Church of San Ignacio Chapel of Perpetual Adoration. The Blessed Sacrament was on the altar, and so had a time of adoration as well. 
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
Camino: a day in Pamplona
Pamplona is definitely a city. All day and all night you hear the sounds of horns and sirens and people. I’m looking forward to the day here, but I’m also looking forward to getting back into the country and the quieter places.
This morning’s alarm clock was brought to you by the guy walking down the street yelling at the top of his lungs. That’s OK. It was almost time to get up.
I made a quick coffee and I had a few cookies before heading off for mass. There were not many people out this early. The air was cool. I found the church pretty quick, so I stopped in and had a café con Leche and a pastry. Then I made my way back up to the church.
from the plaque out front: CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARÍA LA REAL — Pamplona Cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries over the remains of a Romanesque church. The neoclassical façade from 1799 is by Ventura Rodríguez and the interior is French Gothic.
It was a full sung, Latin mass. I didn’t understand a word but the bells helped. The sermon lasted about five minutes, and even though I couldn’t understand it, the dean of the cathedral seemed quite passionate.
Located in the center of the cathedral is The Royal Mausoleum with the death statues of Carlos III el Noble and his wife Leonor de Trastamara, Monarchs of Navarre. This sculpture is a unique work of European XVth century sculpture and was carried out between 1413 and 1419 by Jehan Lome de Tournai and his craftsmen.
For those back home in Oklahoma, I found the four Evangelist and identified our favorite.
Coming out of the church, and to the south a bit, you arrive at the Townhall of Pamplona. You can follow this link to read all about the symbolism in the work.
After all that, I was ready for another café con Leche. I found a beautiful little café where I also ordered a baked scallop. I can highly recommend this tasty little treat.
I have less than 3 miles on my feet this morning, but they are already asking to be put back up again, so I headed back to the hotel to find a place to do some laundry. I started to do it myself when the gentleman cleaning the rooms interrupted me and said I could not do that because they were washing the sheets and all of that for the hotel. He said for 5€ he would do it for me and have it to my room by 10 o’clock tonight. I took him up on that offer. I’ll go back out later today, but for now I’m just going to enjoy the quiet.
I made it back out today and just wandered around a bit. I came across a beautiful garden. I had a glass of wine and some tasty little treat that I have no idea what was. If I see something that I’ve never tried before, I’ll give it a day in court. I have not been disappointed yet.
Afterward, I walked until I found a church that was open and stopped to pray my rosary. I timed it so that I would be praying while my church in Oklahoma was celebrating the mass. I think it worked out.
Tomorrow will be my longest walking day yet. Almost 15 miles. I’m going to rest my toes for a bit now and then try and get a good night’s sleep. The weather is supposed to be much cooler tomorrow and probably raining. In my opinion, that makes for good walking weather.
5.2 miles/10,023 steps. I’m not a step closer to Santiago than I was at this time yesterday. The beautiful thing, this is not a race.
Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
Basílica de la Trinidad de Arte. I actually stopped about an hour before I arrived at my final location. This church was built in the 12th century, although it has been renovated extensively since then. It’s quite small but beautiful. It was also about 20° cooler in there than it was outside.
The picture is not mine, but there is a bridge that crosses the river right there at the church.
Camino: Zubiri to Pamplona
I think it’s from all the downhill walking yesterday, but it feels like someone has inserted hot coals into each of my calves. Stretch. Stretch. Stretch. All shall be well. 
I made it to the top of the most recent hill. There are plenty of them here. As I started my way down I came across all these purple flowers. It struck me that Santiago is still over 450 miles away and that it’s OK to stop and smell the flowers for just a moment. It will not delay my arrival at all.
I have a new found taste for Coca-Cola. After putting in 10 miles it is the most delicious thing on the planet. As I sat there, drinking my ice cold Coca-Cola and visiting with a girl from Canada, who has a love of hockey, I looked over and there was a lady who is walking the Camino with her baby. The girl from Canada and I both felt rather ashamed at being tired. The baby was no more than three or four months old, and the momma was carrying the baby all along the way. I got nothing.
I just saw a sign that said Pamplona is about 8.3 km/5 miles. I said to myself, “Self, that is less than three times around Crosslin Park.” I’ve got to keep moving.
I don’t know how well this will come out, but it is the valley before Pamplona. It is a panoramic shot. Go ahead and say it, “Gorgeous!”
Soon afterward, I came to the church where I said my rosary for today. It was so nice and cool inside. Probably no more than about 40 people could have fit. I’m not quite sure how I got this shot but I thought it came out beautiful.
I have arrived at my hotel in Pamplona. It is the Aloha Hostel. I’m not sure that Aloha is a Spanish word. And, yes, if you thought of the movie, Hostel, when you read the name… So did I!
Now, please do not judge me. I was hungry, I was tired, and I did not want to figure out anything else. It’s also right next-door to my hotel. I had a Pepsi to go with it only because they did not serve Coca-Cola. I ordered the Alabama. When I said, “Alabama,” the girl behind the counter, looked at me and wondered what language I was speaking. I wanted to teach her how to say it properly, maybe the way Boudreaux would have said it, but I just kept my mouth shut and sat down and drank my Pepsi. The next time you’re in Pamplona I can recommend this pizza. I thought all those little yellow things were slices of garlic, but it turns out it was corn. Never had corn on a pizza before. I don’t think that’s American. 🤪
I am now in my room with my shoes and socks off and my pajamas on. It’s only 5:45 PM but I have no intentions of going anywhere else today. I’ve got my window open so I can hear the city below and they can have a beautiful Saturday night, and I will sit here and listen to them enjoying it. Tomorrow I plan on exploring the city. I’ve seen the top of the church here in town and it is amazing. I hope to go to mass there sometime tomorrow morning. That is if I wake up tomorrow morning.
16.5 miles/31,604 steps. Right now the bathroom is about four steps away and that seems like a pretty fair distance.
Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
The backyard. I did find the church, but it was closed. There was really nowhere nearby to pray, so I came back to my room and sat in the backyard. There’s worse things that could happen.
Camino: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Never once have I woken up and said to myself, “Self, why don’t we walk 33,000 steps today?” I know that some of you probably have to do this for your job, but the distance between the altar and the little place where I stand to preach there’s no more than about 20 steps at most. My feet hurt. Tomorrow, I will get up and do about the same thing. I volunteered for this. Amazing. It really is quite amazing.
On the way out this morning I noticed that one of the small chapels was open. James was there to greet the day.
From there, it was a matter of picking them up and putting them down. I actually felt stronger today. I think part of it had to do with coming down out of the altitude. Seems there’s a bit more air down here.
Did I mention that I’m listening to The Long Walk by Stephen King? I won’t spoil it for you because I know so many of you are going to want to read it now, but it is motivation to keep moving that’s for sure. I really do hope they make a movie out of this one.
In the book, there was mention of passing a cemetery, and as luck would have it…
Most of the day was spent fairly off-road. They’ve done quite a bit to make it more accessible, but there are places where the way gets quite challenging.
Compared to a few spots, that’s actually quite tame. The last 3 miles leading into Zubiri are rough. The rocks and the roots want to reach out and bite you. Just prior to this patch was a fella in a food truck. I was 10 miles in at this point and was more than willing to pay five euros for an ice cold Coca-Cola and a chocolate chip cookie. There were several who were purchasing his beers. I would not have wanted to navigate that road on even a sip of wine.
I’m resting my barking dogs at the moment, but we’ll go out in a bit and see if I can find an open church and then track down some supper. A remarkable day so far.
Zubiri is basically a bedroom community to Pamplona so there’s not a lot here. The church was locked up tighter than a bank, with a padlock and chain. The restaurants were basically bars with loud people. I stopped by the grocery store and bought a nice French loaf, some smoked meat, hard cheese, and a Toblerone bar. I sat in the dining hall with Elvis and enjoyed my meal.
Sounds like a perfect supper to me. It’s not even 6:30 PM and I am ready for bed.
I did not sleep well last night. My room was on the third floor… Top floor… And the windows did not open. It was hot. Tonight will be better.
16.5 miles / 34,200 steps
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles
From the website: “The high altar of the temple is watched over by the Imagen de Santa María of Roncesvalles (Image of St. Mary of Roncesvalles), dating from the 14th century, a superb Gothic sculpture in silver-covered wood and decorated in gold.” St. James is there with her as is her crucified Son.
Camino: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles
The kindness of strangers. Be thankful and give them thanks. It is as though they want you to succeed.
When I woke up this morning, I was a bit nervous to move. I was afraid that yesterday I might’ve hurt something or pulled something or was just too dang tired to move. Everything seems to be in order. Another thing to give thanks for. 
6 miles in. Nothing but climbing. A verse to meditate upon… Do not worry about tomorrow for today has enough concerns of its own.… Do not look up the hill. Just keep putting one foot in front of another. Just look a couple of feet ahead. If you look up the hill, you begin to think you won’t make it. If you look a couple of feet of head, that’s as far as you have to go. And then… A couple of more feet. You’ll make it.
I was very nervous about this stage. A climb of 3000 feet. The smartest thing I did was to have my backpack shipped ahead. I have a small day pack that I added, my water, wallet, and a few other necessities and called it good. Bottom line: according to everything I’ve heard and read, I have made it through my most difficult day. From here it’s not easy, but it’s not as hard. I’ll keep you posted on that one.
Along the way, almost at the top, and the small chapel at the top.
I was ever so happy to see the top of the church in Roncesvalles.
To be only slightly indelicate, I don’t think I’ve sweated this much in my life. It was only 51° but my goodness. Therefore, today is laundry day. hoping the sun will dry everything nicely.
After praying my Rosary, I did some walking about. Came to the tomb of Sancho VII the Strong of Navarre who died in 1234 ad. The Chains of Navarre are a part of the coat of arms of Navarre. Legend has it that the Caliph of the Moors had a human shield of slaves that were chained together. Sancho’s army attacked the Moors, broke the chains of the slaves, and the Caliph fled.
I did find THE sign. Apparently it was placed many years ago, when no one was entirely sure exactly how far it was. The new marker is probably correct. I think by saying Santiago is 790km from here is a bit like saying, So-and-So went out in the desert with God for 50 years. The 50 years isn’t exact, but is really good way of saying, “No one is certain how long So-and-So was out there, but it was quite a long time.” No one is entirely certain how far Santiago is, but it is going to take you a while to get there.
After my wanderings, I stopped for a large water at the local pub. There are many pilgrims mingling, meeting, and talking, but so far, I really haven’t had an interest in any of it. When I was in the place of the king, I was the only one there, and it was so very quiet and peaceful. I guess for now, I’m enjoying walking and praying and being at peace with the world and myself. Maybe later.
Confession is available in ten minutes, then a Mass at 8 p.m. followed by the blessing of pilgrims. Be back later. It will be an early night, that is for certain.
I didn’t understand a word, but the Mass was beautiful and they called all the pelegrinos forward and gave us a blessing. The confession bit… the schedule was off, so I did not get to make confession before Mass, but a lovely older priest took the time afterward to hear my confession. Only thing, he did not speak English, but we both decided that God would hear and know and that it would be good. It was. He then insisted on giving me communion again from the reserved Sacrament.
11.4 miles today / 21,800 steps. Tomorrow, I walk to Zubiri. Map says that it is 13.26 miles.
Prayed today’s Rosary at…
Parroquia De Santiago
It is difficult to find a church that is open. I suspect most of the problem is related to the shortage of clergy and the decline of Christianity in Europe. it did not stop me from praying. I sat outside and enjoyed the cool breeze.
Candle in a Cave 