The Rev. Dr. John Toles
El Monasterio de Bargota
All that remains of this 12th century monastery are a few cut stones, and I had to walk an extra mile to get to it, but… it was as though I were surrounded by these monks from 900 years ago and we were praying as one. A beautiful place.
And the stained glass windows were lovely
Iglesia del Crucifijo de Puente la Reina
From the sign in front: The primitive temple of Santiago was Romanesque, exactly from the 12th century.
Today’s walk will be the longest so far. Officially 14.7 miles. For the life of me, I can’t figure out why someone would put a mountain in the middle of it, but there it is–about a 1200 foot climb. I thought of the scripture that said that we could say to the mountain be uprooted and planted in the sea; however, knowing that people have been walking this way for over 1000 years I suspect that many have prayed those exact same words before me. Apparently it is God’s will that we climb… and so we climb. Therefore, seeing as how I will be winded by the time I reach the top, I’ll save my breath for a different prayer.
It is not intentional, but we all have a way of grouping up as we walk along. The first picture is looking back towards Pamplona, and the other one is looking forward towards that silly mountain. The silly mountain wasn’t too bad and the reward at the end was absolutely brilliant.
From here we climbed. It’s funny that you will pass and then be passed by the same people all along. Just depending on when you take a break or how much oxygen you need. (I can’t believe that there are people stopping to take smoke breaks! I think that would just about kill me.)
On the way up, I stopped in a small church in Zariquiegui for a few minutes—Iglesia San Andrés— and received a stamp, and was also given an olive leaf.
I only need one stamp a day, so this one will be it.
At the top we reached perhaps one of the most iconic scenes of the Camino de Santiago.
The wind was absolutely screaming up there. I have my hat crammed down on my head just so that it will not end up somewhere in the Mediterranean sea which is several hundred miles away. Looking west, the horizon just kept going.
Regarding the statues, from Jean Mitchell-Leham’s book The Lore of the Camino de Santiago: A Literary Pilgrimage: The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession. Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims. Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.
After about a total of 15 miles I finally entered town. I’m not sure who the city architects were but this is an interesting place. The more modern portion has wide streets and so on, but the older part of town where I am staying is quite unique. I’m guessing it was designed to assist in the event of an invasion.
More pictures of churches. This is where I stopped. Pray my rosary today. It was stunning. Very peaceful.
I thought I’d treat myself to a nice dinner. Ordered the Argentinian steak—A) these folks need to order some Oklahoma beef OR B) that cow was old when Charlemange was raiding the countryside—I don’t think the Argentinians would have claimed it OR C) chef needs to retake the cooking steak class.
After all that, I am in my room. Oh… My room. It is small quite nice. I’m getting used to sleeping on twin beds again. I haven’t rolled out once. And after walking umpteen miles… Who even notices?
Me lying in that twin bed dictating this post. A little too pooped even to sit up at the moment.
17.3 miles/35,599 steps.
424.04 miles to Santiago.
Please comment below. When I return, we’ll combine some of your journal entries with mine and produce a printed journal of our adventure.
WEEK THREE PROMPT
Along the way, it is sometimes difficult to determine the next step. One wrong step can end your Camino. Along your way, how do you determine your next step when the path ahead is difficult? 
Church of San Ignacio Chapel of Perpetual Adoration. The Blessed Sacrament was on the altar, and so had a time of adoration as well. 
Pamplona is definitely a city. All day and all night you hear the sounds of horns and sirens and people. I’m looking forward to the day here, but I’m also looking forward to getting back into the country and the quieter places.
This morning’s alarm clock was brought to you by the guy walking down the street yelling at the top of his lungs. That’s OK. It was almost time to get up.
I made a quick coffee and I had a few cookies before heading off for mass. There were not many people out this early. The air was cool. I found the church pretty quick, so I stopped in and had a café con Leche and a pastry. Then I made my way back up to the church.
from the plaque out front: CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARÍA LA REAL — Pamplona Cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries over the remains of a Romanesque church. The neoclassical façade from 1799 is by Ventura Rodríguez and the interior is French Gothic.
It was a full sung, Latin mass. I didn’t understand a word but the bells helped. The sermon lasted about five minutes, and even though I couldn’t understand it, the dean of the cathedral seemed quite passionate.
Located in the center of the cathedral is The Royal Mausoleum with the death statues of Carlos III el Noble and his wife Leonor de Trastamara, Monarchs of Navarre. This sculpture is a unique work of European XVth century sculpture and was carried out between 1413 and 1419 by Jehan Lome de Tournai and his craftsmen.
For those back home in Oklahoma, I found the four Evangelist and identified our favorite.
Coming out of the church, and to the south a bit, you arrive at the Townhall of Pamplona. You can follow this link to read all about the symbolism in the work.
After all that, I was ready for another café con Leche. I found a beautiful little café where I also ordered a baked scallop. I can highly recommend this tasty little treat.
I have less than 3 miles on my feet this morning, but they are already asking to be put back up again, so I headed back to the hotel to find a place to do some laundry. I started to do it myself when the gentleman cleaning the rooms interrupted me and said I could not do that because they were washing the sheets and all of that for the hotel. He said for 5€ he would do it for me and have it to my room by 10 o’clock tonight. I took him up on that offer. I’ll go back out later today, but for now I’m just going to enjoy the quiet.
I made it back out today and just wandered around a bit. I came across a beautiful garden. I had a glass of wine and some tasty little treat that I have no idea what was. If I see something that I’ve never tried before, I’ll give it a day in court. I have not been disappointed yet.
Afterward, I walked until I found a church that was open and stopped to pray my rosary. I timed it so that I would be praying while my church in Oklahoma was celebrating the mass. I think it worked out.
Tomorrow will be my longest walking day yet. Almost 15 miles. I’m going to rest my toes for a bit now and then try and get a good night’s sleep. The weather is supposed to be much cooler tomorrow and probably raining. In my opinion, that makes for good walking weather.
5.2 miles/10,023 steps. I’m not a step closer to Santiago than I was at this time yesterday. The beautiful thing, this is not a race.
Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.
Basílica de la Trinidad de Arte. I actually stopped about an hour before I arrived at my final location. This church was built in the 12th century, although it has been renovated extensively since then. It’s quite small but beautiful. It was also about 20° cooler in there than it was outside.
The picture is not mine, but there is a bridge that crosses the river right there at the church.
I think it’s from all the downhill walking yesterday, but it feels like someone has inserted hot coals into each of my calves. Stretch. Stretch. Stretch. All shall be well. 
I made it to the top of the most recent hill. There are plenty of them here. As I started my way down I came across all these purple flowers. It struck me that Santiago is still over 450 miles away and that it’s OK to stop and smell the flowers for just a moment. It will not delay my arrival at all.
I have a new found taste for Coca-Cola. After putting in 10 miles it is the most delicious thing on the planet. As I sat there, drinking my ice cold Coca-Cola and visiting with a girl from Canada, who has a love of hockey, I looked over and there was a lady who is walking the Camino with her baby. The girl from Canada and I both felt rather ashamed at being tired. The baby was no more than three or four months old, and the momma was carrying the baby all along the way. I got nothing.
I just saw a sign that said Pamplona is about 8.3 km/5 miles. I said to myself, “Self, that is less than three times around Crosslin Park.” I’ve got to keep moving.
I don’t know how well this will come out, but it is the valley before Pamplona. It is a panoramic shot. Go ahead and say it, “Gorgeous!”
Soon afterward, I came to the church where I said my rosary for today. It was so nice and cool inside. Probably no more than about 40 people could have fit. I’m not quite sure how I got this shot but I thought it came out beautiful.
I have arrived at my hotel in Pamplona. It is the Aloha Hostel. I’m not sure that Aloha is a Spanish word. And, yes, if you thought of the movie, Hostel, when you read the name… So did I!
Now, please do not judge me. I was hungry, I was tired, and I did not want to figure out anything else. It’s also right next-door to my hotel. I had a Pepsi to go with it only because they did not serve Coca-Cola. I ordered the Alabama. When I said, “Alabama,” the girl behind the counter, looked at me and wondered what language I was speaking. I wanted to teach her how to say it properly, maybe the way Boudreaux would have said it, but I just kept my mouth shut and sat down and drank my Pepsi. The next time you’re in Pamplona I can recommend this pizza. I thought all those little yellow things were slices of garlic, but it turns out it was corn. Never had corn on a pizza before. I don’t think that’s American. 🤪
I am now in my room with my shoes and socks off and my pajamas on. It’s only 5:45 PM but I have no intentions of going anywhere else today. I’ve got my window open so I can hear the city below and they can have a beautiful Saturday night, and I will sit here and listen to them enjoying it. Tomorrow I plan on exploring the city. I’ve seen the top of the church here in town and it is amazing. I hope to go to mass there sometime tomorrow morning. That is if I wake up tomorrow morning.
16.5 miles/31,604 steps. Right now the bathroom is about four steps away and that seems like a pretty fair distance.
Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.
The backyard. I did find the church, but it was closed. There was really nowhere nearby to pray, so I came back to my room and sat in the backyard. There’s worse things that could happen.
Candle in a Cave 