without access to the internet, voicemail, email, text messages, Facebook, you name it, I have found myself once again thinking on my own and chasing ideas that have no bearing on the grand schemes of the world, but are enjoyable to let bounce inside my head. Enough of thatโฆ
The train took me back to my apartment and to the grocery store, which was jammed with holdiday shoppers and included a fight between a customer and store manager (when I say fight, it was more than words!) It was then that I decided to stay home for the rest of the evening. Iโve never been much on participating in these kind of holidays, but then I got hungry. I went in search of sushi (closed) so walked into the nearest restaurant, Taberna Da Baixaโฆ my goodness! Delicious.
For starters, I ordered Bacalao (I didnโt know what it was) and it wasโฆ amazing. Bacalao is actually dried and salted codfish which is then rehydrated and combined in other dishes. For the maincourse, I had the Sea Bass. Also amazing, especially when paired with a good wine, which the waitress was kind enough to do for me, because the only thing I really know about wine is whether or not I like it (oh, and how to make it.)
BeforeAfter
The restaurant would only hold about about 30 people and I was the only single person there (New Yearโs Eve and all). I must have been an oddity (or made one particular couple nervous) because she took a picture of me and then held it over for her husband(?) to see. He then kept taking these hard glances over his shoulder and staring at me. I have decided to immortalize their odd behavior in a short story. They will not like it if they read it.
I returned home after my meal and then at about ten minutes to midnight said to myself, โSelf, you are in Lisbon, Portugal and it is New Yearโs Eve. Theyโre about to shoot off fireworks and celebrate. What are you doing sitting here? Get yo bee-hind moving!โ I listened and I cheered with the crowds.
Feliz Ano Novo, meus queridos amigos.
FYI: I had checked schedules for when sites would be open, but they did not account for the holiday. My plan is to return later this week in hopes of getting in.
I left you last night anticipating the outcome of my adventures in laundry. I must report a slight failure in this endeavor. It turns out that hanging clothes on a rack in an apartment that dips to the high 50s at night and in a damp climate is not conducive to the drying of clothes. (My Dear Mr. Watson, Is this why weโve seen peoplesโ clothes hanging out for several days? Sherlock, your mind never ceases to amaze me!) So, this morning, I woke up to cold, wet clothes, which left me with a number of options 1) go out in the shirt I slept in and hear my grandmotherโs voice all day, โYou look like you slept in that shirt.โ 2) go out in a wet shirt and hear my grandmother’s voice all day, โYouโll catch your death of cold running around in that wet shirt!โ Or 3) find a way to dry the shirt. Option number 3) was the clear winner, but how?
I first hauled out the trusty space heater and had plans to lay the shirt across it and was, in fact, doing so (Sherlock was screaming in the back of my head the entire time) when I read the small print on top of said heater, โNฤO COBRIR.โ Iโm not sure if that is Portuguese or not, but Google Translate kicked that back as โNot Cover.โ Plan Bโฆ
Rooting through a bathroom cabinet, I found an industrial hairdryer, so for the last fifteen minutesโhad you been looking for meโyou would have found me in the bathroom with a hairdryer in one hand and an espresso in the other, patiently drying my clothes. I, at first, felt somewhat guilty about using the electricity in such a way. Still, seeing as Iโve had no use whatsoever for a hairdryer in the last fifteen yearsโฆ yeah, my carbon footprint in the hairdryer department remains small.
For the record, there was one other point when my grandmother spoke inside my head; it was when I set the hairdryer down in the wet sink (please remember that Iโve been lacking in the hairdryer doโs/donโts for several years). My grandmother said, โWho are you? Thomas Merton!โ I donโt actually know whether my grandmother knew who Thomas Merton was nor the suspicious circumstances of his untimely death, but I got the point and quickly removed the hairdryer from the sink.
My dear friends, I am caffeinated, have dry clothes, am eating a tasty breakfast, drinking one more espresso, and am about to head out on todayโs grand adventure. Iโll be back unless I run into that bearโฆ. hmmmmโฆ. maybe the hairdryer in the sink was todayโs bear? Sneaky bear.
Things I want to remember: my dream from last night.
I started early today in search of a church, but they were all closed (I started too early, or they pray later in the day in Lisbon), so I made my way to the ferry that crosses the River Tagus to Cacilhas. It took less than ten minutes to cross.
Initially, I thought I would walk up to the Santuรกrio de Cristo Rei, but when I could not spot it, I opted for a taxi. That was a smart move. It is much further than it looks. When you come out from behind the buildings that line the streets, the statue suddenly looms in front of you.
My first reaction was, โWow!โ My first thought was, โI hope thereโs an elevator! (There is, except for the last four flights.)
I spent an hour wandering around the grounds, looking up, and seeing the various other works of art, then went for a cafรฉ and a pastel de nataโa small custard pieโbefore heading to the top.
It took about an hour in line, but I enjoyed the bronze art (The Ten Commandments on either side of the door) and the main doors (St. John the Baptist holding the lamb, which I had to touch on my way in.) Eu sou a porta is printed above the doorโโI am the Door.โ Several other pieces of art adorned the walls on the inside, and one, in particular, caught my eye when I realized it was Pope John Paul II.
Up we went in the elevator, the short climb, andโฆ the first thing youโll notice is the wind! It blows quite strong at the top. Then, you look up. From the ground, the statue appears large, and standing on the platform at the base is not disappointing. The platform is 269 feet, and the figure of Christ is an additional 92 feet.
Images painted on the ceramic tiles at the base of the statueโฆ
And the viewโฆ
Just below the statue, a few flights down, is a gift shop and the Chapel of those who trusted in the Heart of Jesus. I stopped for a few minutes to pray before taking the elevator back down.
Pope Benedict XVI offered a Perpetual Plenary Indulgence to all who visited, and I can use all the help I can get!
The Pilgrim’s Prayer:
After another taxi and ferry ride, I was back on the north side of the river. A bit of research last night told me that if I walked a few blocks north, I would come to the Rua Nova do Carvalho (The Pink Street!) Voila! Found it. (This is a complete 180ยฐ turn from the Cristo Rei, as this area of town was formally the red light district.) The street will definitely put a smile on your face, as will all the silly, wannabe social influencers (?) posing for pictures.
It was close to 3 p.m., and I had not eaten since an early breakfast, which led to a minor mistake: eating at a restaurant on The Pink Street. I wonโt name them (if you donโt have something nice to sayโฆ), but donโt make the mistake. So many people are going through that it is impossible to maintain good quality, although, at the end of the meal, the waiter provided me with a glass of a 10-year-old port wine that made me forget about the rest of the meal.
As I was making my way back to the apartment, I saw everyone facing me and taking pictures, so I turned, and there was one of the iconic Lisbon buildings: Elevador de Santa Justa. Too many things I read said, โDonโt waste your time or money riding the elevator to the top,โ but it was still fun to see.
Iโm back at the apartment, and this evening’s festivities are a bit more domestic: laundry.
Tomorrow is New Yearโs Eve. During the day, I plan to take a train to Belรฉm, about 30 minutes west, and tomorrow nightโif Iโm up for the crowdsโfireworks on the river. Keep you posted.
Yes, I posted earlier today but decided I needed at least one early night because who knows what New Yearโs weekend will bring in this city. Letโs begin with the lights. Disclaimer: I have not found them all but I will continue to look.
I was standing next to the Christmas tree at a few minutes to six and thought it would surely come on at six. It did, and everyone in the square cheered. You had to smile.
I discovered more lights as I wandered the streets, but I havenโt yet found the street lined with jellyfish. I will keep searching. (Now that I think of it, I havenโt come across the pink street either! that will definitely be an intentional search because I donโt think youโre allowed to come to Lisbon without seeing it.) Some additional lights, and they are spectacular.
The restaurant I was having supper at did not open until 6:30 p.m., so I wandered about for a bit and came across a church (no pictures becauseโฆ) that I did not expect. I went inside, and there was a service of the Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament underway. It was the time leading up to the prayers, and I had the opportunity to sit in peace with a dozen or so worshippers. I would have stayed, but the stupid cough kicked in, and I did not want to disturb folks. I will return at another time because the church was lovely (as was the service!) and I would like to spend more time there.
Supper: now, all you people who canโt stand my canned mackerelโฆ donโt freak out! because it was so very good! It began with fresh oysters on the half-shell, followed byโฆ
It was soooo amazingโoctopus (when in Portugal). Iโve had octopus sushi style, which is definitely โchewy,โ but this was so tenderโserved over pureed sweet potatoes, with an olive oil, tomato, onion, and other lovely goodness sauce. Had it with some sparking water and a nice red wine. Desert was ridiculous: Baixmar Floating Islandโthis was two scoops of a dense merangue โfloatingโ in a heavy vanilla creme. Lord, help us all. Had it with a nice flamed brandy and followed that up with an exceptional heavy port wine. People. People. People. When in Lisbon, please go to BaixaMar Lisboa for dinner. The service and the food were exceptional and you donโt have to order the octopus (although you should!)
RANDOM THINGSโฆ.
Remember how Florence and Rome were about not forgetting to look up? Lisbon is about not forgetting to look down. Every sidewalk is made of tilesโฆ
Someone was making hundreds of bubbles, and the children were delighted. Some strange old guy taking pictures was also.
Everyone loves a giant Panda.
And at the beginning of the evening was sunset, looking out across the river toward Cristo Rei and the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge.
Iโll be taking the ferry across the river tomorrow to visit the Cristo Rei.
I did not make my evening post yesterday, but this being a vacation and allโฆ yeah.
Day two was remarkable. I was able to get out and begin to discover the city and the food. When I left the apartment, I was on a mission that brought me hereโฆ
The Arco da Rua Augusta located on the banks of the Tagus River. The far shore was enshrouded in fog, so you get the artistic shot of the day.
From here, I followed the river banks and then turned into the city toward Se Cathedral of Lisbon, whichโfrom the outsideโresembles more of a castle than a church.
Over the yearsโit was built in the 12th century!!โit has suffered damage from several earthquakes, but each time, the people of Lisbon work to restore its beauty. So far, the churches in Lisbon are far more austere than those of Florence and Rome. In their architecture and appointments, they indicate strength. They are definitely places the crusaders would have felt at home. Inside is quite the same, with many side chapels adorned and beautiful statues. I plan to attend church here on Sunday.
Dear Altar Guild – Wondering if you could hook a brother up (just donโt tell the Bishop!) This is the dressing chamber of the Patriarch.
Finally, the view from outside on the ledge below the rose window.
The tour of the cathedral is said to take 40 minutesโฆ well, after spending two and a half hours poking around every corner, I was hungry. I wandered the streets near the cathedral and found Restaurante Ruca, which instead of being filled with tourists, was filled with locals. Began with a creamy seafood soup, followed by baked cod, new potatoes, and cabbage. I had the meal with sparkling water, a nice glass of port wine, and finished with an expresso.
After lunch, it was time for another church: Igreja Sao Domingos, Church of St. Dominic. Work on the church began in 1241 and was completed in 1748. It is a church of great history and great tragedy. Between various earthquakes and a massive fire in 1959, it is a miracle that it is still standing. It is beautiful, just the same.
I was a few โHail Marysโ away from finishing my Rosary when I had a coughing spell and had to leave. It is distant, but you can still smell the smoke from the fire, and there is still evidence of those flames. Touch the door, and your hand will come away black.
From here, I made my way back to the apartment and had plans for a light supper and then back out to experience the lights, but then I met a Sikh. In this case, Sandeep (I believe I have his name correct) is the Sikh I met at the Deep Ink Zone Tattoo only a few steps from my apartment. I asked if I could set up an appointment and was told, โHow about tonight?โ For eight hours, my Sikh friend never lost focus. It was 4 a.m. when I finished up, so I will be out seeing the lights tonight.
I began my travels at 5:30 a.m. Sunday morning. I arrived at the VRBO twenty-eight hours later. Iโm pretty sure day one would have gone much better if I had been able to sleep on any of the three flights, but as it wasโฆ barely a wink.
My first flight was delayed by an hour, but that was OK. For the life of me I couldnโt figure out why they had be go to Salt Lake City and then to Rome, instead of flying east, but as it turns outโฆ weโll just call it providence. Last I heard, because of the winter storm โbombโ, there were over 1,400 flights cancelled. Salt Lake had to wait for a plane to arrive, but otherwise, I flew over all the mess below. Hereโs a shot flying over the Rockies and then another of Mormon Central as I landed in Salt Lake. (I can never get good pics looking out a plane window.)
After a few hours, I caught the flight to Rome, which was a little over nine hours. Not much to report there. Listened to a book, watched a movie, and stared into space (while trying to sleep.) I looked for the Eiffel Tower as I was flying into Rome, but maybe itโs not lit up at 1 a.m. Maybe you can find in the photo below.
I searched for some M&Ms while in Rome, but it appears to be an M&M free zone, so I had to settle for some of the finest chocolate Iโve ever put in my mouth. When in the Rome airport, if you need something to cheer you up a bit, I can highly recommend this. You wonโt be disappointed.
After another short delay due to weather, it was time for the final leg of the travels. Below is youโll see the coastline of Portugal and a quick shot I took of the Cristo Rei. Iโll take the ferry across the Tagus River and see it properโฆ probably a day trip. Look at the clouds rolling overโฆ so pretty.
And then there was Lisbonโฆ
For the next two hours, I thought I had made a terrible mistake by trying this on my own. I got seriously lost. Fortunately I was not conscripted by the Russain army.
Iโm not sure if it is Google Maps not working well here or cellular data not so good, either wayโฆ I took the right subway out of the airport, but then missed the connecting stop. I did not know there was a connecting stop, so I rode awhile. I apparently looked lost because a very kind lady told me it was the end of the line. I said, โThank you,โ and got off instead of riding back and starting again. I thought, โHey. Google Maps will get me where I need to go.โ It did not.
I wandered for about an hour and a half trying to figure things out. I called my carrier, attempting to get data working. I ended up aimlessly walking about. Keep in mind that Iโm on about twenty-six hours and no sleep and havenโt had anything to eat in quite some time. I could not reach my host (he actually had emailed me instructions, butโฆ yepโฆ no data!)
I eventually found a policemanโhe did not speak English, and I did not see a name badge that I recognized, but if I gave him a name, it would be Angel. I explained my situation, and he listened. I showed him the hotel name where I was to meet my host. I asked/mimed if he could walk, and he said, โNo.โ The wrong train had gotten me about six miles from where I was supposed to be. Ugh. He was trying to direct me back to the proper subway, but my only word was, โTaxi.โ Angel walked me to a main street, flagged me a cab, told the driver where I needed to go, and stayed until I was off. Thank you, Angel.
Fifteen minutes later, I was deposited in front of the meeting place, and twenty minutes later, I met my host, Andre Fonesca. Andre has hooked me up with a fantastic apartment and helped me to learn how to get around. He has provided maps, places to see, etc. I donโt have access to Google Maps, but Andre gave me great confidence to head out and see this beautiful city. It isnโt all that difficult to get around once youโve got the lay of the land, and if all else fails, Iโll call a cab and be set.
Last night, I slept thirteen hours. At some point, a young couple got into it for a bit, but they didnโt bother me. It was cool, and then it started to rain. With the windows open, it doesnโt get much better.
Andre told me that the cruise ships arrive in the mornings and drive around with about fifteen busloads of folks, so it is best to go to some of the more popular places after lunch. That works for me because I really want to see this city at night. They have such amazing lights throughout.
For now, Iโm signing off, but I will update you all this evening. With my trusty map, Iโm headed outโฆ
Every trip must begin somewhere, and this one begins in a hotel room in OKC. Iโm making a few notes in the journal and trying to see how long I can make a bag of M&Ms last (based on the current consumption rate, it is not very long.)
As it is Christmas Day, everything is closed, including the restaurant and bar in the hotel, so I had a turkey sandwich from the snack area and itโll do just fine. Glad that folks can be home with their families. (FYIโฆ the M&Ms are gone.)
The current adventure begins bright and early tomorrow morning. OKC to Salt Lake City to Rome to Lisbon. This time tomorrow I should be close to crossing the US coastline and over the Atlantic. Most of the trip will be spent in Lisbon, but I do have a few day excursions, one of which will take me to Fatima. There are so many other things to see that I wonโt try and list them here, so follow along and Iโll share the journey with you.
This is my first adventure like this alone and Iโve only been on one other, so if you get a call from me and Iโve somehow been conscripted into the Russian army, then youโll know that I made a wrong turn somewhere.
The Virgin with Angels, also known as The Song of the Angels by William-Adolphe Bouguereau
An elderly man in Phoenix calls his son in New York and says, โI hate to ruin your day, but I have to tell you that your mother and I are divorcing; forty-five years of misery is enough.โ
โPop, what are you talking about?โ the son screams.
“We can’t stand the sight of each other any longer,” the old man says. “We’re sick of each other, and I’m sick of talking about this, so you call your sister in Chicago and tell her,” and he hangs up.
Frantic, the son calls his sister, who explodes on the phone.
โThey’re not getting divorced if I have anything to do about it,โ she shouts, โI’ll take care of this.โ
She calls Phoenix immediately and screams at the old man, โYou are NOT getting divorced. Don’t do a single thing until I get there. I’m calling my brother back, and we’ll both be there tomorrow. Until then, don’t do a thing, DO YOU HEAR ME?โ and hangs up.
The elderly man hangs up his phone, turns to his wife, and says, โOkay, they’re coming for Thanksgivingโฆ now what do we tell them for Christmas?โ
When it comes to being together, we can go to a great extentโanything from traveling long distances to manipulating the circumstancesโwhatever it takes. St. Paul speaks to us about being the Body of Christ, but being together is even more than that.
Maybe you remember from school Maslowโs Hierarchy. It is the pyramid that breaks down the various needs in our lives. At the top are the physiological needs: air, food, sleep, and the like. Next are the safety needs: health, security, etc. And immediately following this is our need for belonging and being lovedโthe need for others.
There are many, myself included, who can spend extended periods of time by themselves, but eventually, even the greatest of loners need companionship. We see this even in God: Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. Richard of St. Victor has a beautiful explanation of why God is a Trinity of PersonsโI wonโt bore you with the details tonightโbut it is based on love and this need, even for God, to have relationship.
The relationship between the Holy Trinity is perfect, but we know that our relationships, even the very best, are far from perfect. They tend to be messy. If that is the case, God is perfect, and we are messy, then why would he bother becoming one of us?
We read tonight that as the shepherds were tending their flocks, an angel of the Lord appeared to them and said, โDo not be afraid; for see– I am bringing you good news of great joy for all the people: to you is born this day in the city of David a Savior, who is the Messiah, the Lord. This will be a sign for you: you will find a child wrapped in bands of cloth and lying in a manger.โ The angel announced the birth of God into the world.
Jesusโ birth will ultimately bring about our salvationโeternal life with God in that Heavenly Kingdom, but what about in the meantime? From the day we are born to the day we die? Why would God, who is in a perfect relationship, choose to enter into our lives and become a part of our far from perfect, messy relationships? Itโs not like God needed us. So, why?
OSur relationship with God was wrecked in the Garden of Eden when Adam and Eve took a bite of that apple, but it was fully restored with the birth of Jesus. It was restored so that we can always be with Him, whether we are alone or with others. God humbled himself to be bornโnot because he needed us, but because we need Himโฆ and He knows it.
Henri Nouwen writes, โGod came to us because he wanted to join us on the road, to listen to our story, and to help us realize that we are not walking in circles but moving towards the house of peace and joy. This is the great mystery of Christmas that continues to give us comfort and consolation: we are not alone on our journey. The God of love who gave us life sent his only Son to be with us at all times and in all places, so that we never have to feel lost in our struggles but always can trust that he walks with usโฆ. Christmas is the renewed invitation not to be afraid and to let himโwhose love is greater than our own hearts and minds can comprehendโbe our companion.โ (You Are the Beloved, p.391)
Tonight, we light the Christ candle.
โIn the beginning was the Word, and the Word was with God, and the Word was God. He was in the beginning with God. All things were made through him, and without him was not any thing made that was made. In him was life, and the life was the light of men. The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.โ
Jesus is this lightโฆ our lightโฆ shining in the darkness. He came, as Nouwen told us, โbecause he wanted to join us on the roadโ to โbe our companion.โ Jesus said, โI am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will not walk in darkness, but will have the light of life.โ Jesus came to join us on the road of our lives. To beโnot โaโ light, but the light that guides us. He also came to give us this light of himself so that we could become โchildren of light.โ (1 Thessalonians 5:5)
Tonight, I invite you to step out of the darkness and walk with Jesus on the road. Iโve no idea where God will lead you in this life, but I do know the final destination, which is what the journey is ultimately all about, for he will be with us now so that we can be with him then, having eternal life in Our Fatherโs Heavenly Kingdom.
โDo not be afraid; for seeโthis is good news of great joy for all people: for us was born in the city of David a Savior, who is the Messiah, the Lordโฆ the Light of all who call on his name.โ
Let us pray: Gracious and loving Father, you make this holy night radiant with the splendor of Jesus Christ our light. We welcome him as Lord, the true light of the world. Bring us to eternal joy in the kingdom of heaven, where he lives and reigns with you and the Holy Spirit, one God, for ever and ever. Amen.
Candle in a Cave 