Camino: Estella to Los Arcos

What will it take?

The last five miles of the walk for today comes with a warning on the map: From here to Los Arcos there is hardly any shade. Remember this especially in summertime. No water fountains or any other service available. The high for today is only supposed to be 49 with a 70% chance of rain. As long as the blister doesn’t give me fits, it should be fine.

I don’t think I got one drop of rain today. It was a beautiful day and was able to take my jacket off for a while. The wind kick back up again and it got cool though. I’m now in Los Arcos.

I looked at that pointy little mountain way off in the distance, and thought to myself, “Self, I bet they make you climb it.” Well, we did not have to climb it, but it was close. 

The road was beautiful today.

I’m not sure what the crop is, but there are fields of these yellow flowers. They’re beautiful.

And then I came across these purple trees. They were only in one spot.

My feet need to rest, so I will be taking tomorrow off. I’ve got in around 54 miles in three days so I’m feeling pretty good about that. I actually built in two days off each week and I’m ready. This is a physically challenging experience.

Onacompletely different subject, I’ve been thinking about “want.” Actually, it was focused and intense thinking as I walked this morning. It seems that want is at the heart of so much sin and pain in our own lives. Those who have, want more. Those who don’t, want something. We are always wanting. It definitely ties into, “Thou shall not covet.” When we want something or many things, we lose our peace. We become so focused on IT, that we lose sight of all that we truly have. Those things that are most important. I was trying to figure out how to rid myself of want. It also plays back to that Margaret Atwood quote from a couple of days ago. When there is want/desire, there really is no peace. I’ve used it in a sermon before, and somewhere in a closet, I still have the album—The The (yeah, that’s the band name), True Happiness This Way Lies. Or, maybe, I just need to get out of my head and go visit with some other pilgrims.

16.4 miles/32,581 steps

397.08 miles to Santiago. 

Camino: Puente la Reina to Estella

Waking up this morning I find out there’s less to be concerned about. I’ve only been at it for about a week now, but I’m finding myself very much in a routine. I sleep, I have breakfast, I do the final pack on my bag, I walk, I pray, I drink lots of water, I eat when I’m hungry, I find my room, I get things ready for the next day, and I sleep. That really does sum it up. I know that I always compare things to praying the rosary. Once you figure out the mechanics of it… The Lord prayer, the Hail Mary, the Fatima prayer, etc.… once you figure out all those other things, then you are able to actually pray. It might be the same with this walk. I wonder what is next? As our minds begin to pray more deeply with the rosary, what will we learn/pray/discover/etc. as we walk ?

My opportunity to pray the rosary today was amazing. It was in the ruins of a monastery. That was an existence almost 900 years ago. The brothers were there. I could feel their prayers. I had to make myself get up and move. I would still be sitting there otherwise.

Today was really all about the walk. I think my mental self and my physical self are beginning to meet in a particular place. I think that place will allow me to move forward, but it is a challenge. I have walked more than 17 miles today, which is more than anything I’ve ever walked before. The interesting thing is, I walked that many miles yesterday as well. At some point, the body says, I’m tired!

Later…My feet hurt and there were times when I wondered what the hell I have gotten myself into.

There were still flowers along the way. I think I missed this one by a day or two, but it was still pretty.

I have joined the ranks of the blistered, and it is a crowd pleaser. As much as we do to take care of our feet, it was inevitable. All shall be well. Note to self: don’t take any detours.

This one is for my cat. I’m pretty sure The Queen would appreciate it. Len, don’t take it personal.  She really is a bitch. 

While you are here… Go into the restaurant. Sit in the bar. You will not understand anything that is being said, but it is passionate and there is life. Much life—movie life. Old men that are discussing Catch 22 or whether or not Israel should retaliate against Iran. Who is to say? The beer flows and there are smiles and they are happy. What more could a person want?…. With so many men, I think a few wives would be appreciated.

I am still considering my Facebook post from a couple of days ago. I shall renew it here.

OK, I know I put that somewhere!

Today, the best moment or timeframe was when I was praying my rosary at the monastery that had been built around 1000 years ago. There were red poppies, growing all around, and I could imagine each of them being one of those monks that had lived and prayed in that place. I kept trying to figure out where the sanctuary was located. It was hard to discern. However, you really could feel them all around you. They were there. When you prayed, you knew you were praying with them. It felt as though they were thankful to have someone new praying with them. I was glad that they chose me today.

The photo below is the best I could do today. It would have required me to climb multiple steps to get you a better picture. I was not up for it. Hopefully this one will work.

Finally, there is a story about the water near this place.…

Take care not to drink the water here, neither yourself nor your horse, for it is a deadly river! On the way to Santiago we came across two Navarrese sitting by the bank, sharpening the knives they used to flay pilgrims’ horses which had drunk the water and died. We asked them fi the water was fit to drink, and they lyingly
replied that it was, whereupon we gave it to our horses to drink. Two of them dropped dead at once and the Navarrese flayed them there and then
.

In other words, leave your pony at home!

I could be rambling tonight. Sorry. It is 9:12 PM and I need to get ready for tomorrow. I pray you are well.

Did I mention the bells? I don’t know. Oh, well.

I’m too tired to read back over this one to see if there are typos. You can point them out and I will try and correct them, otherwise… Life is better with typos.

17.6 miles/35,002 steps.

410.38 miles to Santiago. I think I will break the 400 mile barrier tomorrow. Tell that to my feet and they may come and kick you! 

The LL Bean poster child says, “Buenas noches.“

Prayed today’s Rosary at…

El Monasterio de Bargota

All that remains of this 12th century monastery are a few cut stones, and I had to walk an extra mile to get to it, but… it was as though I were surrounded by these monks from 900 years ago and we were praying as one. A beautiful place.

And the stained glass windows were lovely

Camino: Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Today’s walk will be the longest so far. Officially 14.7 miles. For the life of me, I can’t figure out why someone would put a mountain in the middle of it, but there it is–about a 1200 foot climb. I thought of the scripture that said that we could say to the mountain be uprooted and planted in the sea; however, knowing that people have been walking this way for over 1000 years I suspect that many have prayed those exact same words before me. Apparently it is God’s will that we climb… and so we climb. Therefore, seeing as how I will be winded by the time I reach the top, I’ll save my breath for a different prayer.

It is not intentional, but we all have a way of grouping up as we walk along. The first picture is looking back towards Pamplona, and the other one is looking forward towards that silly mountain. The silly mountain wasn’t too bad and the reward at the end was absolutely brilliant.

From here we climbed. It’s funny that you will pass and then be passed by the same people all along. Just depending on when you take a break or how much oxygen you need. (I can’t believe that there are people stopping to take smoke breaks! I think that would just about kill me.)

On the way up, I stopped in a small church in Zariquiegui for a few minutes—Iglesia San Andrés— and received a stamp, and was also given an olive leaf.

I only need one stamp a day, so this one will be it.

At the top we reached perhaps one of the most iconic scenes of the Camino de Santiago.

The wind was absolutely screaming up there. I have my hat crammed down on my head just so that it will not end up somewhere in the Mediterranean sea which is several hundred miles away. Looking west, the horizon just kept going.

Regarding the statues, from Jean Mitchell-Leham’s book The Lore of the Camino de Santiago: A Literary Pilgrimage: The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession. Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims. Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.

After about a total of 15 miles I finally entered town. I’m not sure who the city architects were but this is an interesting place. The more modern portion has wide streets and so on, but the older part of town where I am staying is quite unique. I’m guessing it was designed to assist in the event of an invasion.

More pictures of churches. This is where I stopped. Pray my rosary today. It was stunning. Very peaceful.

I thought I’d treat myself to a nice dinner. Ordered the Argentinian steak—A) these folks need to order some Oklahoma beef OR B) that cow was old when Charlemange was raiding the countryside—I don’t think the Argentinians would have claimed it OR C) chef needs to retake the cooking steak class.

After all that, I am in my room. Oh… My room. It is small quite nice. I’m getting used to sleeping on twin beds again. I haven’t rolled out once. And after walking umpteen miles… Who even notices?

Me lying in that twin bed dictating this post. A little too pooped even to sit up at the moment.

17.3 miles/35,599 steps.

424.04 miles to Santiago.

Journal Prompt: Week Three

Please comment below. When I return, we’ll combine some of your journal entries with mine and produce a printed journal of our adventure.

WEEK THREE PROMPT

Camino: a day in Pamplona

Pamplona is definitely a city. All day and all night you hear the sounds of horns and sirens and people. I’m looking forward to the day here, but I’m also looking forward to getting back into the country and the quieter places.

This morning’s alarm clock was brought to you by the guy walking down the street yelling at the top of his lungs. That’s OK. It was almost time to get up.

I made a quick coffee and I had a few cookies before heading off for mass. There were not many people out this early. The air was cool. I found the church pretty quick, so I stopped in and had a café con Leche and a pastry. Then I made my way back up to the church.

from the plaque out front: CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARÍA LA REAL — Pamplona Cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries over the remains of a Romanesque church. The neoclassical façade from 1799 is by Ventura Rodríguez and the interior is French Gothic.

It was a full sung, Latin mass. I didn’t understand a word but the bells helped. The sermon lasted about five minutes, and even though I couldn’t understand it, the dean of the cathedral seemed quite passionate.

Located in the center of the cathedral is The Royal Mausoleum with the death statues of Carlos III el Noble and his wife Leonor de Trastamara, Monarchs of Navarre. This sculpture is a unique work of European XVth century sculpture and was carried out between 1413 and 1419 by Jehan Lome de Tournai and his craftsmen.

For those back home in Oklahoma, I found the four Evangelist and identified our favorite.

Coming out of the church, and to the south a bit, you arrive at the Townhall of Pamplona. You can follow this link to read all about the symbolism in the work.

After all that, I was ready for another café con Leche. I found a beautiful little café where I also ordered a baked scallop. I can highly recommend this tasty little treat.

I have less than 3 miles on my feet this morning, but they are already asking to be put back up again, so I headed back to the hotel to find a place to do some laundry. I started to do it myself when the gentleman cleaning the rooms interrupted me and said I could not do that because they were washing the sheets and all of that for the hotel. He said for 5€ he would do it for me and have it to my room by 10 o’clock tonight. I took him up on that offer. I’ll go back out later today, but for now I’m just going to enjoy the quiet.

I made it back out today and just wandered around a bit. I came across a beautiful garden. I had a glass of wine and some tasty little treat that I have no idea what was. If I see something that I’ve never tried before, I’ll give it a day in court. I have not been disappointed yet.

Afterward, I walked until I found a church that was open and stopped to pray my rosary. I timed it so that I would be praying while my church in Oklahoma was celebrating the mass. I think it worked out.

Tomorrow will be my longest walking day yet. Almost 15 miles. I’m going to rest my toes for a bit now and then try and get a good night’s sleep. The weather is supposed to be much cooler tomorrow and probably raining. In my opinion, that makes for good walking weather.

5.2 miles/10,023 steps. I’m not a step closer to Santiago than I was at this time yesterday. The beautiful thing, this is not a race.

Santiago: 438.74 miles to go.

Prayed today’s Rosary at…

Basílica de la Trinidad de Arte. I actually stopped about an hour before I arrived at my final location. This church was built in the 12th century, although it has been renovated extensively since then. It’s quite small but beautiful. It was also about 20° cooler in there than it was outside.

The picture is not mine, but there is a bridge that crosses the river right there at the church.