Cathedral – Candle in a Cave

I’ve grown accustomed to having my breakfast downstairs at the restaurant here in the hotel. (I think I forgot to mention that I am staying at the Tosei Hotel Cocone. As this is my only experience with a hotel in Japan, I would have to give this one five stars. Very comfortable, very clean, and the people are very kind.) The breakfast is buffet style, and I generally make two trips. Round one is typically breakfast food with a few unusual items, including Ramen noodles with grilled mackerel and onion. Round two… Now that’s something very different.

What we have here is a bowl of rice with three types of sushi: salmon, salmon roll, and fatty tuna. It just makes me happy. Never what I have thought of having sushi for breakfast, but they offer it and I eat it. I get plenty of protein, so I have plenty of energy to see me through the day.

It was only a five-minute walk to the first stop of the day, the Tsukiji Hongan-ji Buddhist Temple.

Tsukiji Hongwanji is a Buddhist temple belonging to the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha denomination, also known as Shin Buddhism, which was founded by the monk Shinran (1173-1263) and whose head temple is Hongwanji (Nishi Hongwanji) in Kyoto.

The temple has been destroyed by fire or earthquake several times, and the current structure was built in 1934.

The interior is rather magnificent and ornate. The photographs are not great as you are not allowed to get very close.

I’m sure some will mark this up as my Christian bias, but I just didn’t “feel” all that much while I was there. I got a sense of the peace and the calm (with the exception of all the construction that was going on) yet it did leave my spirit wanting. Am I really so narrow-minded? No. As I am certain they believe Buddha leads to the path of enlightenment; I believe that Jesus leads to the path of life. That’s an argument for another day, so I shall end this discussion with a nice glass of iced, VERY green tea.

It was really good, but I did get the impression that someone had gone out and mowed the grass and made tea from it.

It was time for my longer excursion, which took me about an hour. It was only one train ride, but it included 15 minutes of walking on both ends. All this took me to St. Mary’s Cathedral—the cathedral church of the Archdiocese of Tokyo. This is the church I mentioned in yesterday‘s post. I saw pictures of it both on the outside and the inside and wanted to visit.

When I arrived, a service was taking place, so there was time before I could enter. Fortunately, on the church grounds, there is a recreation of the grotto at Lourdes. I made good use of my time and prayed my rosary.

I really like this one…

I don’t know what kind of flower this is, but it was beautiful.

Following the service, I was allowed to enter the church and spend some time. This is where I will make confession and tell you that I am a bad person. There was a sign that said no pictures inside the cathedral, and of course, everyone there was taking pictures… very discreetly.

The building was designed by the famous Japanese architect Kenzo Tange (1913-2005). From an article…

For his Tokyo Cathedral of Saint Mary, he visited several medieval Gothic examples. “After experiencing their heaven-aspiring grandeur and ineffably mystical spaces,” he says, “I began to imagine new spaces, and wanted to create them by means of modern technology.”

I still do not know the architecture type, but I would classify it as brutalist/modern. It provides a very clear message that declares, in no uncertain terms, “The Lord is my rock!”

That is the altar at the top of the red stairs. Maybe that gives you an idea of how large the sanctuary is. If I were given the opportunity to build a church, oh yeah…

The Mary Chapel to the left of the high altar.

Following my time at the cathedral, I headed back to the hotel. Today is my last full day in Tokyo, and I must check out my 10 AM tomorrow. What this means is that today is laundry day. For those of you who remember Portugal, this will not be me doing laundry in the sink and drying it with a hair dryer. There’s a good and proper washing machine/dryer downstairs available to hotel guests. It did take me a while to figure out how to use it, but once I put my glasses on, the instructions made a bit more sense. After that’s all sorted out, I may have to go and find myself a bit more sushi. I may turn into a fish before this is over with, but it’s so darn good!

Tomorrow, we ride the bullet. The bullet train, that is! I hear it goes a little over 200 mph. That oughta be fun! I’ll keep you posted.

This is your man in Tokyo signing off.

Today, I attended Mass at the Oslo Domkirke (Cathedral), built between 1694-97, restored in 2010. As you approach from the front, you encounter the massive bronze doors depicting the Beatitudes. Across the top reads “Salice er,” “Blessed are….” Just to the right of the doors is “The Devil of Oslo,” a sculpture showing a man being consumed by evil, represented by a lion and a dragon. It was created in the 12th century and found in the ruins of St. Hallvard’s Cathedra.

Entering the sanctuary, I was bit surprised. I had anticipated it would be much more austere, and although not as ornate as many of the churches I’ve seen, it was still quite ornate and beautiful.

I wanted to get up there and preach a bit, but I didn’t think they would appreciate me doing so.

The service was in Norwegian, so I again did not understand a word of it; even so, it was very edifying, and I found myself feeling immensely blessed as I left. I took a minute to visit with the Pastor who was delighted to learn that I was a priest. He stated that much of their liturgy is based on the Anglican tradition. Even though I did not understand it all, I knew parts and definitely the rhythm. It was a well-ordered service and “polite”—that was the impression for me.

I intentionally arrived an hour early so that I could pray my Rosary. I did not expect there to be a statue of Mary, but…

This was by far the most meaningful of all the Rosaries I’ve prayed on this journey. I was finally able to experience His presence more deeply. Perhaps I’m finally feeling rested and at peace instead of being rushed and pushed.

Outside the cathedral is a memorial to the 77 people who were murdered on July 22, 2011, by a domestic terrorist. The marker reads,

On 22 July 2011, an act of terrorism ended the lives of 77 persons in Norway. In a spontaneous act of solidarity, thousands of people laid down roses in front of Oslo Cathedral. Inspired by this sea of roses, artists Tobbe Malm and Tone Karlsrud initiated a project in which smiths from all over the world, survivors and others affected by the attack were invited to forge roses from iron. Iron Roses is a memorial from the people, for the people.

Iron Roses created by
Tobbe Malm and MDH Arkitekter
2019

The city is quiet today, with the exception of many tourists pulling suitcases to the train station, so I plan to open the windows of my room, read a little and continue writing on the new novel. Did I mention I was working on a new project? It’ll be quite different than what I’ve done before. The first chapter is only three sentences long: “No one claimed responsibility, and the nuclear blast left no evidence. Those who died in the initial blast and from the fallout were the fortunate ones. Those who survived lived and died in great horror.” The working title is Triskelion.

Perhaps I also forgot to mention that I have a new book coming out early fall. It is not a Father Anthony, but maybe you’ll enjoy. I think I’ve got the cover about right…

Farvel for nå.

Tag: Cathedral

Travel: Japan – Tokyo (Day 3)

Travel: Oslo 2

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