Church of San Ignacio Chapel of Perpetual Adoration. The Blessed Sacrament was on the altar, and so had a time of adoration as well. 
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
Camino: a day in Pamplona
Pamplona is definitely a city. All day and all night you hear the sounds of horns and sirens and people. I’m looking forward to the day here, but I’m also looking forward to getting back into the country and the quieter places.
This morning’s alarm clock was brought to you by the guy walking down the street yelling at the top of his lungs. That’s OK. It was almost time to get up.
I made a quick coffee and I had a few cookies before heading off for mass. There were not many people out this early. The air was cool. I found the church pretty quick, so I stopped in and had a café con Leche and a pastry. Then I made my way back up to the church.
from the plaque out front: CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARÍA LA REAL — Pamplona Cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries over the remains of a Romanesque church. The neoclassical façade from 1799 is by Ventura Rodríguez and the interior is French Gothic.
It was a full sung, Latin mass. I didn’t understand a word but the bells helped. The sermon lasted about five minutes, and even though I couldn’t understand it, the dean of the cathedral seemed quite passionate.
Located in the center of the cathedral is The Royal Mausoleum with the death statues of Carlos III el Noble and his wife Leonor de Trastamara, Monarchs of Navarre. This sculpture is a unique work of European XVth century sculpture and was carried out between 1413 and 1419 by Jehan Lome de Tournai and his craftsmen.
For those back home in Oklahoma, I found the four Evangelist and identified our favorite.
Coming out of the church, and to the south a bit, you arrive at the Townhall of Pamplona. You can follow this link to read all about the symbolism in the work.
After all that, I was ready for another café con Leche. I found a beautiful little café where I also ordered a baked scallop. I can highly recommend this tasty little treat.
I have less than 3 miles on my feet this morning, but they are already asking to be put back up again, so I headed back to the hotel to find a place to do some laundry. I started to do it myself when the gentleman cleaning the rooms interrupted me and said I could not do that because they were washing the sheets and all of that for the hotel. He said for 5€ he would do it for me and have it to my room by 10 o’clock tonight. I took him up on that offer. I’ll go back out later today, but for now I’m just going to enjoy the quiet.
I made it back out today and just wandered around a bit. I came across a beautiful garden. I had a glass of wine and some tasty little treat that I have no idea what was. If I see something that I’ve never tried before, I’ll give it a day in court. I have not been disappointed yet.
Afterward, I walked until I found a church that was open and stopped to pray my rosary. I timed it so that I would be praying while my church in Oklahoma was celebrating the mass. I think it worked out.
Tomorrow will be my longest walking day yet. Almost 15 miles. I’m going to rest my toes for a bit now and then try and get a good night’s sleep. The weather is supposed to be much cooler tomorrow and probably raining. In my opinion, that makes for good walking weather.
5.2 miles/10,023 steps. I’m not a step closer to Santiago than I was at this time yesterday. The beautiful thing, this is not a race.
Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.
Camino: Zubiri to Pamplona
I think it’s from all the downhill walking yesterday, but it feels like someone has inserted hot coals into each of my calves. Stretch. Stretch. Stretch. All shall be well. 
I made it to the top of the most recent hill. There are plenty of them here. As I started my way down I came across all these purple flowers. It struck me that Santiago is still over 450 miles away and that it’s OK to stop and smell the flowers for just a moment. It will not delay my arrival at all.
I have a new found taste for Coca-Cola. After putting in 10 miles it is the most delicious thing on the planet. As I sat there, drinking my ice cold Coca-Cola and visiting with a girl from Canada, who has a love of hockey, I looked over and there was a lady who is walking the Camino with her baby. The girl from Canada and I both felt rather ashamed at being tired. The baby was no more than three or four months old, and the momma was carrying the baby all along the way. I got nothing.
I just saw a sign that said Pamplona is about 8.3 km/5 miles. I said to myself, “Self, that is less than three times around Crosslin Park.” I’ve got to keep moving.
I don’t know how well this will come out, but it is the valley before Pamplona. It is a panoramic shot. Go ahead and say it, “Gorgeous!”
Soon afterward, I came to the church where I said my rosary for today. It was so nice and cool inside. Probably no more than about 40 people could have fit. I’m not quite sure how I got this shot but I thought it came out beautiful.
I have arrived at my hotel in Pamplona. It is the Aloha Hostel. I’m not sure that Aloha is a Spanish word. And, yes, if you thought of the movie, Hostel, when you read the name… So did I!
Now, please do not judge me. I was hungry, I was tired, and I did not want to figure out anything else. It’s also right next-door to my hotel. I had a Pepsi to go with it only because they did not serve Coca-Cola. I ordered the Alabama. When I said, “Alabama,” the girl behind the counter, looked at me and wondered what language I was speaking. I wanted to teach her how to say it properly, maybe the way Boudreaux would have said it, but I just kept my mouth shut and sat down and drank my Pepsi. The next time you’re in Pamplona I can recommend this pizza. I thought all those little yellow things were slices of garlic, but it turns out it was corn. Never had corn on a pizza before. I don’t think that’s American. 🤪
I am now in my room with my shoes and socks off and my pajamas on. It’s only 5:45 PM but I have no intentions of going anywhere else today. I’ve got my window open so I can hear the city below and they can have a beautiful Saturday night, and I will sit here and listen to them enjoying it. Tomorrow I plan on exploring the city. I’ve seen the top of the church here in town and it is amazing. I hope to go to mass there sometime tomorrow morning. That is if I wake up tomorrow morning.
16.5 miles/31,604 steps. Right now the bathroom is about four steps away and that seems like a pretty fair distance.
Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
The backyard. I did find the church, but it was closed. There was really nowhere nearby to pray, so I came back to my room and sat in the backyard. There’s worse things that could happen.
Camino: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Never once have I woken up and said to myself, “Self, why don’t we walk 33,000 steps today?” I know that some of you probably have to do this for your job, but the distance between the altar and the little place where I stand to preach there’s no more than about 20 steps at most. My feet hurt. Tomorrow, I will get up and do about the same thing. I volunteered for this. Amazing. It really is quite amazing.
On the way out this morning I noticed that one of the small chapels was open. James was there to greet the day.
From there, it was a matter of picking them up and putting them down. I actually felt stronger today. I think part of it had to do with coming down out of the altitude. Seems there’s a bit more air down here.
Did I mention that I’m listening to The Long Walk by Stephen King? I won’t spoil it for you because I know so many of you are going to want to read it now, but it is motivation to keep moving that’s for sure. I really do hope they make a movie out of this one.
In the book, there was mention of passing a cemetery, and as luck would have it…
Most of the day was spent fairly off-road. They’ve done quite a bit to make it more accessible, but there are places where the way gets quite challenging.
Compared to a few spots, that’s actually quite tame. The last 3 miles leading into Zubiri are rough. The rocks and the roots want to reach out and bite you. Just prior to this patch was a fella in a food truck. I was 10 miles in at this point and was more than willing to pay five euros for an ice cold Coca-Cola and a chocolate chip cookie. There were several who were purchasing his beers. I would not have wanted to navigate that road on even a sip of wine.
I’m resting my barking dogs at the moment, but we’ll go out in a bit and see if I can find an open church and then track down some supper. A remarkable day so far.
Zubiri is basically a bedroom community to Pamplona so there’s not a lot here. The church was locked up tighter than a bank, with a padlock and chain. The restaurants were basically bars with loud people. I stopped by the grocery store and bought a nice French loaf, some smoked meat, hard cheese, and a Toblerone bar. I sat in the dining hall with Elvis and enjoyed my meal.
Sounds like a perfect supper to me. It’s not even 6:30 PM and I am ready for bed.
I did not sleep well last night. My room was on the third floor… Top floor… And the windows did not open. It was hot. Tonight will be better.
16.5 miles / 34,200 steps
Camino: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles
The kindness of strangers. Be thankful and give them thanks. It is as though they want you to succeed.
When I woke up this morning, I was a bit nervous to move. I was afraid that yesterday I might’ve hurt something or pulled something or was just too dang tired to move. Everything seems to be in order. Another thing to give thanks for. 
6 miles in. Nothing but climbing. A verse to meditate upon… Do not worry about tomorrow for today has enough concerns of its own.… Do not look up the hill. Just keep putting one foot in front of another. Just look a couple of feet ahead. If you look up the hill, you begin to think you won’t make it. If you look a couple of feet of head, that’s as far as you have to go. And then… A couple of more feet. You’ll make it.
I was very nervous about this stage. A climb of 3000 feet. The smartest thing I did was to have my backpack shipped ahead. I have a small day pack that I added, my water, wallet, and a few other necessities and called it good. Bottom line: according to everything I’ve heard and read, I have made it through my most difficult day. From here it’s not easy, but it’s not as hard. I’ll keep you posted on that one.
Along the way, almost at the top, and the small chapel at the top.
I was ever so happy to see the top of the church in Roncesvalles.
To be only slightly indelicate, I don’t think I’ve sweated this much in my life. It was only 51° but my goodness. Therefore, today is laundry day. hoping the sun will dry everything nicely.
After praying my Rosary, I did some walking about. Came to the tomb of Sancho VII the Strong of Navarre who died in 1234 ad. The Chains of Navarre are a part of the coat of arms of Navarre. Legend has it that the Caliph of the Moors had a human shield of slaves that were chained together. Sancho’s army attacked the Moors, broke the chains of the slaves, and the Caliph fled.
I did find THE sign. Apparently it was placed many years ago, when no one was entirely sure exactly how far it was. The new marker is probably correct. I think by saying Santiago is 790km from here is a bit like saying, So-and-So went out in the desert with God for 50 years. The 50 years isn’t exact, but is really good way of saying, “No one is certain how long So-and-So was out there, but it was quite a long time.” No one is entirely certain how far Santiago is, but it is going to take you a while to get there.
After my wanderings, I stopped for a large water at the local pub. There are many pilgrims mingling, meeting, and talking, but so far, I really haven’t had an interest in any of it. When I was in the place of the king, I was the only one there, and it was so very quiet and peaceful. I guess for now, I’m enjoying walking and praying and being at peace with the world and myself. Maybe later.
Confession is available in ten minutes, then a Mass at 8 p.m. followed by the blessing of pilgrims. Be back later. It will be an early night, that is for certain.
I didn’t understand a word, but the Mass was beautiful and they called all the pelegrinos forward and gave us a blessing. The confession bit… the schedule was off, so I did not get to make confession before Mass, but a lovely older priest took the time afterward to hear my confession. Only thing, he did not speak English, but we both decided that God would hear and know and that it would be good. It was. He then insisted on giving me communion again from the reserved Sacrament.
11.4 miles today / 21,800 steps. Tomorrow, I walk to Zubiri. Map says that it is 13.26 miles.
Camino: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos
Last night…well, of course I had to watch it!
9:40am. Today… I begin.
11:45am. Arrived in Arnéguy. 5.5 miles. Be very careful of traffic for that first mile coming out of SJPDP. At times, there is no shoulder and many fast moving cars. If not for the kindness of strangers, I would currently be climbing a steep hill, only to have to backtrack. Instead, I’m having a brief rest, café, and lite second breakfast (Nutella filled croissant.) Less than three miles to Valcarlos. A good portion of this section will be off road.
1:53pm. Valcarlos. The last hill coming in is penance for a multitude of sins.
The backpack is designed so that the belt across the waist places much of the weight on the hips. That way you are not carrying the weight on your shoulders. It’s a good thing. The only problem is that as a 59-year-old male… well… I ain’t got no hips.
I do believe that all of my preparation and walking leading up to this has prepared me nicely for about 95% of the Camino. However, it did not prepare me for today which means I will definitely not be prepared for tomorrow. I’ll sort it out, but I do confess that I had one of those “What the hell was I thinking?” moments. I somehow suspect that it will not be my last.
In my humble opinion, prep all you want, but nothing gets you ready for the Pyrenees.
Went for a short walk here in town and found a nice glass of wine. Afterward I went and prayed my rosary and then returned to my room. The hostess, Alejandra, here at Etexeale is listening to Aguas de Março (feat. Fernanda Takai). I asked Siri to identify the song for me. It was brilliant. I feel like I’m in some foreign movie and I love those. She is also cooking and I don’t know what’s for supper tonight, but it smells absolutely brilliant. The long and arduous walk up today is almost forgotten. My body seems to be remembering it a little bit and may remind me of it in the morning, but for now… Right as rain.
For the record, I did hire a service to carry the pack to Roncesvalles. It was just too intimidating. The distance is about the same as today, but the climb… Oy! It was a great relief to make that decision.
In my walking about I came across a little bit of local history. This is a Basque thing.
Not for to go now…😳
Dinner is almost ready. We’re now being serenaded by La Maison Près / De La Fontaine.
I cannot recommend this place enough. Dinner: a salad with pickled carrots and onions on a bed of lettuce with her own balsamic olive oil dressing. Followed by a traditional Spanish stew of potatoes, artichokes, and sausage and a light tomato sauce. Dessert consisted of a slice of hard French cheese (almost crunchy), a thin slice of a thick Quince jelly, and walnuts–Membrillo. A traditional Spanish dessert. If I had known this meal was waiting at the end of the road today, the road would have been much shorter.
It’s time for a shower, and to put my feet up for a little while. I hope you all have a blessed evening.
Only 9.8 miles / 18,900 steps.
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
Eglise Notre-Dame de l’Assomption
The church was closed so I had to sit out outside amongst all these people, long since gone. I found a marker on an outside wall… Anno 1030.
Camino: A Day in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
It is 43° F and raining. Any other time and place, that would be a perfect excuse to stay at home and stay warm. However, being here, that’s really not an option. Today I can sleep late, but tomorrow they are going to kick me out come rain or shine. Though nuanced with gray clouds, the perfectly blue sky is still out there. Time to go enjoy it and live a life. FYI: cod stew makes for some very wild dreams.
Flashback to trip to Lisbon… I washed clothes last night and with great apprehension, I felt them today. No hairdryer required.
I have spent the day walking around. It rained most of the morning and part of the afternoon but the sun is trying to come out now. I prayed my rosary at a beautiful church, and then had a delicious lunch at Comme à la Maison. Very quaint little restaurant. Five stars in my book.
Afterwards I made my way up the hill a short ways to the pilgrims office. Had to wait in line for about half an hour, but it was a cheerful place. As large group from South Korea in front of me. Everyone was quite excited.
I then made my way indoors…
And there it is. My first stamp.
Each day on the Camino, a pilgrim must receive a stamp in their “Credencial del Peregrino” as proof they have been there. it is the pilgrims passport. Note to self: don’t lose it!
I’m going to be still and quiet for the rest of the day. Tomorrow morning I start walking. My first stop isn’t too far and not that difficult—Valcarlos— about 7 miles. It will be one of my shorter days, but Thursday is all uphill. There is no need to worry about that today though. 
Candle in a Cave 