Travel: Ghent, Belgium to Rouen, France – Day Five & Six

My days may be off, but we are seeing the world. I hope this post is more than a photo dump like the other day, butโ€ฆ Iโ€™ve experienced so much. Letโ€™s see what happensโ€ฆ

Yesterday was a travel day extraordinaire! Twelve hours from point A to point B. One of those hours was stupidity on my part in not knowing how to read my ticket, the other eleven hours were automobiles and buses (two of them to be exact). The first half of the trip was good, but when I hit Paris โ€” OY! Note to self: when reading your bus ticket, donโ€™t look for destinationโ€”look for bus number. I was probably standing directly next to my outbound bus for thirty minutes, but the board never said, โ€œRouen.โ€ Instead, it said the next stop (whatever that was), and I missed it. Had to purchase a new ticket for the next bus. Dang near missed that one as well until I realized my mistake.

There was a fun sight along the way:

Paris traffic was c.r.a.z.y. and the bus driver headed down the wrong street twice and had to back up! but I finally arrived (two hours later than planned) in Rouen, France. Life is good! Iโ€™m in France for Pete sake! (Sorry, โ€œPierre sake!) The fella checking me in at the hotel was VERY French in attitude, but I smiled. It was dark, but I decided to see what I could see. It was so worth the 12 hours of traveling. I came around a cornerโ€ฆ I donโ€™t know that a tear ran down my cheek, but it was a close call.

This morning, I woke up feeling refreshed and ready to see what the city offered, but I did have one destination in mind. First things first, thoughโ€ฆ I went back to the cathedral to see the inside, but no sooner had I arrived and they were ushering us all out. What? Turns out, Mass was about to begin. Well, my Anglican friends, I kept my mouth shut and had a seat. What a surprise and blessing for me: from my Facebook postโ€ฆ โ€œWhen your heathen soul gets lucky and you show up on time to attend mass with the Archbishop of Rouen and Primate of Normandy, Monseigneur Dominique Lebrun. Second photo from web.โ€

At this point I was feeling good. I continued with my tour, seeing what I could see. Only problem: so much of what I wanted to see was behind locked gates and I wasnโ€™t allowed to get close. Just you wait! My first time through the 12-century gothic Cathรฉdrale Notre-Dame de Rouen.

1000 years in the weather has done much damage to everything. They are working on the restoration, but it is a slow process.
St. James: notice the shell on his cap. Having walked a portion of the Camino de Santiago, that shell is like a secret sign and your eye is immediately drawn to it. I stopped dead in the middle of a street later in the day. Iโ€™ll show you that in a minute.
I would like to say that It was Jesus who caught my attention in this picture, but it was that red hair. I donโ€™t know what that says about me. I havenโ€™t identified the artist.

Weโ€™ll be back at 2:30 p.m. but for now, I headed to my next destinationโ€”and the point of coming to Rouen to begin withโ€”the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.

Friends, Joan of Arc has been a hero of mine forever. This was on the list of places to visit from the first time I came to Europe. It was simple, noisy, dirty, smelly, drunks being loud, people oblivious, none of it matteredโ€ฆ I pulled out my small rosary and rubbed it in the dirt of this place.

I came back later in the day and found the spot with the sun directly behind the marker.

The small Joan of Arc medal on my rosary that came home to her ashesโ€ฆ

Sitting here shaking my headโ€ฆ donโ€™t know how to explain.

I stopped and had some lunch, seafood, then made my way back to the cathedral. I had read somewhere that there is a tour that begins at 2:30 on Saturday. It is not posted anywhere or publicized. Show up and join in. I did. For the next three hours, I visited the parts of the cathedral I wasnโ€™t allowed to get close to and parts I didnโ€™t even know existed! Amazing. There were only ten of us on the tour. Did I mention it was all in French? I didnโ€™t understand a word said, but it was absolutely fascinating.

The Baptistryโ€ฆ

It was all I could do not to straighten that candle!

The Joan of Arc side chapelโ€ฆ

Chapelle de la Vierge (Chapel of the Virgin)โ€ฆ

St. Georgeโ€ฆ โ€œKill the dragon!!โ€

And I havenโ€™t forgottenโ€ฆ

Some of you may remember this photoโ€ฆ

It was taken in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, the starting point of the Camino de Santiago in 2024. Well, today, as I was walking along, I came across thisโ€ฆ

The Camino is not done with me. It keeps calling in the most remarkable ways. Just wait until this October! Iโ€™m still blown away by this development, but thatโ€™s later. For nowโ€ฆ Yeahโ€ฆ โ€œBuen Camino!โ€ Mine continues! God is good.

My day and my life. It was and is a good one. Tomorrow, is another travel day. Back to Luxembourg. There are some places I want to see and Iโ€™m planning on a couple of โ€œvacationโ€ days where I look out the window of my hotel room, read my book, sip some wine, and not worry about the world too much.

Blessings to you all.

Travel: Ghent, Belgium – Day Four

Today was quieter and slower. It was museum day at the Museum voor Schone Kunsten Gent (MSK).

Iโ€™ll be honest, there are only so many landscapes and portraits that will remain interesting to me, and this place had its share, but there are several pieces of religious art (of course!) that got my attention. The pictures may be at weird angles or Iโ€™m only showing detail shots because the lighting in the museum was odd and there was a lot of glare.

First up is The Annunciation by Peter Paul Rubens.

Rubens’ work emphasises both the sacred and secular nature of the event. Gabriel is accompanied by a ray of divine light and two plump putti, the latter of whom shower Mary with petals. Mary receives the message in a domestic interior. The vase of flowers on the table, the sewing basket and the sleeping cat all enhance the intimate atmosphere. Rubens began this canvas in 1610. That he did not complete it until much later has been deduced from certain stylistic details such as the use of light and space and the overall dynamism of the scane. Rubens sold the painting to the Marquis of Leganรฉs during a diplomatic visit to the spanish court in Madrid in 1628. The latter gave it a place in his private chapel.

Honestly, I think the cat wanders from one painting to the next, as I saw it again in The Supper at Emmaus by Jean-Baptiste de Champaigne.

Thereโ€™s actually an interesting history of cats in art. Definitely worth a bit more research.


Next up is The Calling of St. Matthew by Marinus van Reymerswale. Iโ€™m quite certain you know why this one was selected. (Hint: I serve as priest at St. Matthewโ€™s Episcopal Church.) It is clear from the painting, even with all the hustle and bustle going on around him, Matthew only has eyes for Jesus.


Next was a very large Last Judgment scene by Raphaรซl Coxcie, reminiscent of and compared to the Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel (not a favorable comparison). It caught my eye because of the subject, but then there was this one little detail that got me to sit down and think. Iโ€™ve circled it below.

Perhaps the closeup will show my interestโ€ฆ

The painting was originally placed in the courtroom at the town hall in Ghent (apparently, many courtrooms held similar paintings of the Last Judgment as a reminder to the punishments in store for a life of crimeโ€”should we post more of these?) Question: Is the woman holding up a small mirror? The image in the mirror isnโ€™t clear, so it could be anyone. Was Coxcie asking, โ€œDo you see yourself? Will you end up here with us?โ€ I stopped to consider that and prayed that I would be one of those on the left side of the canvas being called up to Paradise. Not related at allโ€”for the Stephen King fans out thereโ€”doesnโ€™t the image in the mirror look like Pennywise? I suppose theyโ€™ll float down there for sure!

Shut up, John, and show us some more pictures. Okay.


Detail photo of Interior of St. Peterโ€™s Church in Rome by Wilhelm Schubert van Ehrenberg:


Detail of The Crypt of the San Martino ai Monti Basilica in Rome by Franรงois-Marius Granet:


Saint Sebastian released by the Roman widow Irene and her servant by Melchior de la Mars:

Interesting Saint fact: Although most frequently depicted as being shot by arrows, St. Sebastian survived this initial attempt at martyrdom. He was nursed back to health by Irene, but later would be clubbed to death under the orders of Emperor Diocletian (not a very nice guy.)


Finally, my favorite in the museum: Mary Magdalene by Alfred Stevens:

Early in her career, star actress Sarah Bernhardt meets the Belgian painter Alfred Stevens. As the painter par excellence of Parisian high society, he introduces Bernhardt to painting. It is the beginning of a close friendship. She takes lessons in his painting class for women and models for several portraits. Stevens may also have been inspired by Bernhardt’s captivating gaze for this painting of Mary Magdalene. The skull and the desolate landscape in the background reflect the theme of the converted sinner who withdraws from public life, becoming a hermit. Typical of Stevens’ approach is the sensuality and melancholic gaze with which Mary Magdalene looks at the viewer. This obscures the religious meaning of the remorseful penitent, which shocked the general public at the time.

You be the judge: a young Sarah Bernhardt. She was Jewish, but early in her life, she wanted to become a nun.


On my way back to the hotel, I saw where the Good Lord was creating His own art. Spring is springing in Belgium


Tomorrow is a travel day. Iโ€™m off to Rouen, France to see Joan of Arc. If you ever decide to travel to Ghent, I highly recommend picking up a CityCard Ghent (available at many places). You can get a 48- or 72-hour card. At first, the price seems high, but I got my moneyโ€™s worth yesterday. It covers all public transportation, museums, water taxis, and many other places, if not completely, a large percentage. For example, I paid โ‚ฌ49 for a 48 hour card. I took 12 bus rides yesterday. At โ‚ฌ3/rideโ€ฆ yeah. Plus, all you have to do is show it to the driver and youโ€™re good to go.

Iโ€™ll probably have a few travel pictures tomorrow, but will definitely see you in Rouen!


Travel: Ghent, Belgium – Day Three

What a day and what a long one. Tonight, I want to get some pictures out, but there wonโ€™t be as much commentaryโ€ฆ or weโ€™ll see what happens. I did a lot of walking, and I saw so many amazing things, so letโ€™s take a look. Warning: this is essentially an unedited photo dump.

I sort of learned how to navigate the public transportation in Japan, so I didnโ€™t feel too intimidated here. I jumped on and after a 30 minute bus ride with one transfer, I easily made my way to the old city and Gravensteen Castle. It dates from 1180 and the current restoration took place between 1893 and 1903. There are multiple spiral staircases, but I managed without too much huffing and puffing.

If you need a bit of medieval armory, they have some very interesting pieces. The one sword is about six feet long. Good luck swinging that!

Later in the day, I took a scenic boat tour. This is the view of the castle from the boat:

Then I walked and enjoyed some of the sights of the old city:

I then entered the Church of St. Nicholas. The day was cool, but the temperature dropped at least ten degrees as I enteredโ€ฆ not that my poor heathen soul was the reason for the decrease.

One of the โ€œartisticโ€ shots of the dayโ€ฆ

And then, I was at St. Bavoโ€™s Cathedral. I hadnโ€™t planned on it, in fact, I have a ticket for tomorrow, but thenโ€ฆ when in Ghent! The pictures do no justice to the Ghent Altarpiece and the Mystical Lamb. I bought a book and will happily show it to you. Truly magnificent!

And now for something completely different! Graffiti Alleyโ€ฆ this narrow alleyway is covered from floor to ceiling in graffiti. There is only one shop along the way, and they serve an exceptional espresso and make the most decadent chocolate treatsโ€”mine was a cookie filled with raspberry cream and covered with dark chocolate. Yeahโ€ฆ I ate it all.

At this stage, the dogs were barking, and I was ready for a sit-down, although not quite ready to return to the hotel. A fifty-minute canal tour proved to be just the ticket.

The tour guideโ€”who could jump from English, French, German, and Flemish without skipping a beatโ€”actually took his hands off the wheel and took the same picture above. Said it was his favorite view and this was the most beautiful he had ever seen it. I thought I had better do the same.

That is all the photos for now. I returned to the hotel, had a nice cold Belgian beerโ€ฆ

โ€ฆand worked on that short story for the Writing Battle. Perhaps I shouldnโ€™t be drinking beer while writing, because it has taken a turn for the more-weird-than-usual, but it is fun. Tomorrow is museum day. Iโ€™ll try to do more writing with the post but I do hope you enjoy todayโ€™s pictures. They truly do none of this beautiful city justice.

Travel: Ghent, Belgium โ€” Rouen, France โ€” Luxembourg – Day 1 & 2

Many miles and Iโ€™m not counting.

I left the house about 3 p.m. Sunday. I arrived at my hotel in Luxembourg around 9 p.m. on Monday. There is a seven-hour time difference, so it comes to about 23 hours travel time with no sleep (question for the solo-travelers: how do you sleep on a plane? I just canโ€™t seem to fall asleep. Exhausted, but awake.) After arriving at the NH Luxembourg Hotel, I took a nice hot shower, had a lovely glass of wine, and then crawled in for about 9 hours. A good nightโ€™s rest for sure.

Today, I moved slowly, but was on the train to Ghent, Belgium at 10:11 a.m. after a nice breakfast at the hotel.

Journaling on the trainโ€ฆ

Arrived in Ghent after missing my !!six-minute!! transfer at the Brussels-Nord station. It was okay, another train came along in 11 minutes and I was off again.

After getting to my room, I came back down to the lobby of the Residence Inn by Marriott Ghent (a lovely hotel with very kind and helpful staff) and did the one thing youโ€™re supposed to do while in Belgiumโ€ฆ

And, yes, Iโ€™m at the White Rabbit bar.

I have two full days here and the agenda is beautifully packed. More to come. This evening, after a napโ€”the beer was good and, yes, I did have twoโ€”Iโ€™ll be working on my short story for the Writing Battle. You are given three images and five days to write a 2,500-word short story. My three imagesโ€ฆ

My inspiration for the story (I referenced it in a sermon a while back) is fromโ€ฆ

Darkness

By Lord Byron

I had a dream, which was not all a dream.
The bright sun was extinguish’d, and the stars
Did wander darkling in the eternal space,
Rayless, and pathless, and the icy earth
Swung blind and blackening in the moonless air;
Morn came and wentโ€”and came, and brought no day,
And men forgot their passions in the dread
Of this their desolation; and all hearts
Were chill’d into a selfish prayer for light:
And they did live by watchfiresโ€”and the thrones,
The palaces of crowned kingsโ€”the huts,
The habitations of all things which dwell,
Were burnt for beacons; cities were consum’d,
And men were gather’d round their blazing homes
To look once more into each other’s face;
Happy were those who dwelt within the eye
Of the volcanos, and their mountain-torch:
A fearful hope was all the world contain’d;
Forests were set on fireโ€”but hour by hour
They fell and fadedโ€”and the crackling trunks
Extinguish’d with a crashโ€”and all was black.
The brows of men by the despairing light
Wore an unearthly aspect, as by fits
The flashes fell upon them; some lay down
And hid their eyes and wept; and some did rest
Their chins upon their clenched hands, and smil’d;
And others hurried to and fro, and fed
Their funeral piles with fuel, and look’d up
With mad disquietude on the dull sky,
The pall of a past world; and then again
With curses cast them down upon the dust,
And gnash’d their teeth and howl’d: the wild birds shriek’d
And, terrified, did flutter on the ground,
And flap their useless wings; the wildest brutes
Came tame and tremulous; and vipers crawl’d
And twin’d themselves among the multitude,
Hissing, but stinglessโ€”they were slain for food.
And War, which for a moment was no more,
Did glut himself again: a meal was bought
With blood, and each sate sullenly apart
Gorging himself in gloom: no love was left;
All earth was but one thoughtโ€”and that was death
Immediate and inglorious; and the pang
Of famine fed upon all entrailsโ€”men
Died, and their bones were tombless as their flesh;
The meagre by the meagre were devour’d,
Even dogs assail’d their masters, all save one,
And he was faithful to a corse, and kept
The birds and beasts and famish’d men at bay,
Till hunger clung them, or the dropping dead
Lur’d their lank jaws; himself sought out no food,
But with a piteous and perpetual moan,
And a quick desolate cry, licking the hand
Which answer’d not with a caressโ€”he died.
The crowd was famish’d by degrees; but two
Of an enormous city did survive,
And they were enemies: they met beside
The dying embers of an altar-place
Where had been heap’d a mass of holy things
For an unholy usage; they rak’d up,
And shivering scrap’d with their cold skeleton hands
The feeble ashes, and their feeble breath
Blew for a little life, and made a flame
Which was a mockery; then they lifted up
Their eyes as it grew lighter, and beheld
Each other’s aspectsโ€”saw, and shriek’d, and diedโ€”
Even of their mutual hideousness they died,
Unknowing who he was upon whose brow
Famine had written Fiend. The world was void,
The populous and the powerful was a lump,
Seasonless, herbless, treeless, manless, lifelessโ€”
A lump of deathโ€”a chaos of hard clay.
The rivers, lakes and ocean all stood still,
And nothing stirr’d within their silent depths;
Ships sailorless lay rotting on the sea,
And their masts fell down piecemeal: as they dropp’d
They slept on the abyss without a surgeโ€”
The waves were dead; the tides were in their grave,
The moon, their mistress, had expir’d before;
The winds were wither’d in the stagnant air,
And the clouds perish’d; Darkness had no need
Of aid from themโ€”She was the Universe.