Trondheim – Candle in a Cave

28 May 202428 May 2024

Travel: Trondheim 2

A beautiful day for walking around the city. It started off in an12th century church, made a deviation into some level of hell, and came out the other side with a delicious espresso.

Vår Frue Kirke (The Church of Our Lady) is only a block from the hotel and is one of the oldest buildings in Trondheim, with parts of the building dating back to the 12th century. It now functions as a church, but also community outreach center for the poor. It is sponsored by the Cathedral.

I saw some pictures of the next stop, about a half mile further, and decided it might be interesting.

Oh.

My.

Goodness!

It was worth the trip to Trondheim. The Salamandernatten (The Salamander Night).

The Salamander Night is an art installation made by Trondheim artist Kjell Erik Killi Olsen for Sao Paulo’s biennial anniversary in Brazil in 1989. The installation is comprised of 72 sculptures, all of which are more than 3 metres high (about 10 feet). The Salamander Night was presented as a gift to Trondheim municipality by the artist in 2007. This wonderful piece of art may be seen in the premises of the bank “Sparebank1 Midt-Norge” in Sendre gate.

The light is quite low, so those pictures that are bright are adjusted or I used a flash so that you could see the sculptures.

Made a short video for your viewing pleasure. The sounds are from the cafe above, but they do add a bit of ambiance.

Fortunately, there were other exhibits in the same location that weren’t as freaky (sarcasm alert).

The 12th century church ruins are the remains of a Romanesque stone church. The church had an underground crypt, a very rare element in Nordic churches. Such crypts have normally had a cultic function in connection with saint worship and functioned as a place of pilgrimage.

As luck would have it, they kept the “saint” around.

And they gave him/her a few companions.

Nevermore… moving on to a happier little bird in another exhibit. I loved the shadows. It is part of the series Twelve Stories by Nils Aas.

After all that, I moved outdoors and crossed the Blomsterbrua (Flower Bridge) and entered Solsiden (The Sunny Side), the trendy happening section of town that is next to the harbor.

It was quiet this morning, and after a bit I stopped for an espresso (perhaps the best I’ve ever had, and that’s saying something because I’ve had plenty.) A little place called Dromedar Kaffebar.

I bought some beans to bring home and hope to find out how to order more.

On the way back to the hotel, I found the second bridge that I was looking for (had no idea I was interested in bridges.)

Gamle Bybro (The Old Town Bridge) was first built on this site in 1681, at the same time as Kristiansten Fortress was constructed. A sentry and excise house stood at either end of the bridge. The excise house on the western side is still standing and is used as a kindergarten. The bridge and gates as they now stand were built in 1861.

From the center of the bridge is the quintessential Norwegian photo op.

On the way back, I passed through the square and said, “Hello,” to Olaf. He holds up the dove (peace), but also carries a sword. I suppose he is saying, “It’s your call.”

This is likely my last travel post for a while. I’ve got some other writing that I want to work on… I had started a dystopian novel, but Miss Avery (I hope she lives through this one) insisted that I write of Dean Anthony’s most recent adventure. Will there be a murder? Where? Who done it? Working title: The Forty-Seventh Wife. It’ll probably stick.

And, for the record, I’ll be looking over my shoulder for a while.

26 May 202426 May 2024

Travel: Trondheim 1

Some days you go to church, other days are something of a conversion experience. Today was the latter. My seat for the Mass (although they don’t call it that here.)

There were two stations to receive Communion. One on the floor, standing, and you intincted. The other was at the high altar… each person receives a small silver chalice. You go and kneel at the altar, the priest places the host in your hands, you eat, then, the deacon comes and pours a small amount of white wine in your personal chalice. If you have to guess as to which way I went, you don’t know me very well. The choir—about 40 members—were singing something, I was receiving, and… they got it right. Beautiful. Again, all in Norwegian and I didn’t understand a word, but I did know the flow. In addition, the entire service was printed in the bulletin, so I could follow along. Lovely. The choir—I’m guessing paid—was amazing.

Following the service, I went for a coffee and a cookie, then began looking around. The first is a view from the back, the second, a view from the front.

Yes. It is startling in every aspect. A few more views from different angles throughout.

I then went up. 172 steps up a very narrow, claustrophobia inducing spiral staircase and you reach the top. Spectacular. I forgot to take a picture of the staircase, so stole one from the internet. The views were amazing.

This is “perhaps” the tomb of St. Olaf. During the reformation, much was removed, so there is no certainty as to which tomb is his. Silly Lutherans. Historians will tell us that Olaf was no real saint, but don’t say that too loudly amongst these people.

A chapel in the undercroft.

I’ve just begun reading The Kingsbridge Series (Pillars of the Earth is book 3.) I thought of it when I came across this series of models, showing the evolution of the cathedral.

I also had the opportunity to see the crown jewels of Norway. You are not allowed to take pictures, so I borrowed these from the web. What I was able to see were the real thing.

There is just entirely too much to show here. I spent about six hours in the cathedral and museums and didn’t even begin to touch on it all. I hope to show more pictures later.

My attempt at artistic photography.

Now we see in a mirror dimly. There is only one who is seen clearly. One who is True. One who is Life.

26 May 202426 May 2024

Stations of the Cross

National Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway

You have to study them, but I found them absolutely fascinating.

Häkon Bleken’s Crossroads series
in Nidaros Cathedral. The Stations of the Cross is a series of pictures about the story of Jesus’ suffering and was originally created for St. Olav Cathedral in 1975.

I. Jesus Condemned to death

II. Jesus is made to carry His cross

III. Jesus falls the first time

IV. Jesus meets His sorrowful mother

V. Simon of Cyrene helps Jesus to carry His cross

VI. Veronica wipes the face of Jesus

VII. Jesus falls the second time

VIII. The women of Jerusalem weep over Jesus

IX. Jesus falls the third time

X. Jesus is stripped of His garments

XI. Jesus is nailed to the cross

XII. Jesus is raised upon the cross and dies

XIII. Jesus is taken from the cross and given to his mother

XIV. Jesus is laid in the tomb

XV. Jesus is resurrected

25 May 2024

Travel: Bergen to Trondheim 2

What an amazing trip along the coast aboard the Vesterålen.

I thankfully did not have any issues with sea sickness, but it sure feels strange being back on dry land! I’m on the third floor of a hotel and it feels as though it is rocking more than the boat. I’m guessing it’ll settle down this evening.

Just more amazing sites here.

We made a stop in Ålesund. There was a devastating fire in 1904 that destroyed most of the city.

We were back to sea at 8 p.m. for the remainder of the voyage to Trondheim.

I waited for the sun to peak out from behind the mountain on the left and then tried to catch it in the center of the valley before it went back behind the mountain on the right. It was less than a minute.

I got up at 12:30 a.m. in order to get these next photos. Learned that this is nautical twilight.

In general, the term nautical twilight refers to sailors being able to take reliable readings via well known stars because the horizon is still visible, even under moonless conditions. Absent fog or other restrictions, outlines of terrestrial objects may still be discernible, but detailed outdoor activities are likely curtailed without artificial illumination.

If I understand it correctly, when there is a nautical twilight from sunset to sunrise, it is called a white night, which this was.

A short ways off the dock in Trondheim is Munkholmen (Monk’s Island) and it has colorful history.

Munkholmen Island was Trondheim’s execution site in the Viking era. Benedictine monks built a monastery on the island in the early 11th century, probably one of the earliest monasteries in Scandinavia. In 1658 it was converted into a prison and fortress, and later a customs house. Its most famous inmate was the Danish Count Peder Griffenfeld, who spent 18 years as a prisoner there.

And then there is Trondheim.

I’ll tell more about the city tomorrow, but since I arrived at 9:45 a.m., my hotel room was not yet ready, so I made a visit to the National Cathedral where St. Olaf is buried. I want my first experience of the interior to be tomorrow at the Mass, so I wandered around the grounds. The pictures do not do it justice. I am very thankful that the reformers didn’t destroy it during their iconoclastic madness (although they did do some damage.)

The detail is stunning. Here is a closeup of one small piece.

I plan on spending most of the day here tomorrow, between the Mass, touring the church, museum, and climbing one of the towers. Hopefully there’s a quiet corner to pray the Rosary.

Fiddled with the lighting on the camera with this one.