Please comment below. When I return, we’ll combine some of your journal entries with mine and produce a printed journal of our adventure.
WEEK FIVE PROMPT
If I say, “Blue,” each person will have their own understanding of what color of blue I’m referring to.
In the same way, language is an interpretation of God and, therefore, each person’s understanding is different. If I say, “God,” everyone will have a nuanced understanding of what I am saying (don’t believe me, try it amongst your friends.) However, there is a TRUTH to God that is beyond the limits of language. Beyond the words, how and where do you experience God?
I had in mind the service in Norwegian today. I did not understand a word, but I walked away smiling and feeling blessed.
Today, I attended Mass at the Oslo Domkirke (Cathedral), built between 1694-97, restored in 2010. As you approach from the front, you encounter the massive bronze doors depicting the Beatitudes. Across the top reads “Salice er,” “Blessed are….” Just to the right of the doors is “The Devil of Oslo,” a sculpture showing a man being consumed by evil, represented by a lion and a dragon. It was created in the 12th century and found in the ruins of St. Hallvard’s Cathedra.
Entering the sanctuary, I was bit surprised. I had anticipated it would be much more austere, and although not as ornate as many of the churches I’ve seen, it was still quite ornate and beautiful.
I wanted to get up there and preach a bit, but I didn’t think they would appreciate me doing so.The box on the left is reserved for the Royal Family.
The service was in Norwegian, so I again did not understand a word of it; even so, it was very edifying, and I found myself feeling immensely blessed as I left. I took a minute to visit with the Pastor who was delighted to learn that I was a priest. He stated that much of their liturgy is based on the Anglican tradition. Even though I did not understand it all, I knew parts and definitely the rhythm. It was a well-ordered service and “polite”—that was the impression for me.
I intentionally arrived an hour early so that I could pray my Rosary. I did not expect there to be a statue of Mary, but…
This was by far the most meaningful of all the Rosaries I’ve prayed on this journey. I was finally able to experience His presence more deeply. Perhaps I’m finally feeling rested and at peace instead of being rushed and pushed.
Outside the cathedral is a memorial to the 77 people who were murdered on July 22, 2011, by a domestic terrorist. The marker reads,
On 22 July 2011, an act of terrorism ended the lives of 77 persons in Norway. In a spontaneous act of solidarity, thousands of people laid down roses in front of Oslo Cathedral. Inspired by this sea of roses, artists Tobbe Malm and Tone Karlsrud initiated a project in which smiths from all over the world, survivors and others affected by the attack were invited to forge roses from iron. Iron Roses is a memorial from the people, for the people.
Iron Roses created by Tobbe Malm and MDH Arkitekter 2019
I saw this part by accident. Haunting.
The city is quiet today, with the exception of many tourists pulling suitcases to the train station, so I plan to open the windows of my room, read a little and continue writing on the new novel. Did I mention I was working on a new project? It’ll be quite different than what I’ve done before. The first chapter is only three sentences long: “No one claimed responsibility, and the nuclear blast left no evidence. Those who died in the initial blast and from the fallout were the fortunate ones. Those who survived lived and died in great horror.” The working title is Triskelion.
Perhaps I also forgot to mention that I have a new book coming out early fall. It is not a Father Anthony, but maybe you’ll enjoy. I think I’ve got the cover about right…
After about a 1 mile walk, I arrived at the Nasjonalmuseet, The National Museum.  It is a collection of over 400,000 pieces and holds many of the national treasures of Norway.  I was drawn to the religious art (big surprise there), but there were many other pieces that I enjoyed.
This is “The Vicar and Moses.” Apparently, Moses was not impressed with the Vicar’s preaching as he fell asleep. Lavik by Moonlight / Johan Christian Dahl. Landscapes bathed in moonlight are full of atmosphere and mystery. Such scenes are popular in 19 century painting and are one of Dahl’s specialities. The painting depicts the harbour town of Larvik on the Oslofjord, with an emphasis on shipping trade and the lumber industry. People appear small in relation to nature.I forgot to take a picture of the plaque of this one, but I liked it so you get to see it. Abbot Reading by Martinus RørbyeJudas Iscariot by Ellif Peterssen. I was very pleased with the way this photo came out. In the museum, Judas was so dark that you could barely see him. I guess the camera setting brightened  him up a bit.The Expulsion from Paradise by Hans Heyerdahl. I’m not even going to tell you the name of this one. You already know. It is by Harriet BackerThe Angel Touching the Water in the Pool of Bethesda by Joakim Skovgaard. This and the one of the expulsion from the garden interested me because it’s not something you normally see in a painting. At least I haven’t. 
My feet were tired at this point, so I sat down in front of the painting below and just enjoyed it. After a few minutes, I noticed the seagull down in the bottom right corner. There were actually two of them. The painting is Fresh Breeze on the Norwegian Coast by Hans Gude.
“Sunlight is breaking through the clouds and reflecting on the water. Does it warm the fishermen? Boats are under full sail, while in the distance a steamer reminds us that times are changing. As a teacher and professor at German academies in Düsseldorf, Karisruhe and Berlin, Gude is important for several generations of artists.”
And then we came across this fella. This is a self portrait of Vincent van Gogh that was painted in 1889 and purchased by the museum in 1910. In 1970 it was questioned as to whether or not it was actually a van Gogh. It was confirmed in 2020. Van Gogh was in a deep state of psychosis at the time of the painting.
In the portrait, dated August 1889, the artist’s expression is lifeless and the image is dominated by a dreary and downbeat greenish-brown tone.
“The Oslo self-portrait depicts someone who is mentally ill,” the museum said. “His timid, sideways glance is easily recognisable and is often found in patients suffering from depression and psychosis.”
Van Gogh admitted himself to a small asylum in Saint-Rémy, France, in May 1889 andii was struck down by a severe psychotic episode in July that lasted for a month and a half.
The painting can be linked to a letter that the artist wrote to his brother Theo in September, about a self-portrait “attempt from when I was ill”.
Try not to be too scared by what you see next. There are many amazing pieces of art in the museum, but this is perhaps the most famous. The Scream by Edvard Munch (yes, he is a Norwegian.) It was the only painting that I saw where a security guard was posted beside it. My guess is that the recent acts of vandalism against famous pieces of art has brought this on.
And yes, I am a dork.
After coming out of the museum and allowing my eyes a few minutes to adjust, I discovered that I was right next to the Nobel Peace Prize Center. I enjoyed my walk-through. There were many that I knew, but I sought out my two favorites.
Narges Mohammadi from Iran was the 2023 recipient of the award. Her story is quite fascinating.
Just a few photos from my walking about.
One more from the museum. It seems fitting that it should be at the bottom of this post. The title is Hell by Gustav Vigeland. The central figure is modeled after Rodin’s Gates of Hell. Old Scratch is seen here as a thinker.
Please comment below. When I return, we’ll combine some of your journal entries with mine and produce a printed journal of our adventure.
WEEK THREE PROMPT
The curve ball in life is inevitable. There are many options to deal with them—whine, cry, wine, scream, rest, think, pray, give up, roll with it, etc., all of the above. What is your preferred method? How do you deal? Is there always a silver lining or just the pit of despair?
A two hour drive today out to the Cliffs of Moher, which are on the edge of the Burren. A beautiful scene looking up and down the coast and out over the Atlantic. There at mid-day, so the sun wasn’t quite on the cliffs at the time.
If you keep traveling in that direction, you will his the good ol’ USA.
Directly behind me from the 2nd picture above is O’Brien’s Tower, which was constructed in 1835.
For you Harry Potter fans, that cave is where Harry and Dumbledore found the locket…
To give you a perspective as to how tall the cliffs are, I’ve circled some people standing at the top. Apparently it is the place to fling yourself off if you’ve been rejected by your love. I think it would do the job.
If you ever make it to Lisdoonvarna, County Clare, I can earnestly recommend to you The Roadside Tavern. (Pictures not mine) I had the lamb, which was outstanding. I sat at the table there in the middle, although I did not line the beers up like that.
Your’s truly looking particularly windblown and in need of a shave.
The picture below is not mine, but is Devil’s Bit Mountain. The Devil’s bit is that gap in the middle.
Legend has it that Saint Patrick vanquished the devil from a cave. The devil became so infuriated that he took a bite out of the mountain. When he did, he broke a tooth. Being in pain, he spat out the mountain and his tooth. The site of the Rock of Cashel (about 22 miles south of Devil’s Bit Mountain) is the bit of the mountain and the devil’s broken tooth that was spat out. Originally the Rock of Cashel was a castle, but was later donated to the church by someone seeking favor. From there, it was transformed into a great community. It now lays in ruin, but you get an idea of what it once was.
Set on a dramatic outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale, The Rock of Cashel, iconic in its historic significance, possesses the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland. Among the monuments to be found there is a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral and a fifteenth-century Tower House.
Originally the seat of the kings of Munster, according to legend St. Patrick himself came here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity (note: this occurred in the year 432 a.d.) Brian Boru was crowned High King at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital.
In 1101 the site was granted to the church and Cashel swiftly rose to prominence as one of the most significant centres of ecclesiastical power in the country.
Apparently, she also gave considerable money.
As with all cities and castles, it was built on a hill to give a commanding view of the surrounding lands.
Cormac’s Chapel dates to the 11th century. Pictured below is the restored chapel. In the process of the restoration, beautiful frescos were discovered beneath the centuries of dirt and whitewash. Although no longer fully intact, the second image is what it is believed to have originally looked like.
After such a hard day of walking and looking, what better place to stop than a traditional Irish pub and have a very tasty Irish coffee.
I hear that the weather has been absolutely remarkable and it was again today, although a bit blustery. The foot is doing well and did not give me any grief. A very good day. Next Wednesday, I travel again. Where will I land this time?
It is no longer the Camino de Santiago, but it is the way I am going now.
The foot is doing better, although I would not set out on an 18 mile walk. It is going to take a bit more time to get back to that. For now, I am mostly content to rest it, though I feel like I’m “wasting” my sabbatical. We will see what the days ahead bring.
The sun is rising on a new day here in Ireland. Keep you posted.
Today has been a day of travel. I went from Los Arcos to Logroño. My bus was late so I missed my second bus to Madrid. There was another one at 12:45 PM and I got that one. Four hours later I arrived in Madrid. I went and found a new suitcase because I had been carrying my possessions in a bag that I found in the back room of the hotel. I gave away my hiking shoes in Los Arcos because the hikers I had were murder on my foot. The walking I did in my sandals hurt like the dickens at the beginning, but settled in after a bit. I somehow suspect that a little bit later tonight I will regret that walking. I have found some new shoes! Skechers. There were several other brands, but these are recognized. Soft on the bottom, and more importantly, soft on the top.
I have stayed in some very nice places the last several nights. However, the hotel I’m staying at in Madrid is a paradise. I’m sitting down, waiting on my octopus to be delivered for my supper. I’m thinking it’s going to be delicious although you who have issues with my mackrel during the week may not find it so appetizing.
I continue to think about many things. We really don’t change. We are who we are and we fight the battles. It doesn’t matter where you are, your demons will follow you. If you pray that those demons might release you and they remain, does that mean that you are a complete loss and destined for level nine? Or does that mean that Saint Paul heard correctly, “My grace is sufficient for thee.” Do we continue to fight against the demons? I look at the person that I am, and I wonder, is this really who God wants me to be? I can’t imagine the person that I am is satisfying to Him. We desire to be more but… all that remains is who we are…. hold that thought, supper has arrived…
I absolutely complained to the management. It was a terrible supper. The baby octopus was two days too old. Horrible. I ate it so that I would not embarrass the chef. For those of you who know that I eat mackerel out of a can, please know that this was even better, and if I could get it in a can, I would be eating it every day! Just for the record.
I see that I have mentioned this earlier, so I am just rambling now… Before I arrived at my hotel, I purchased a new suitcase and a new pair of sneakers. My foot is very appreciative of the new sneakers. The suitcase actually contains everything after the great purge. I got rid of my backpack and many of the items that I needed for the long walk. However, I was left with a small day pack, and it was bursting at the seams. It made it this far, but I think it had just about met its maker.
When I walked into the luggage store and the shoe store, they both looked at me as though I did not belong. That is something worth preaching on. However, when they realized that I could actually pay… do you remember that scene from Pretty Woman, apparently they did… they helped me out.
I have been rambling all day long. My apologies. Not great writing. However, I’ve been struggling from one place to the next and I’m just about to the place where I can stop. I need a haircut. I need a shower. I need somebody to trim my eyebrows (I can’t be that shaggy English guy!) I need about a 12 hour nap. Who doesn’t? We go too hard. We must learn to find peace and rest…………
I do not believe that we know how to breathe. I think we try so hard to prove to the world and to ourselves… What?… Something.… That we are… Important? Have relevance? Deserve to be heard?…
… Maybe we just want the world to know that we exist or existed? Maybe we are all the good thief who cries out in all desperation, “Remember me.” …… I’m talking to myself now…..
Wait! I forgot about my white crane this morning. She/he was sitting on their nest at the top of the bell tower in Los Arcos. A beautiful bird, and so very peaceful to watch. So high up that she/he did not care that we were down below observing them.
If you do not hear from me in the next six months, start searching for my body in this area of Ireland. I’ll be headed there tomorrow.
Candle in a Cave 