After attending the Gospel Night service on Friday, which was in Norwegian, I decided that I needed a service in English. I Googled “English Church Bergen” and was directed to Mariakirken (St. Mary’s Church.) I should have known by the name that I was going somewhere special, but had no idea.
St. Mary’s is the oldest existing building in Bergen, having been built between 1130-70. There have been renovations since, especially due to two fires, but much of the original building is intact.
The congregation is a part of the Church of England/Anglican Church in Norway. They were very welcoming.
I had to know how an Anglican congregation could be in the oldest church building in Bergen. Simple. They rent it. The city wanted there to be a weekly service held in the church, but when it was in Norwegian, it seems that anyone visiting would turn and leave. However, when they started having a CoE service in English, people stayed. Based on my observations, it is a thriving church.
There is much to see inside, but your eyes are immediately drawn to the altar (no explanation needed.)
The pictures do it no justice. It is radiant. From the Bergen website:
The alter reredos
This is the church’s oldest treasure, and can be traced to the end of the 15th century. It is North German work, probably from Lübeck. The screen is a triptych, the carving of the central panel depicting Mary and the infant Jesus. Here she is shown as the woman in Revelations: «clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet, and upon her head a crown of twelve starts». On her right we find St Olav, above St Antony, whose intercession was held to cure the plague. On her left stands St Catharine with her sword and wheel, above St Dorothea. On the side panels we see all the apostles except Judas, but including Paul. All bear their symbols, and hold the book of Gospel. The hinged side panels were only unfolded in high festivals, their reserve sides facing the church at all other times.
Second to the triptych is the pulpit. This is definitely not a protestant pulpit like I’ve seen in the Lutheran churches. Also, from the website:
The pulpit of St Mary’s is something of an enigma in Norwegian art history; it resembles no other pulpit in the country. It was presented to the church in 1676, by a group of prominent merchants who had their place of business on the old Hanseatic Warf (Bryggen). Who actually made it is unknown, but the use of tortoiseshell and lacquer work is foreign to this country, and would suggest a link with countries connected with East Asia, perhaps Holland. The pulpit and the stair-case are divided into panels by richly decorated columns. Here we find eight of the nine original cardinal virtues, represented by women with various attributes. Penitence with a pelican, Prudence with a snake, the naked Truth, Chasity with two turtle doves, Patience with a lamb, Hope with a dove, and part of an anchor, Faith with book and cross, and Charity with two children.
I fiddled with the color on the image below to bring out the image. It took me a minute, but determined that the astrological symbols are being depicted, revolving around the sun. This is not astrology as we know it, but an understanding of the universe (the heavens) and all that is in it. The fact that the heavens are above the preacher, while he (and, at the time, it would have been a he) stands upon the cardinal virtues, paints a rather dramatic understanding of the proclamation of the Word. Not sure that it says anything about the one proclaiming. 🤣
Throughout the church are other beautiful paintings and statues.
I tried to sort out what was being said in the text below, but was not able to, so I thought of it as the Prayers of the People. I’ll do some more on trying to translate and let you know what I come up with.
From the balcony and the side altar.
One thing I read last night about Norway said to not turn down an invitation as it is considered very rude, so when I was invited to coffee hour by the deacon, I went. Had a tasty cup of coffee and wonderful conversation with Michael, from Australia, and the Reverend Fredrik Ulseth, who was the supply priest for today. Father Fredrik preached a bold and uncompromising sermon. I liked it!
What did I do afterward? You guessed it. Returned to the Fish Market and had a yummy salmon burger. Glad I’m doing all this walking or I’d be popping buttons on my cassock when I return.
I’m looking forward to watching the youth via FaceBook at St. Matthew’s a bit later today.
A blessed Pentecost to you all!
Candle in a Cave 
What a gorgeous church!! So ornate, and so much to look at.
Yes, and very unlike all others in Norway. I confess, I love the ornate beauty. I suppose the others project a more humble message, but these proclaim the glory of God.
I very much like ornate churches as well. It seems like some churches have gotten so modern looking because everyone is so casual these days. I guess that’s ok for some people, but you are so right about proclaiming the glory of God in these beautiful churches.
A most beautiful and stunning work of art, St. Mary’s Church! I can only imagine sitting there, most likely with tears running down my cheeks, trying to take it all in and actually worship there. You are seeing so many marvelous things and I can’t wait for you to share them on the big screen. Carry on, world traveller!
Yes. It was difficult to pay attention. Thankfully, it really was a good sermon.