Tag: Bergen

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Travel: Bergen to Trondheim 2

What an amazing trip along the coast aboard the Vesterålen.

I thankfully did not have any issues with sea sickness, but it sure feels strange being back on dry land! I’m on the third floor of a hotel and it feels as though it is rocking more than the boat. I’m guessing it’ll settle down this evening.

Just more amazing sites here.

Norwegian Sea
Location of the picture to the left.

We made a stop in Ålesund. There was a devastating fire in 1904 that destroyed most of the city.

We were back to sea at 8 p.m. for the remainder of the voyage to Trondheim.

I waited for the sun to peak out from behind the mountain on the left and then tried to catch it in the center of the valley before it went back behind the mountain on the right. It was less than a minute.

I got up at 12:30 a.m. in order to get these next photos. Learned that this is nautical twilight.

In general, the term nautical twilight refers to sailors being able to take reliable readings via well known stars because the horizon is still visible, even under moonless conditions.  Absent fog or other restrictions, outlines of terrestrial objects may still be discernible, but detailed outdoor activities are likely curtailed without artificial illumination.

If I understand it correctly, when there is a nautical twilight from sunset to sunrise, it is called a white night, which this was.

A short ways off the dock in Trondheim is Munkholmen (Monk’s Island) and it has colorful history.

Munkholmen Island was Trondheim’s execution site in the Viking era. Benedictine monks built a monastery on the island in the early 11th century, probably one of the earliest monasteries in Scandinavia. In 1658 it was converted into a prison and fortress, and later a customs house. Its most famous inmate was the Danish Count Peder Griffenfeld, who spent 18 years as a prisoner there.

And then there is Trondheim.

I’ll tell more about the city tomorrow, but since I arrived at 9:45 a.m., my hotel room was not yet ready, so I made a visit to the National Cathedral where St. Olaf is buried. I want my first experience of the interior to be tomorrow at the Mass, so I wandered around the grounds. The pictures do not do it justice. I am very thankful that the reformers didn’t destroy it during their iconoclastic madness (although they did do some damage.)

The detail is stunning. Here is a closeup of one small piece.

I plan on spending most of the day here tomorrow, between the Mass, touring the church, museum, and climbing one of the towers. Hopefully there’s a quiet corner to pray the Rosary.

Fiddled with the lighting on the camera with this one.

That is all for now. Pray you all are staying safe back home with all the storms.

Still no need for another haircut.

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Travel: Bergen 4

One of the things I’ve wanted to do for a long time is see the fjords in Norway, and today was the day. What a glorious time aboard the Rygersol ferry from Bergen to Mostraumen.

Every trip begins somewhere and this one began pulling out of the harbor. That is the Fish Market in the center.

Once you clear the harbor, they kick the boat into high gear.

This morning when I walked outside, I decided I didn’t need a jacket. Note to self: take a jacket when traveling on the fjords. There is a very comfortable indoor compartment, but outdoors it is very windy. Saw one pair of glasses go flying off the back of the boat and I’m certain there were a few lost hats. If this happens, you’ll never see it again—the Osterfjorden reaches a depth of 2,096 feet (the deepest fjord is the Sognefjord and reaches a depth of 4,291 feet.) If the fjord is connected to the ocean, it will be saltwater, but the interior small ones are often fresh. Today, the temperature of the water was 44°.

When you reach Paddøy Island, the fjord begins to quickly narrow.

From here, the mountains begin to rise like walls along the way.

I saw several waterfalls. The two largest were at Mostraumen.

Mostraumen.

I’ve no idea what was going on, but as I was walking back to the hotel, a small military parade passed. they seem to be quite young, so perhaps it was a local school.

This is my last day in Bergen. Tomorrow, I’ll… tell you about it then. I give Bergen very high marks. Quiet, clean, and much to see. When the cruise ships show up, it can get a bit crowded with tourists, but they eventually give the all aboard signal and things settle down again.

If there is one thing I am missing about my recent travels, it is experiencing a culture that is very different from my own. Most of what I’ve experienced in Europe feels like almost any city/town at home. The smaller towns in Spain were a bit different, but still, the people… we are all westernized. I have made a mental note that future travels will be more about engaging and experiencing people/cultures that are very different from my own. Don’t think I’m being critical here. Absolutely not! I wouldn’t change a thing (except the stupid foot), it is just that the world is so full and rich, and I would like to see more than myself.

Pray you are well. I’ll see you at the next destination.

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Travel: Bergen 3

After attending the Gospel Night service on Friday, which was in Norwegian, I decided that I needed a service in English. I Googled “English Church Bergen” and was directed to Mariakirken (St. Mary’s Church.) I should have known by the name that I was going somewhere special, but had no idea.

St. Mary’s is the oldest existing building in Bergen, having been built between 1130-70. There have been renovations since, especially due to two fires, but much of the original building is intact.

The congregation is a part of the Church of England/Anglican Church in Norway. They were very welcoming.

I had to know how an Anglican congregation could be in the oldest church building in Bergen. Simple. They rent it. The city wanted there to be a weekly service held in the church, but when it was in Norwegian, it seems that anyone visiting would turn and leave. However, when they started having a CoE service in English, people stayed. Based on my observations, it is a thriving church.

There is much to see inside, but your eyes are immediately drawn to the altar (no explanation needed.)

The pictures do it no justice. It is radiant. From the Bergen website:

The alter reredos
This is the church’s oldest treasure, and can be traced to the end of the 15th century. It is North German work, probably from Lübeck. The screen is a triptych, the carving of the central panel depicting Mary and the infant Jesus. Here she is shown as the woman in Revelations:  «clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet, and upon her head a crown of twelve starts». On her right we find St Olav, above St Antony, whose intercession was held to cure the plague. On her left stands St Catharine with her sword and wheel, above St Dorothea.  On the side panels we see all the apostles except Judas, but including Paul. All bear their symbols, and hold the book of Gospel. The hinged side panels were only unfolded in high festivals, their reserve sides facing the church at all other times.

Second to the triptych is the pulpit. This is definitely not a protestant pulpit like I’ve seen in the Lutheran churches. Also, from the website:

The pulpit of St Mary’s is something of an enigma in Norwegian art history; it resembles no other pulpit in the country. It was presented to the church in 1676, by a group of prominent merchants who had their place of business on the old Hanseatic Warf (Bryggen). Who actually made it is unknown, but the use of tortoiseshell and lacquer work is foreign to this country, and would suggest a link with countries connected with East Asia, perhaps Holland. The pulpit and the stair-case are divided into panels by richly decorated columns. Here we find eight of the nine original cardinal virtues, represented by women with various attributes. Penitence with a pelican, Prudence with a snake, the naked Truth, Chasity with two turtle doves, Patience with a lamb, Hope with a dove, and part of an anchor, Faith with book and cross, and Charity with two children.

I fiddled with the color on the image below to bring out the image. It took me a minute, but determined that the astrological symbols are being depicted, revolving around the sun. This is not astrology as we know it, but an understanding of the universe (the heavens) and all that is in it. The fact that the heavens are above the preacher, while he (and, at the time, it would have been a he) stands upon the cardinal virtues, paints a rather dramatic understanding of the proclamation of the Word. Not sure that it says anything about the one proclaiming. 🤣

Throughout the church are other beautiful paintings and statues.

I tried to sort out what was being said in the text below, but was not able to, so I thought of it as the Prayers of the People. I’ll do some more on trying to translate and let you know what I come up with.

From the balcony and the side altar.

One thing I read last night about Norway said to not turn down an invitation as it is considered very rude, so when I was invited to coffee hour by the deacon, I went. Had a tasty cup of coffee and wonderful conversation with Michael, from Australia, and the Reverend Fredrik Ulseth, who was the supply priest for today. Father Fredrik preached a bold and uncompromising sermon. I liked it!

What did I do afterward? You guessed it. Returned to the Fish Market and had a yummy salmon burger. Glad I’m doing all this walking or I’d be popping buttons on my cassock when I return.

I’m looking forward to watching the youth via FaceBook at St. Matthew’s a bit later today.

A blessed Pentecost to you all!

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Travel: Bergen 2

Today, I got an early start and managed to beat many of the tour buses that drop off large crowds at the various museums and other locations. It was successful as I had several places to myself, if only for a few minutes.

It began with a stroll around the harbor to the far side.

Coming to the other side, I arrived at Bergenhus Fortress, the oldest parts date back to 1270 AD. Not my photo, but the one below shows the entire complex from the water.

The stone building on the left is Haakon’s Hall and the stone building on the far right is Rosenkrantz Tower. I toured the tower first and only banged my head once on the very low doorways.

Spiral staircase from the basement to the top floor.
The Dungeon.
The Oratory which served as the king’s private chapel. The stained glass window is not original.
A fun little hallway that I wanted to travel down, but was blocked off.
Fireplace in the Gentleman’s Hall.
The fortress is the location of many battles.

One of the sea battles, The Battle of Vågan (1665), was initiated by the English who were attempting to rob Dutch ships that were harbored in Bergen. The King of Norway had decided to side with the English, but due to a lack of communication, the commander in the area sided with the Dutch. The English were defeated, but lost no ships.

Clothing/personal armor at the time.

I then made my way into Haakon’s Hall. It has seen quite extensive renovation following an incident in 1944, when a ship laden with 135 tons of dynamite exploded in the harbor. This event was the largest accident in Norway during the WWII.

When I walked in, I was the only one there.

In 1969, Queen Elizabeth II and family visited King Olav and family (perhaps it was to make up for that little incident back in 1665.)

Christ Church, which was located on the grounds of the fortress, was torn down to make room for the needs of the fortress. However, the church contained the relics of the Patron Saint of Bergen, Sunniva.

THE LEGEND OF ST. SUNNIVA
According to the saga, Sunniva was a Christian princess who lived in Ireland in the mid-9th century. To avoid marriage with a heathen King, she set sail with a small entourage and eventually landed on Selja, an island in Nordfjord. In answer to her prayers for exemption from prosecution for her Christian faith, God let boulders be placed to seal off the mouth of the cave in which she and her entourage were sheltered. When her body was discovered unscathed a long time later, she was looked upon as a sacred being and was enshrined in 996. In, 1170 this shrine was moved to the large Christ Church in Bergen. She was revered as the town’s guardian saint.

A pretty flower after a sad story. Google tells me that this is a variety of Rhododendron.

And a tasty meal after a long walk. Brother likes his seafood, so I stopped at the Bergen Fish Market, which is lined with various vendors selling prepared and fresh caught fish. Believe it or not, it didn’t smell fishy at all.

The items on the first plate you’ll likely recognize, but that second one, I’m guessing not—Minke Whale. Yep. I ate whale meat, and before you lose your conservationist dang mind, the common Minke has a very healthy population and is considered a “least concerned” species, meaning it is still plentiful in the wild. It is also quite tasty.

How did I end up eating whale meat after that first plate? Well, I thought about getting it first, but then decided against it. Go with what you know on this one, I said to myself. Then, as I was enjoying what I know, I remembered Anthony Bourdain, and then I remembered his quote that everyone knows…

Eat at a local restaurant tonight. Get the cream sauce. Have a cold pint at 4 o’clock in a mostly empty bar. Go somewhere you’ve never been. Listen to someone you think may have nothing in common with you. Order the steak rare. Eat an oyster. Have a negroni. Have two. Be open to a world where you may not understand or agree with the person next to you, but have a drink with them anyways. Eat slowly. Tip your server. Check in on your friends. Check in on yourself. Enjoy the ride.

If you are given the opportunity, try the reindeer, the octopus, and the whale meat. It is all rich in the other person’s heritage and understanding of the world. It is a way of entering into the depths of creation. Also, I haven’t been disappointed yet! Although, I’m still afraid of the sea urchin, but someday… yes, you squishy little yellow snotty looking thing, you and me have a date.

It is 8:30 a.m. back home. Pray you all have a great day.

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Travel: Bergen 1

If you happen to be visiting Bergen on May 17, Norway’s Constitution Day celebration (and a national holiday), you should know that at 7 AM, every church bell in town will begin to ring, and then, in the midst of it, there is a canon salute. I have not yet seen the canon, but from the sound of it, it is quite large. It’s an interesting way to be woken up.

Most of the downtown area is blocked off and there are people everywhere. When I was in Oslo, I went to the opera. I had a button down shirt and, although some were dressed up, I felt like I was dressed appropriately. Today, I felt severely underdressed. Many wore casual clothes, but at least half the men were in their Sunday best, and most women were in dresses. For the women (and some of the men), there were some who were in Bunad, traditional Norwegian folk dress. According to visitnorway.com, there are about 450 different Bunads in the country, and “the embroidery and design of a bunad differs from village to village, so you can tell by their bunad where a person comes from, or where they descend from.”

There was something for everyone, from food to music, and it was all happening at once.

The harbor was busy as well, but it was these massive boats that caught my attention there.

They are designed for handling the anchors of deep water oil rigs and other ocean construction.

Just an observation: in the USA, we will put the flag on anything—shoes, socks, shower curtains, underwear, you name it. Here… no. Many are carrying small flags and there are others that hang from windows, but their flag is not worn. I suppose we all show respect in different ways. An interesting study is on American’s fascination/obsession with our flag (I’m not saying it is wrong! Just an observation.)

Sometimes you come across something you would just like to know more about. Taking a sidewalk that led through an underpass, I came across this image.

I learned that it is by the street artist TÖDDEL who operates in southern Norway. Perhaps I should have known who was pictured, but… it is Alexei Navalny (Russian opposition leader who was recently murdered by Putin and his gang.) It is based on this image or one similar.

Alexei and his wife, Yulia, had their own sign language that was developed during his multiple court appearances. In the picture, he clearly only has eyes for her. “Never Give Up,” even in the most difficult of situations.

I also later came upon this one, but don’t know anything about it other than I liked it.

Finally, this evening I attended the Gospelnight at Johanneskirken (St. John’s Church.) A

Norwegian Lutheran blended (contemporary/traditional) Eucharist service. Not my thing. Too Loud. Packed with young people. Yeah, Fr. John, complain all you want, but it was packed and they really seemed to enjoy being there. Again, not a clue as to what was being said, but I did know certain parts of the liturgy.

Perhaps the most disorienting point was when a young Asian girl, dressed in full Norwegian folk dress, got up and sang a solo. That bit was fine, but she sounded like Dolly Parton! My brain couldn’t keep it all straight.

Again, this may not be a service that I would attend regularly, but church attendance in Norway is 2%, which means they are doing whatever is necessary to bring people to the Good News. As I could not understand the pastor’s message, I prayed while she preached, that it might be received by those in attendance.

On the way back to my hotel, I saw the sun setting behind the church that is just up the street. I know where I’ll be attending on Sunday.

The traditional greeting on May 17 in Norway is “Gratulerer med dagen!” It means, “Congratulations on the day,” or “Happy Birthday.”

Happy Birthday, y’all! Hope your day is blessed.

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Travel: Oslo to Bergen

I don’t know what I expected to see today, but snow was not really on the radar. These are a few of the pictures I took while on a seven hour train ride from Oslo to Bergen.

Two shots—in the words of Professor McGonagall—were pure dumb luck.

Through a crack in the rocks (unfortunately, catching part of my reflection on the inside of the window)…

And La Bella La Luna…

After arriving and checking in at the hotel, I went out in search of food. I succeeded! Stefano Restaurant, just a few doors down from my hotel.

For starters, I had the Scamorza alla Brace (Fried smoked cheese, green apple, honey and balsamic vinegar.)

Followed this up with Gnocchi all Sorrentina (Potato-pasta pillows with tomato sauce and mozzarella.) You just cut that little pastry open and all that yummy cheesy gnocchi goodness is inside (sauce was like the best tomato basil soup you’ve ever had.)

I was all in at this point, so added the Tiramisu.

Yeah, that little sprig of mint had to go. With the chocolate… Bleh, but not enough for me to lower my opinion of this restaurant. I’ll be going back to try the pizza, which looked amazing.

Tomorrow is Constitution Day in Norway (think July 4th), and the entire country shuts down. It is celebrated with children’s parades and other events. I’m sure I’ll get out for a bit and see what it is all about.

Hope you all have a tremendous day.

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